Timing Dilemma 360 Fe

[Chaseman]

Okay so today I decided to see what happens if I bump up my timing. So I go to advance it and notice it's already all the way over. Yet I have no pinging and I can run on crap gas. So is this of symptom of a dizzy going bad to the point that the PO set it all the way up to get some advance? Uh or what else?

Thanks
Chaseman

[fordman]

so you turned the dist ? how much did you turn it? how much timing does the damper say now? has this truck been running funny or something? slow to respond? have you done any major engine work to the truck ? did the po do any that you know of?

[Chaseman]

Okay , I understand I didn't give much info my mistake , No I didn't turn it (dizzy) , it was already all the way advanced or alt least as far a it could go before the vacuum advance hits something. Yes the engine is slow to respond and there is no major work that I know of. Also it occasionally lean pops when I lug the motor or try to take off real hard. I've been told sometimes really retarded timing can do that , apart from lack of fuel etc. How do I check what the damper says?

Thanks
Chase

[fordman]

someone has put the dist in wrong then or the timing chain is so worn that thats the only position it will run good in. to read the damper clean the dirt off of it with a wire brush or clean of the oil with a solvent. and then check where the pointer is pointing when it is at top dead center.

[lee_ford]

A quick simple solution is instead of pulling the distributor and rotating it, just pull the plug wires off and move them around one hole. This will give you 22 degrees more advance available to use before the vacuum advance hits whatever it is hitting.

To be sure you do it right, with the motor NOT RUNNING, back the timing off 1/8th turn on the distributor. Then move the wires to where they are at now in relation to the engine compartment. Then advance the timing as needed.

Here is my shade tree way to adjust timing:
Start the motor and advance the timing slowly. The idle will increase as you do. Stop when the idle starts slowing down and back it up a tad. Maybe 1/4 inch or so. Kill it and try to crank it. If it stumbles and does not crank steady, then back it off a little more. Continue until it cranks smoothly and you have got it real close if not right on. The next step is to go for a drive. Do a couple of test accelerations to see if the motor knocks. Be sure and lug the motor to try and get it to knock. If it does back it off a tad more. Once you cannot hear any knocking, back it off just a tad more to be sure.

Of course you could get a timing light and set it to factory specs, but I have always done mine the easy shade tree way.

[george worley]

I have used a vacuum guage when I didn't have a timing light. My auto shop class teacher showed me how he did it. advance dist. to the highest vacuum you can get before it drops off. Then back the dist. up 1 inch of vacuum from the high number. tighten it down and test drive it. Adjust as needed. I timed my 58 Ford 352 that way because some one had put the wrong damper on it.

[fastEdsel]

I agree with using a vacuum guage to check timing and it is possible the PO installed the dizzy too far one way and adjusting the wires is the quickest and safest way to change things. One thing I do here is pull out the number one spark plug. With a socket wrench, turn the front dampner nut clockwise till you see the number one piston coming up towards TDC on the compression stroke. Stop turning the wrench when the timing pointer meets the 8 degree BTDC. Put the spark plug back onto the wire then turn on the ignition but DO NOT turn over the engine. Loosen off the dizzy and turn it till the plug sparks. Tighten down the dizzy, re-install the plug and the timing will be so close you can at least get a reference point for fine tuning with a vacuum guage or regular timing light. I use 8 degrees because that's what works for me at this altitude. Yours might be different or check the shop manual.

[OldGuy]

A quick simple solution is instead of pulling the distributor and rotating it, just pull the plug wires off and move them around one hole. This will give you 22 degrees more advance available to use before the vacuum advance hits whatever it is hitting.

To be sure you do it right, with the motor NOT RUNNING, back the timing off 1/8th turn on the distributor. Then move the wires to where they are at now in relation to the engine compartment. Then advance the timing as needed.

Here is my shade tree way to adjust timing:
Start the motor and advance the timing slowly. The idle will increase as you do. Stop when the idle starts slowing down and back it up a tad. Maybe 1/4 inch or so. Kill it and try to crank it. If it stumbles and does not crank steady, then back it off a little more. Continue until it cranks smoothly and you have got it real close if not right on. The next step is to go for a drive. Do a couple of test accelerations to see if the motor knocks. Be sure and lug the motor to try and get it to knock. If it does back it off a tad more. Once you cannot hear any knocking, back it off just a tad more to be sure.

Of course you could get a timing light and set it to factory specs, but I have always done mine the easy shade tree way.

I had the same issue, and did as lee-ford says and it worked great.

Here was my original posting:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... ck#p333779

[Chaseman]

I had the same issue, and did as lee-ford says and it worked great.

Here was my original posting:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... ck#p333779

[/quote]



Cool! that seems to be exactly my problem , my vacuum can is does the same thing. Thank you guys I will try moving the plug wires and also I checked if my timing chain was loose by turning the engine by the damper and watching the rotor , they move in sync with each other. Oh boy this awesome I can't wait to go try this.
So will this help with my truck being a dog?
Thanks
Chaseman

[rjewkes]

I wonder if your breaker plate in the dizz is wore out? and its that advanced to keep it from being a problem?