A little write up I did on the MC/ booster setup I chose.
This is for those of you who wish to upgrade your braking power in your 57-72 f-series pickups. for under a $100. interested?
Good, this is a simple enough upgrade that does NOT require many modifications, if any.
(73-79 with an angled brake rod)
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/0777DAA0-EB97-4F45-A696-2D73A1D51DAE_zpsxfeu1jhf.jpg)
In this write up i will be using:
A early 90s explorer master cylinder(MC): $30
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/E2D34BB5-CD24-4083-A968-CC04E1E2DDB6_zpsjkqucraj.jpg)
A new universal brake booster, single or dual diaphragm: $25-50
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/02A767BC-B018-4A4A-BC2F-DF63FD48BCCE_zpssyq2uuza.jpg)
A NON angled or cantilever booster bracket:$20
Non cantilever type:
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/6B1C1661-565E-4E9E-8223-4C3B05B4C645_zps5awbfbxk.jpg)
Cantilever type:
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/C37E4295-6077-4755-8B67-CF6BB50F2A73_zpsazgleepx.jpg)
Last but not least a universal adjustable brake push rod: $20
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/CF1ED461-6D0C-466E-96D4-4C46BF95A8AF_zpsn5xubqs9.jpg)
For manual brake application:
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/0A64DC14-62B5-4E34-BBFB-694F196092E2_zps4tfbt0ao.jpg)
And an OPTIONAL adjustable proportioning valve for those of u who are running front disc brakes on your orginal drum brake valve: $30
![Image](http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n492/craigerGTA/Mobile%20Uploads/5B1441A4-B879-4074-8600-717EC3A8E458_zps4kxfqqoj.jpg)
Just for estetic reasons here are 3 possible modifications that u might have to make to mate these 4 parts togeather.
1st: on the MC you might have to widen the bolt holes to fit over the brake boosters thicker bolts. this can be accomplished by a large drill bit or a large file. both tools are cheap and your local harbor freight or equivalant.
2nd: you mignt have to drill 2 extra wholes in your universal booster bracket to mount the brackets up using your original 4 fire wall bolts. (this is not needed if u have the oem original booster brackets)
3rd: this isnt a "modification" neccisarly. but there is a bolt and nut at the front of your booster (MC side). that will need loosening till its extended out. then tightened. i personily tool the bolt nd fround a longer rounded end bolt of the same thread and installed it. this is most likely needed because your MC may have a deeper reciever.
Some other possible but unlikly modifications:
*modify the adjustable brake push rod to fit snug
*drill another whole in your brake pedal so the brake rod is aligned right.
Now the optional proportioning valve. its purpose is to be spliced in the rear brake line, if u are running the block valve with front disc brakes. so u can reduce the pressure to your rear drum brakes if u see fit. as the rear drums have a tendancy to lock up sooner then the front disc. (not needed if u have all 4 wheel disc or all 4 wheel drums)
On each part comes all the nuts, fittings, and correct threads to bolt these up.
here are the links to the parts on ebay:
MC
https://www.ebay.com/itm/261873730837
booster
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301939900687
bracket
https://www.ebay.com/itm/391061427433
brake rod
https://www.ebay.com/itm/182129088608
valve
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321591870033