'68 F250 Crew Cab 4x4 Short Box - Cummins!

[Manny]

I like that fuse panel that thing is sweet

[hivewax]

Yeah, I like the compact mini-fuse block... the lid is waterproof and the wires exposed on the back can be watertight by using some type of sealant. I left the block off the firewall... may have water getting under there.

Currently, just finished getting the brake lights to work - http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... &sk=t&sd=a - Now, on to the headlights.

[Doug Comer]

[hivewax]

Nothing exciting to add to the project yet. Since my last post, I've replaced the gear oil in the transfer case and front axle center section, lubed all the Zerk fittings. Started the engine once a week.

While doing these chores:

1. I found a leak where the front drive-shaft inserts into the front center section.
2. There are 2 missing rubber bushings on the huge steering linkage rod that connects end to end of the front axle hubs. One of the Zerk fittings needs to be replaced. I cannot pump lube into it.

When I get those done. I'll drive around the block and feel the truck out. Then, work on the headlights.

[basketcase0302]

1. I found a leak where the front drive-shaft inserts into the front center section.
2. There are 2 missing rubber bushings on the huge steering linkage rod that connects end to end of the front axle hubs. One of the Zerk fittings needs to be replaced. I cannot pump lube into it.

1) Sounds like the pinion seal on the front axle, (if you're referring to "center section" being the axle).
2) Sounds like tie rod end dust boots, (for keeping out dirt and moisture). Try replacing the zerk (grease) fitting first. Then you can actually get a needle fitting for your grease gun:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FM ... 6GEVDZEPQV
And cram grease into the ball and socket, (rather than replace the tie rods now-if your on a budget).

Hey...ya'll made world new yesterday! Removal of a long-standing ban on pit bull dogs by Florida legislature will put Miami-Dade county's ban out of business!

[hivewax]

Here are the photos of the pinion seal leak and the tie rod ends. Passenger side has a rubber bushing.

Can I just buy the rubber bushings? Or, do you think the tie rod ends are toast? To test them, would I take them off and see if they move? I don't want to screw the alignment up and pay for another re-alignment if I don't have to...

[basketcase0302]

Loren,
I'd start by cleaning up the area of the pinion seal real good. My expierence is that's sometimes the cause of the seal failure, (dirt and grime in between the yoke and the seal). You can change the pinion seal by pulling the front driveshaft / remove the nut that holds the yoke on / then pull the front pinion yoke (advise on using a puller for that) / then pull the seal out. I believe the "book" will say that once you do this you've opened up a...

Sorry...couldn't resist man. Anyway the book will say you should now reset ring and pinion gear mesh once you've taken the pinion yoke nut off? I've replaced a pinion seal before without resetting gear lash before though, without any issues. Maybe someone else can chime in here on this?
Check your tie rods by grabbing them on the bottom and check for movement between the stud part and the hollow part that holds the grease. You shouldn't have any noticeable slack there.
Hope it helps.

[hivewax]

Got the nut off. How do I remove the pinion yoke?

[Doug Comer]

Puller or slide hammer? Tap on the back of it with a hammer?
Doug

[hivewax]

I tried the hammer tapping... guess I didn't hit it hard enough. Too scared of breaking something. I'll try the hammer again with a large flat head screwdriver.

[FormerMarine1981]

Maybe use a ratchet strap to put some slight tension on it and tap it with the hammer??

[67mann]

Being that it's still in(or on)the truck..is a plus....try this when there out ,but anyways.....get yourself a bar(crow,breaker,etc)that will fit through the Ubolts and giv'er LL. Use your imagination....pull,tug and beat...don't pry

[hivewax]

Gave the yoke a couple of love taps from behind and it came right off. I first thought that the pinion yoke and the gear shaft was one.

The pinion seal was on there real tight... I thought it was one with the differential housing. Then, I saw some red sealant in the groove. I had to finally use a chisel to beat a hole in it and pry it out. I'll be taking the seal to NAPA to match it up with a new one.

This is my first differential axle initiation!

[hivewax]

Got the new $20 pinion seal on... used Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket sealant (using this a lot) on the edge. Topped off at filler hole once again... found no leaks. Now, I'll work on the headlights and drive the thing to get the new BFG tires on.

[Manny]

Cool stuff. Differentials can be a headache but glad that went well for you. Did you clean off the closed knuckle seal area (the Ball)?? Looking forward to seeing the look with the 235/85 16's on it.