1969 F250 4x4 300 L6. I believe the motor may be from a '68.
I have the standard Pertronix Ignitor, and one of their Flame-Thrower coils that I will be installing shortly.
First, the arrow in the photo below. I presume this condenser was installed to suppress radio interference noise at some point in the truck's past. Since I am not presently running a radio is it safe to ditch this component?
I disconnected the ignition wire from the coil and measured the voltage with the key on. I get full 12+ battery voltage. I assume this means the ignition resistor has been removed along the way, and I am thus good to go. The wire running from the coil to the firewall is red with green stripe. All good to proceed with the install?
Recommendation on new wires? I'm willing to measure and cut, but I'd prefer a set already the proper length for plug and play. (I really hate wires that are too long)
Do I just go with the OEM plugs & gap once the new ignition and coil are installed?
Any other thoughts or advice? Thanks!
Questions Before Pertronix Install
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- Idaho Chris
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Questions Before Pertronix Install
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-Chris
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
- basketcase0302
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Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
Chris,"Idaho Chris"1969 F250 4x4 300 L6. I believe the motor may be from a '68.
I have the standard Pertronix Ignitor, and one of their Flame-Thrower coils that I will be installing shortly.
First, the arrow in the photo below. I presume this condenser was installed to suppress radio interference noise at some point in the truck's past. Since I am not presently running a radio is it safe to ditch this component?
I disconnected the ignition wire from the coil and measured the voltage with the key on. I get full 12+ battery voltage. I assume this means the ignition resistor has been removed along the way, and I am thus good to go. The wire running from the coil to the firewall is red with green stripe. All good to proceed with the install?
Recommendation on new wires? I'm willing to measure and cut, but I'd prefer a set already the proper length for plug and play. (I really hate wires that are too long)
Do I just go with the OEM plugs & gap once the new ignition and coil are installed?
Any other thoughts or advice? Thanks!
1) I'll let someone else chime in on the condensor for sure, (I'd removed mine on my last bump but not 100% sure).
2) From the wiring diagram I've attached your working with your original wiring using the red with green stripe wire. On that I'd go one step further and measure the voltage with the engine running as I believe you've measuring the voltage presently coming from the ignition bypass circuit, (being a full 12 volts). I'm thinking your resistance wiring is still there and you need to run a new 14 gauge from the switch out to the coil, (I wouldn't cut the wire out like most guys do when you run a new wire / simply cut it loose at the switch or just cap the end out by the coil / this leaves you the option to go back to the points in an emergency situation).
3) I've never had any luck whatsoever with pre made wires matching up length wise. If it were mine I'd buy the resistor core 8MM GOOD wires and put the ends on myself.
4) Another beauty of Pertronix I found was that it wasn't really "finicky" as to the plug gap, (and even the gap there in the distributor). I'd ran the 250 6 cyl Ranchero and my 360 / 302 V-8 Pertronix plugs at both .035 and up to .040 playing around with them and never saw much difference. You might see it in a performance drag strip type environment but in my daily drivers I never saw a difference. Play with it to see if gas mileage increases with increased gap. And you might want to invest into the Pertronix flamethrower coil as I believe your existing coil being designed for the lower voltage does make a performance difference.
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Luv' dem' Pertronix-but...always kept a set of points in my dash for emergencies.
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edit for image link:
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Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- Idaho Chris
- New Member
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:08 pm
- Location: Bonners Ferry, ID
Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
Jeff-
Thank you so much for the informative and helpful reply! I will run another wire as you suggest. I also really like the idea of carrying a spare set of points in the glove box!
I already have a Flame thrower coil which I will be installing at the same time.
Hopefully someone else will chime in on the condenser removal.
-Chris
Thank you so much for the informative and helpful reply! I will run another wire as you suggest. I also really like the idea of carrying a spare set of points in the glove box!
I already have a Flame thrower coil which I will be installing at the same time.
Hopefully someone else will chime in on the condenser removal.
-Chris
-Chris
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
- sargentrs
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Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
I say scrap the condenser and buy a good set of shielded plug wires. I put these on both my Fairlane and my '88 F150. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-12259-c301Idaho Chris wrote:Hopefully someone else will chime in on the condenser removal.
Also, whenever I swap to any electronic ignition setup, I run it off of a 12v relay from the battery and use that red/green ignition wire as the trigger. That way you keep your original wiring and ignition system intact and can swap back to points in a jiffy. I take a box and put my old points stuff in the trunk or toolbox for an emergency ignition kit.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- WarEagle
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Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
If you are putting in elec ignition, a condenser isn't needed. A condenser (or capacitor) builds a charge and releases it in bursts. Not sure how or why it would affect radio interference. The actual spark plug wires could cause radio interference if solid core, so get suppression wires if you plan on installing a radio. IMO, I would ditch the capacitor.
1972 F100 300 cid straight 6
2009 F150 4.6L Super Crew
2009 F150 4.6L Super Crew
- Idaho Chris
- New Member
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- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:08 pm
- Location: Bonners Ferry, ID
Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
I assume the lower voltage put out by the red/green stripe resistor wire is sufficient to trigger a standard SPST 12 volt automotive relay? Or, do I need to search for a 6 volt relay?sargentrs wrote:
Also, whenever I swap to any electronic ignition setup, I run it off of a 12v relay from the battery and use that red/green ignition wire as the trigger. That way you keep your original wiring and ignition system intact and can swap back to points in a jiffy. I take a box and put my old points stuff in the trunk or toolbox for an emergency ignition kit.
Thanks, I will ditch the condenser.WarEagle wrote:If you are putting in elec ignition, a condenser isn't needed. A condenser (or capacitor) builds a charge and releases it in bursts. Not sure how or why it would affect radio interference. The actual spark plug wires could cause radio interference if solid core, so get suppression wires if you plan on installing a radio. IMO, I would ditch the capacitor.
-Chris
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 9866
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
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Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
Standard 12v relay is fine.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- Idaho Chris
- New Member
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:08 pm
- Location: Bonners Ferry, ID
Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
Well, I installed my Pertronix ignition today. Runs real smooth. Thanks for everyone's help and advice.
If anyone is interested in detail or photos, go to this link of my progress: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 15#p749019
If anyone is interested in detail or photos, go to this link of my progress: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 15#p749019
-Chris
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
1969 F250 4x4 4spd 300 I6
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
- basketcase0302
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 6805
- Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:11 am
- Location: Hawthorne, Florida
Re: Questions Before Pertronix Install
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Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4