#50: 1972 F250 8,100lb GVW Disc Brakes (Tons of Photos)

[robroy]

Hi!

In this thread I'll document the complete renewal of the factory disc brakes on my 1972 8,100lb GVW F250. Hopefully these photos will come in handy for others doing similar jobs. Let me know if you'd like more details on any particular step or part I'm using!

Here's the passenger side spindle.



And dust shield plate.



Here's how it goes on the spindle.



Here are the replacement bolts I'm using to mount the anchor plate to the spindle.



And here's the fastener arrangement I'll use. I'll put one Nord-Lock under the bolt head, then one under the nut on the other side of the spindle. Those nuts are grade eight, all metal lock nuts.



Here's my anchor plate with nice new caliper bolt bushings installed.



And here's the anti-seize compound I'll put on the bolts.



Here's the anchor plate and dust shield bolted up to the spindle.



Here's a close up view of the fasteners. Note also the nice surface on the spindle where the inner bearing goes. I used a metal finishing pad on it to shine it up.



And a view of the fasteners from the inside. I carefully removed the extra anti-seize so it wouldn't attract dirt.



Here's a funny tool that I tried out for packing the wheel bearings. It worked very well and packed the bearings more thoroughly and easily than I could have by hand, but it was just as messy as doing it by hand.



I bought the funny tool from NPD but I've since seen it at regular auto parts stores.



Here's the grease I'm using for the bearings. It doesn't explicitly say "Wheel Bearings" anywhere on the tube, which concerns me a little bit. But it does say "bearings" and "high/low temperature" and "high pressure" and all that stuff so maybe it's OK.



The trusty grease gun.



Here I've inserted the inner bearing in the tool.



And here's the grease gooshing out the far side of the bearing.



I realized that I used way too much grease when I opened the funny tool up. Oh well! It sure did a thorough job.



I plopped the new bearing down in the race. The race came pre-installed in the new rotor (from NAPA).



Here's the grease seal. The Rockauto site said it was the correct seal for disc brakes, but it's not big enough to fit my rotors. I think I need BCA/NATIONAL Part # 6954S instead. Note: the photos shown are showing THE WRONG SEAL--DON'T BUY IT.





Here's how the incorrect seal fits in the rotor. It just kind of floats there in the center since it's really not wide enough to fit.



Here's my old seal.



And here's how the old seal fits in the rotor. You can see how it's wide enough that it's a snug fit.



Time to order the right seal, then complete this job next weekend!

Thanks for reading!
-Robroy

[fireguywtc]

Looks great so far!!

[fireguywtc]

Heres how mine turned out Robroy. As you can see I am missing something on top of the calipers on the bolts (some sort of dust boot im guessing). Also I couldn't get the metal sleeve in the caliper mount with the rubber bushing. I took the rubber bushing out of the sleeve to put it in there, I don't know whey it wouldn't go back in, it was the old stuff. Ill be closely watching your progress to see what it's supposed to look like in the end. Since I didn't have anything to compare to before.


sleeve sitting on the mount, won't fit.

[FLATBEDFORD]

[robroy]

Hi Bill! I finally finished the calipers on my truck, and along the way I may have picked up some useful information.

Driver's side:




I accidentally stripped the nut on the top caliper mounting bolt on the driver's side, so where's what I did:




Passenger side:



Bill, you probably notice that I don't have the rubber dust boot installed on my caliper mounting bolts, and I installed four rubber bushings (in the metal sleeves) in each anchor arm/plate. I have reason to believe that this is the proper setup for disc brakes on trucks made after 1972's VIN M80001.

I believe that starting with VIN S/N M80001 in 1972, Ford started using a new disc brake anchor arm/plate design that called for four rubber bushings (as shown in my photos). The anchor arms used previous to S/N M80001 were designed to use two rubber bushings (in metal sleeves), two metal bushings that ran all the way through the caliper bolt mounting holes, and two dust boots.

The 1972 Ford shop manual illustrates the pre-M80001 anchor arm/plates, as shown in these sections:

Illustration on 12-24-3. Although it's hard to see in this image, the rubber dust boot is shown on the outer side of the caliper mounting bolts.



Figure 6 on 12-24-5 shows the details about how that rubber dust boot is supposed to work. It's supposed to be pinned down under a lip that's part of the long metal bushing (the long bushing that runs all the way through the anchor plate):



And the instructions on 12-24-5 leave little room for doubt:



The rebuilt caliper kits I bought came with the bushings and boots to install on the pre-M80001 anchor plates described in the 1972 shop manual (and earlier manuals--my 1970 shop manual also describes this older setup). I sat there staring at those dust boots for a long time before putting the puzzle pieces together!

NAPA sells these bushings and boots separately from the calipers, and they have a different kit for each anchor plate style. Here's part number 82113A, which covers the early style. You can see the rubber bushings, rubber boots, and the metal bushing that goes all the way through.



And here's part number 82116A, which covers the late style; this is the style installed on my truck:



Bill, do you happen to know the S/N of the truck you got your disc brake parts from? Based on how your photos look, I am guessing that you and I both have late 1972 anchor plates (post M80001). This explains why the rubber boots in your photos doesn't appear to be sealing anything; they're meant to be used with the old style anchor plates, where they sealed against the long metal bushings.

Note that I got the VIN information from the NAPA catalog. Naturally it may not be correct, but it fits in with all the evidence and makes sense.

What do you think Bill? Did you go down a similar road investigating this?

I'm guessing that if we were to look in the 1973 Ford shop manual, we'd see the layout that matches our anchor plates.

Robroy

[fireguywtc]

Robroy, That looks fantastic, you have really done great job collection all the info. I need and more.

To be honest I have been busy and put off working on the brakes for some time now, but I don't need them right now either so it has not been a priority. I do need to get those bushings and such since for some reason I could not get the old ones to go in.

I also still need to go into the front end and add that extra nut under the spring cup, so when I get some time I will have a front end day when I get the those done and finish up the front brakes. I hope I get mine as good as yours. Great job!

[19674x4]

Very good write up robroy.....

[robroy]

Robroy, That looks fantastic, you have really done great job collection all the info. I need and more.

To be honest I have been busy and put off working on the brakes for some time now, but I don't need them right now either so it has not been a priority. I do need to get those bushings and such since for some reason I could not get the old ones to go in.

Hey Bill! Glad you liked the info buddy!

If your anchor arms originally had four of those rubber bushings in the metal sleeves, you'll want NAPA part number 82116A. Regarding getting those guys pressed in to the anchor plate, a few things come to mind; please forgive me if these are already obvious to you.

1. My most hearty suggestion, in addition to whatever other method you use, is to apply Permatex Thread Lock Red (the strongest, most permanent type) on both the metal sleeves and the indents in the anchor arm before pressing them in. Then wait 24 hours before driving in the caliper bolts.
2. Try again with brand new bushings from NAPA kit 82116A. I'll bet that will be the solution, since the new metal sleeves are pristine.
3. Try tapping the bushings in with a 9/16" socket on the end.
4. Get the seats inside the anchor arm (where the metal sleeves pushes in to) as immaculate as possible. I spent a good while cleaning mine out with rags and brake cleaner--there was a lot of rust in there.
5. You may want to carefully run a rotary tool inside the indents to clean them out more effectively.
6. As you know, the bushings have an open side and a side that's curved over the edge of the rubber part to retain it. Ensure you're installing them so the open side faces the inside of the anchor arm.
7. You could try using a file to bevel off the edge of the metal sleeve. The risk here is that it could make it more difficult for the sleeve to stay in, once installed.

The thread lock will act as a lube when it's wet that might help them slide in, and once it dries, it will keep them from scooting out when you drive the caliper bolt through. I had this problem on mine and this solved it! It could be worth picking up a tube of that stuff (the Permatex "Red" formula) in case you hit this issue.

Note that although this happened to me while installing the caliper bolts, I can imagine it happening down the road in response to movements of the disc brake floating assembly (if that puts any friction on those bushings). I think this is a non-issue after a few years since the metal sleeves will rust solid with the anchor arms.

I also still need to go into the front end and add that extra nut under the spring cup, so when I get some time I will have a front end day when I get the those done and finish up the front brakes. I hope I get mine as good as yours. Great job!

Thanks Bill! That sounds great. Unless yours have suffered from oxygen exposure and gotten rusty like mine, I think yours will turn out looking a whole lot nicer! I didn't think my rotors and calipers would turn brown so quickly; good things my wheels will hide them.

Very good write up robroy.....

Thanks 19674x4! Hopefully the info is accurate. A look through a 1973 Ford shop manual could confirm most of it--I'll check it out if I ever have access to one.

Robroy

[robroy]

#50's S/N is P60524, which makes sense since it has the new style anchor arms.

[la1031]

Great looking brake job!!

I would suggest the following that a technician friend told me.

NEVER PUT NEW Rotors DIRECTLY ON THE ROAD!

Always have new discs turned on a brake lathe. Even though they are new the disc is not perfectly...although close to perfect...true. What you need to do is have a guy with a brake lathe turn the rotors with the races installed. It will shock you how far off the rotor is.

I also installed later 70's dust shields and they have a cooling vent in the front to help the disc brake, if your not building a pure.. year correct machine, you might paint up a set from the junk.

[la1031]

I dont know if they fit, but I found them of a 77 F150 and then I powdercoated them.

[robroy]

Hi La1031! Thanks for replying!

Your suggestion about not putting new rotors directly on the road is interesting! At this point though, since this is the first time I'm hearing this particular warning, I think I'll risk it and leave 'em on. I don't want to go through the hassle of re-doing the wheel bearings and caliper mounts now.

But if I do encounter issues, I'll remember your advice and think about having the rotors turned!

Thanks again La1031!
Robroy

[la1031]

honestly bearings and everything will not be harmed by removing them..as in you dont have to re-pack them..at least most brake places will not do that when they do a brake repair. You would have to loosen two bolt swing out the caliper loosen the castle nut and then have em resurfaced for $6-8 a piece depending on the shop. But I know your pain. Quick story..I ha a chevy guy helping me put my brakes together and I was working something else and he assembled the spindles and rotors without me paying attention....well..let me show you the pic:



Notice anything wrong???

Well, I cross drilled my own rotors..and my freind is used to chevys where the steering is on the front of the spindle...He installed my rotors on the wrong side...look at the twist direction of the holes in the rotors.!!!!

So I understand because I still have to fix this and like you I am not looking forward to being covered in bearing grease just to move the rotor from one side to the other. But mine is a project truck so I will not be on the road for a long time.

BTW the caliper, dust sheild, spindle...everything is powdercoated...sweet!

[robroy]

The brakes are now almost completely done! I just need to spend more time bleeding them. Here are a couple of photos I took:

The passenger's side brake hose freshly connected to the stainless line!



The master cylinder just bolted up. When I took this photo I hadn't yet finished the tubing to the cylinder, but that's done now too.



Robroy

[fireguywtc]

Ok I need some help and I am very frustrated

I have ordered a new set of bushings and such for my brakes but they still dont fit. They are the same size as the old ones and I cant figure out what I am doing wrong or if something has changed and I need to fix it. Here is a pic of the bushing and the only hole that I know of that it should go in. Should I drill it out? BTW the rubber piece out of the metal shell fits in there perfectly. Whats going on here??

Thanks, BIll