WhitsEnd Transformation
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WhitsEnd Transformation
This is just an intro for now along with some build guidelines.
I'm into FE engines and own a 66 Cyclone GT with a 428. My daughter Ellen is 14 years old and wants an old truck for her first vehicle. I told her it had to be a Ford and had to have an FE. About a year ago, I started looking on Craigslist and along every backroad I found myself on.
I responded to a classified ad on FordFE.com and ended up buying a 1970 lwb Ranger F100 time capsule in June, 2016. The original owner had it until a few months ago and kept it garaged its entire life. At 82, he had now given up driving a longbed with manual steering and 3 on the tree. It was bought by someone that quickly ended up in cash trouble building a new house and then I stepped in.
All I have done so far is put new tires on it, service the brakes and carb and throw new plugs and wires on it. It runs and drives better than you would expect for ANY 1970 vehicle. Oh, and there is amosr zero rust on this thing. The only rust was found in both of the lower floor support brackets and the driver's side rear lower cab. Not the cab corner, but the flat panel that extends down behind the cab. The supports had accumulated clay and dirt. I assume the old guy drove a lot of dirt roads in Kentucky. The cab extension collected water after the fuel filler grommet dried and allowed water in.
No body rust. Cab mounts are perfect and not rusted. Lower cab corners are perfect. Chrome is very nice. Very straight truck with just a couple dings in the stainless trim.
Build Guidelines:
Engine will remain an FE... It may not remain a 360 with a 2 barrel, but it will remain an FE. I have an original PI intake that will likely get used and may get topped with an FITech injection setup. Heads may get replaced with Edelbrocks, simply because its not much more money than reworking old iron heads and ends up being a good diet plan. Lower end may get a 445 stroker layout. All of the engine stuff is last on the list simply because it currently runs great and my daughter doesnt need a tire thrashing animal. Truck will remain with me when she goes off to college....then all bets are off on the motor.
Power steering, front disks and IFS will be a single event upgrade in the form of the popular Crown Victoria front crossmember swap. I picked up a unit out of a 2007 today. However...Neither I nor my daughter care for the completely slammed look. The 5/8" spacer normally put on top of the frame rails will go UNDER the rails to keep the drop to a minimum of about 4.5 inches.
Rear will remain a 9". I'm a muscle car guy and a weenie Exploer rear end won't do. I'll sort out the bolt pattern issue either with axles or re-drilling. If it remains sprung with leafs, they'll at least be hung below the axle with Calvert perches. I may go with a 4 link, but that is undecided. If it gets a 4-link, it will likely get bags or adjustable springs so it can be adjusted to haul a load if needed.
Transmission may get changed to an automatic. If that is the case, a C6 would be the easiest, but I'd hate to ignore a more modern overdrive unit.
Interior will remain stock and is in very good condition. It may get some hush matt and carpeting and will absolutely be getting 3 point belts. My daughter is most concerned with the tunes situation...I'm certain that will get worked out.
A/C will be a must. I'm researching those options now.
Wheels will be sorted out once the stance is set. I'm leaning towards a decidedly truck looking setup, but something modern is not out of the question. Likely no larger than 16s and they will have a little more sidewall than most on here are used to seeing.
Wheelbase is also undecided. I originally wanted a shorty, but they are starting to look a bit toy-like to me. Again, I'll wait on this. Once lowered, if I don't think the length hurts it visually, I'll leave it.
Paint is currently not bad at all with only a couple very minor surface rust spots and the dullness that comes with age. Every panel will likely get proper attention to both sides. I'm not a fan of spending twice as much effort to make a finish look old. I get it, it's just not my thing. Currently, the whole truck is white, but a two tone may be in the cards.
Pictures will be up as soon as I get some loaded on my Photobucket account.
On edit: fuel tank to remain in the cab. Works fine for me. I don't plan on a return system and wouldn't use the space otherwise. I actually feel it's safer there than at the very back of the frame. I'm open to suggestions or reasons to move it, but until then, it stays.
I'm into FE engines and own a 66 Cyclone GT with a 428. My daughter Ellen is 14 years old and wants an old truck for her first vehicle. I told her it had to be a Ford and had to have an FE. About a year ago, I started looking on Craigslist and along every backroad I found myself on.
I responded to a classified ad on FordFE.com and ended up buying a 1970 lwb Ranger F100 time capsule in June, 2016. The original owner had it until a few months ago and kept it garaged its entire life. At 82, he had now given up driving a longbed with manual steering and 3 on the tree. It was bought by someone that quickly ended up in cash trouble building a new house and then I stepped in.
All I have done so far is put new tires on it, service the brakes and carb and throw new plugs and wires on it. It runs and drives better than you would expect for ANY 1970 vehicle. Oh, and there is amosr zero rust on this thing. The only rust was found in both of the lower floor support brackets and the driver's side rear lower cab. Not the cab corner, but the flat panel that extends down behind the cab. The supports had accumulated clay and dirt. I assume the old guy drove a lot of dirt roads in Kentucky. The cab extension collected water after the fuel filler grommet dried and allowed water in.
No body rust. Cab mounts are perfect and not rusted. Lower cab corners are perfect. Chrome is very nice. Very straight truck with just a couple dings in the stainless trim.
Build Guidelines:
Engine will remain an FE... It may not remain a 360 with a 2 barrel, but it will remain an FE. I have an original PI intake that will likely get used and may get topped with an FITech injection setup. Heads may get replaced with Edelbrocks, simply because its not much more money than reworking old iron heads and ends up being a good diet plan. Lower end may get a 445 stroker layout. All of the engine stuff is last on the list simply because it currently runs great and my daughter doesnt need a tire thrashing animal. Truck will remain with me when she goes off to college....then all bets are off on the motor.
Power steering, front disks and IFS will be a single event upgrade in the form of the popular Crown Victoria front crossmember swap. I picked up a unit out of a 2007 today. However...Neither I nor my daughter care for the completely slammed look. The 5/8" spacer normally put on top of the frame rails will go UNDER the rails to keep the drop to a minimum of about 4.5 inches.
Rear will remain a 9". I'm a muscle car guy and a weenie Exploer rear end won't do. I'll sort out the bolt pattern issue either with axles or re-drilling. If it remains sprung with leafs, they'll at least be hung below the axle with Calvert perches. I may go with a 4 link, but that is undecided. If it gets a 4-link, it will likely get bags or adjustable springs so it can be adjusted to haul a load if needed.
Transmission may get changed to an automatic. If that is the case, a C6 would be the easiest, but I'd hate to ignore a more modern overdrive unit.
Interior will remain stock and is in very good condition. It may get some hush matt and carpeting and will absolutely be getting 3 point belts. My daughter is most concerned with the tunes situation...I'm certain that will get worked out.
A/C will be a must. I'm researching those options now.
Wheels will be sorted out once the stance is set. I'm leaning towards a decidedly truck looking setup, but something modern is not out of the question. Likely no larger than 16s and they will have a little more sidewall than most on here are used to seeing.
Wheelbase is also undecided. I originally wanted a shorty, but they are starting to look a bit toy-like to me. Again, I'll wait on this. Once lowered, if I don't think the length hurts it visually, I'll leave it.
Paint is currently not bad at all with only a couple very minor surface rust spots and the dullness that comes with age. Every panel will likely get proper attention to both sides. I'm not a fan of spending twice as much effort to make a finish look old. I get it, it's just not my thing. Currently, the whole truck is white, but a two tone may be in the cards.
Pictures will be up as soon as I get some loaded on my Photobucket account.
On edit: fuel tank to remain in the cab. Works fine for me. I don't plan on a return system and wouldn't use the space otherwise. I actually feel it's safer there than at the very back of the frame. I'm open to suggestions or reasons to move it, but until then, it stays.
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Wed Jul 13, 2016 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
- Canonman67
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Some trucks in the '80s used a 9" with a 5 on 4 1/2 lug pattern. Towards the latter half I think.
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Right after purchase, on the trailer
*Links fixed, so F-U Photosuckit!!!!! I have my own file storage online now.
*Links fixed, so F-U Photosuckit!!!!! I have my own file storage online now.
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:31 pm, edited 12 times in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
In the garage
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:32 pm, edited 3 times in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Today at the yard. Daughter Ellen pleased with the CV upgrade (oily as it may be).
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:33 pm, edited 3 times in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Wow you did find a time capsule of a truck!
Interesting that you are considering less lowering with the CV crossmember by spacing it at the bottom instead of the top. I often wondered myself if that could be an option. The trailing arms might be a challenge. You might have to notch it into the bottom edge of the frame. Not impossible though.
Interesting that you are considering less lowering with the CV crossmember by spacing it at the bottom instead of the top. I often wondered myself if that could be an option. The trailing arms might be a challenge. You might have to notch it into the bottom edge of the frame. Not impossible though.
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Uni Moe: not sure I understand your comment about notching the frame for the trailing arms. If I space the module lower relative to the frame, won't they be further away as well?
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
OK, time for a quick update
First: I'll be re-posting my images once I get them transferred to my own domain.
Second: I've made some decisions on a few components and will also upload pics as available.
- The 9" rear is staying and I've had custom 2" adapters made from billet aluminum to put the wheel bolt flanges in the same plane as the CV front end and allow all 4 wheels to be the same, including bolt pattern.
- rear axle will get moved to above the leafs and the frame will get a minor notch. I do plan to keep the truck capable of towing, so that work will be done differently than many others.
- Wheels will be 17" Police Interceptor steelies with chrome centers and trim rings. Wheels will be painted 1969 Regis Red. This will be balanced by painting the cab roof in the same color. I won't do the full lower 2 tone style, just the cab roof, leaving the rest of the truck white. Wheels are brand new and made in USA. Also considering a thin Regis Red pinstripe within the black portion of the side mounding, above and below the center stainless.
- 3 speed is to be replaced with a 4r70w automatic with overdrive, controlled by a USshift4 electronic controller. Front bellhousing will be cut off and replaced with a QuickTime bell to mate to the FE.
- Carb is being replaced with throttle body EFI. Still deciding on Holley Sniper vs. FiTech. Leaning toward FiTech because the Holley unit has just started shipping and is unknown. For now, the motor will only get a new timing set, oil pump and valve seals, unless valves are sunk in the seats. Once my daughter is off to college and I inherit the truck again, the motor will be completely rebuilt at a much higher displacement than 360.
- engine accessories are coming together, but more on that later.
- I want to cover the bed with a soft tonneau, but haven't found one for these trucks that I like. I have also been toying with the idea of a red tonneau, so I may be talking to a custom boat top guy. I'd love some ideas around this from others. I've owned 2 different roll up covers from Accesscovers and love them. Unfortunately, they're a no-go for bumps.
I recently purchased an Eastwood plasma cutter capable of cutting more than 3/4", so the twin I beam removal should be straight forward.
At the moment, I have my 66 Cyclone and 60 Pontiac stored in the garage. The plan is to accumulate parts and minimize the time the truck is immobile because those cars will have to move to my other garage during the major surgery (they do NOT stay outside).
First: I'll be re-posting my images once I get them transferred to my own domain.
Second: I've made some decisions on a few components and will also upload pics as available.
- The 9" rear is staying and I've had custom 2" adapters made from billet aluminum to put the wheel bolt flanges in the same plane as the CV front end and allow all 4 wheels to be the same, including bolt pattern.
- rear axle will get moved to above the leafs and the frame will get a minor notch. I do plan to keep the truck capable of towing, so that work will be done differently than many others.
- Wheels will be 17" Police Interceptor steelies with chrome centers and trim rings. Wheels will be painted 1969 Regis Red. This will be balanced by painting the cab roof in the same color. I won't do the full lower 2 tone style, just the cab roof, leaving the rest of the truck white. Wheels are brand new and made in USA. Also considering a thin Regis Red pinstripe within the black portion of the side mounding, above and below the center stainless.
- 3 speed is to be replaced with a 4r70w automatic with overdrive, controlled by a USshift4 electronic controller. Front bellhousing will be cut off and replaced with a QuickTime bell to mate to the FE.
- Carb is being replaced with throttle body EFI. Still deciding on Holley Sniper vs. FiTech. Leaning toward FiTech because the Holley unit has just started shipping and is unknown. For now, the motor will only get a new timing set, oil pump and valve seals, unless valves are sunk in the seats. Once my daughter is off to college and I inherit the truck again, the motor will be completely rebuilt at a much higher displacement than 360.
- engine accessories are coming together, but more on that later.
- I want to cover the bed with a soft tonneau, but haven't found one for these trucks that I like. I have also been toying with the idea of a red tonneau, so I may be talking to a custom boat top guy. I'd love some ideas around this from others. I've owned 2 different roll up covers from Accesscovers and love them. Unfortunately, they're a no-go for bumps.
I recently purchased an Eastwood plasma cutter capable of cutting more than 3/4", so the twin I beam removal should be straight forward.
At the moment, I have my 66 Cyclone and 60 Pontiac stored in the garage. The plan is to accumulate parts and minimize the time the truck is immobile because those cars will have to move to my other garage during the major surgery (they do NOT stay outside).
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 5:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
- Jacksdad
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Try posting them as an attachment. Click "attachment" below your post, and then "add files". Once you've found the picture, hit "place inline" and you're good to go. That way, you can't be held hostage by anyone as Photobucket is trying to do
Interested to see what you have so far - fascinating build
Interested to see what you have so far - fascinating build
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Local auto recycler has one yard dedicated to full size trucks. They're pulling a 4r70w from an Expedition for me and will take the 3 speed for the core swap. $300, loaded into the bed of my truck. Can't beat that with a stick.
Now to order these...
Now to order these...
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1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Wheels and adapters...
Some think that adapters (spacers) are bad for axles or bearings. Although that can be true when spacing out the whole wheel, it's not true in this case. I'm merely moving the hub face of the wheel outward with the new wheels, so the adapter moves it back to the drum. The location of the rim and tire relative to the axle flange hasn't changed, just the mounting face. The axle doesn't know I've changed a thing.
Had I kept the stock wheels and added the spacer, then there would be additional 2" of leverage against the axle.
So, the spacers are also adapters, as I've used them to change the bolt pattern as well.
Wheels to be painted Regis Red
Finally figured out my GoDaddy file sharing!!!
Some think that adapters (spacers) are bad for axles or bearings. Although that can be true when spacing out the whole wheel, it's not true in this case. I'm merely moving the hub face of the wheel outward with the new wheels, so the adapter moves it back to the drum. The location of the rim and tire relative to the axle flange hasn't changed, just the mounting face. The axle doesn't know I've changed a thing.
Had I kept the stock wheels and added the spacer, then there would be additional 2" of leverage against the axle.
So, the spacers are also adapters, as I've used them to change the bolt pattern as well.
Wheels to be painted Regis Red
Finally figured out my GoDaddy file sharing!!!
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Roof to be painted like this, but lower body will remain completely white with above wheels painted same red.
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Calm before the storm...
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
Interior
Last edited by WhitsEnd on Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
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Re: WhitsEnd Transformation
The garage is a mess and my tools are covering my bench. Part of the issue is not having a good, large tool chest that is centrally located in the garage. So, I decided to build a tool chest to fit under my bench that will double as a secondary bench or weld table as needed with lockable wheels. Top three drawers will be full width of 44" and shallow for all my hand tools, wrenches and sockets. Bottom two drawers will be a re-purposed lateral file cabinet at the same 44" width. They will hold many of the boxed power tools, tool kits and larger items. The electrical, pneumatic and plumbing stuff will stay in the current upright tool box.
Metals Supermarket cut my frame materials and I picked them up last weekend in the F100.
Metals Supermarket cut my frame materials and I picked them up last weekend in the F100.
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642
project link: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=83642