'69 F100 3-on-the-tree - Help with Transmission linkage

[superdodds]

Hey friends, I picked up a 1969 F100 3 speed on the column for $700.00 and it runs great. New water pump, new clutch, rebuilt engine 30,000 miles ago. Having a little trouble with the linkage. I see from my VIN that the transmission was labeled as "C" and according to what I can find, it appears to be a Ford Light Duty Transmission. Once in gear, it picks up nicely and goes. My trouble is, getting it into first gear. Sometimes I have to shift several times before it will go into gear. The shifter on the column will feel like it's dropping into gear, but as soon as I let off the clutch and press the gas, the gears will grind like mad and I have try again. If I gently press down with my hand on the gear shifter (on the column) as I let off the clutch and give it gas (veeeeeery gently), it will kind of lurch forward like the gears are catching and then it will go. This is a pain at stop signs and such. Looking at the gear arms coming off the column (under the hood) and connecting to the levers on the outside of the transmission underneath, there are some bushings/grommets (I think these are what I need? https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry4 ... -7343-A&s=) that are waaaaay worn out and the linkage is incredibly loose (at both the transmission levers and up top connecting to the column under the hood). I want to replace these in hopes that this may be part of my problem. I'm not sure exactly. Also, near the top of where the arms connect to the steering column (under the hood) there is a switch of some kind. The whole assembly was all kinds of "gunked up" up there and using about half a can of brake cleaner, I was able to make the whole thing shift a little smoother and I removed and disassembled that switch and cleaned it all up and then re-lubricated it and it's better, but I'm still having that same gearshift issue into 1st. I'm not sure if this is my switch for Neutral? Any ideas on where to start to calibrate this thing so it shifts smoothly are appreciated. Lastly, any specific parts I should maybe replace first in my steering column I'll gladly do. I have the correct drawings for this assembly and can do the work myself -- I'm just not too sure where to begin. I don't want to replace or rebuild more than I need to. Thanks so much.

- Chris in San Antonio, TX

[michael69]

The switch is for your back up lights. When you put it in reverse it makes your lights come on.

[FORDification]

Ford manual transmissions don't have neutral safety switches.

Take a look at this page for info on the bushings and thrust washers which tend to wear out over time and cause shifting issues like you're describing:

http://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm

[superdodds]

Hey guys, thanks so much for the responses. The switch -- yeah, that makes total sense! I couldn't for the life of me figure out what that was for but when I read that, the light came on! I had noticed too that the white rear backup light on the passenger side always stayed on. I just checked it now after having completely disassembled and clean it out and put it back in there to see if the light had gone out and it had. It would appear that all that oily gunk and build up was causing the revers switch to stay in contact with the metal inserts thus keeping that light on. Now it is free to slide up and down and work properly. Awesome! As for the link to the linkage pics -- I saw that the first night I brought this vehicle home and wasn't even sure what I was looking at. This is my first project vehicle and I'm putting this all together in my head as I go. It's not taken too long, but long enough for me to wrap my brain around what the scope of each of these mini-projects consists of. The bushings there are exactly what I thought they were and I will order them tomorrow along with probably most of all the rest of the pieces in that rebuild article. Once I get the linkage working properly, I can focus on the brakes and the steering and eventually onto the cab and interior. Again, I really appreciate your help in this. I'll be hanging around this forum a lot over the next few months.

- Dodds in SA

PS - This is going to sound really novice, but where do I begin to disassemble the column from? I have a steering wheel puller, but I can't even figure out how to get to that point! Is there an article about removing a steering wheel from one of these trucks? Thanks...

[michael69]

If you are just going to replace the rubber bushings you don't have to take the column apart or out of truck. Just pull the shift linkages out of shifter arm and replace the bushings.

[superdodds]

Obviously, the bushings will be easy enough to replace. I can get those old ones out and the new ones in just a matter of minutes with the new clips. I guess that's the way to start first, I was just thinking that it might be good to go ahead and replace most of the components in the column due to the fact that I'm sure it's never been maintained and the blinker is really weak, etc. It would be nice to feel confident in all those components and not feel like I'm about to break anything or that pieces may go out while I'm driving. I know the shift grommet up top is worn out to. It could use a new shift collar. The existing one is stretched out and has some cracks from years of somebody pulling too hard to get the car into gear! I'll start with the bushings though and go from there. Most of that stuff is reasonably affordable so I don't mind putting in the work. I'd like to make this thing a daily driver. Anyhow, any ideas for where to start to disassemble the sterring wheel and column is greatly appreciated. I just purchased the Ford shop manuals on CD for that year so I imagine it will be helpful once I receive it.

[sargentrs]

There's a 3 prong plastic thing held on with 3 screws on the back side of the horn button. The prongs fit in slots in the turn signal housing. Twist the horn button, with slight upward pressure, until you feel them get loose in the slot. Then gently lift upward. They've got a lip on the bottom of them so you might have to ease it to one side to get one to clear them just wiggle and lift to get them all loose. Then take the nut off of the end of the steering shaft and, using a puller, remove the steering wheel. The link that Keith posted will take it from there. On the lower end, unplug the turn signal harness and remove the clips and pull the linkage arms out of the lever bushings. Remove the firewall bracket in the engine compartment by removing the clamp and 4 bolts. Unplug the back up switch harness and remove the switch and bracket. Remove the 2 nuts that hold the rag joint halves together. Inside the cab, remove the 4 sheet metal screws that hold the inner firewall bracket in place. Remove the 2 bolts under the dash that hold the steering column to the dashboard. Slide the column out from inside the cab. It's easier to rebuild on a bench instead of mounted. The parts are available from Dennis Carpenter, LMC, NPD or Carolina Classics http://www.carolina-classics.com/Result ... mit=Search I got most of my parts from Carolina Classics. The hardest part is removing the shift collar without scraping the wiring harness. The rest is pretty simple. I rebuilt mine in about 6 hours, including sanding and painting and spent about $85 in parts. The steering shaft and column shift lever are the only things that are not available aftermarket or NOS. Did I forget anything guys? Good luck!

[superdodds]

That last post by sargentrs was invaluable! I was successfully able to disassemble my steering column and get to the inner parts to see what it is that I need and what it is that I don't -- awesome! Thanks you! I have a couple more questions though... On the shift tube, at the end near the spring (bottom), there is a white nylon/plastic sleeve that is slightly worn. It's not terrible and I don't know if it's worth replacing the shift tube for, but is there any way to get one of these for replacement? My shift tube is in good shape and I'd hate to have to buy another one just for that little piece. How crucial is that little plastic sleeve? Once I am reassembling this column, how do you suggest lubricating the spring on the bottom end for allowing for free movement of the shift tube within the column? Thanks again for all your help - this is invaluable to me!

- Dodds

[sargentrs]

Glad that helped. Is this what you're talking about?

3spd_08.jpg

I've been searching but, unfortunately, I can't find one. You might try calling Green Sales or Miller Obsolete and describe it to them. They're some pretty good, knowledgeable people and have helped me out finding part numbers and such. As an alternative, you might try to figure out the ID and OD and length and match something close here http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-sleeve-bearings/=j5yzyb With a little work, or a local machine shop, you can get something that'll work.

[GHOST]

by the way...Welcome to the family from south Texas..and please post photos of you truck so we can see your progress...

[superdodds]

Thanks so much! I will post photos as I have time. It's not much to look at and I'm more interested in getting this car setup as a daily driver than restoring to factory new. We sort of lucked into this vehicle for an extremely good price and I've got a son who'll soon be 16 and thought this would fun for him to drive some. My 7th grade son enjoys working on it with me so it's a fun family project!

- Doddsy

PS - I see you're from Mission? Not sure how long you've lived there, but I grew up with the Detmer boys in SA before they made that move and they were pretty popular down there!