Ford FE Operating Temperature

[GSequoia]

Just curious what temperature an FE (390 specifically) likes to operate at so I can set a thermostat accordingly. I think mine is probably running a bit on the cool side (I suspect there is no thermostat in the water outlet).

Thanks

[70_F100]

180 is good, or 195.

Depends upon how cold it gets in the winter and how well your cab seals out cold air.

Being in CA, you're probably good with the 180.

[GSequoia]

Anybody ever experiment with operating temperature and efficiency and power?

I bring this point up because a lot of folks think cooler is always better and I know that isn't always true!

70 - At some point I plan to put together a ******* cold air intake kit for the 'ol truck. I've never much liked the air intake being pointed right at the hot air off the radiator.

[fordman]

what i read is that hot is better. 70 is right 180-195. the original was a 192.

[GSequoia]

what i read is that hot is better.

That's my experience with my Jeep 4.0 (242ci) six cylinders. Run them between 195 - 210 and they get better economy and power. Was curious about the 390 as well because I'll take every spare mile per gallon (Hell, even quarter mile per gallon!) I can get.

[fordman]

i think i just need a bigger gas tank. it seems everytime i turn around i am out of gas.

[GSequoia]

i think i just need a bigger gas tank. it seems everytime i turn around i am out of gas.

My major goal in life is to consistently pull double digits.

I really need to finish flushing out my auxiliary tank and re-install it.

[bjde0b]

Engineering and mechanical wise, an engine will operate better when hot, but you also then have to ask yourself, how long do I want my engine to last. That is the question we have to ask when working with our gas turbines.

[GSequoia]

Engineering and mechanical wise, an engine will operate better when hot, but you also then have to ask yourself, how long do I want my engine to last. That is the question we have to ask when working with our gas turbines.

I wouldn't think operating around 200 - 210 would be too bad, Jeep 4.0s consistently pull 300,000 miles at that temperature and they are a sixties designed powerplant (basically it's just incremental displacement changes to an AMC 199 with a modern fuel system tacked onto an aluminum intake manifold.

[4xfordtowing]

I've read hundreds of posts on this topic I'm also old school & always thought cooler was better over 190 was bad. Well I'll admit it I was wrong.
The 390 in my truck with 10:1 compression 30° total timing mallory mechanical adv dist comp cams magnum 280 adj roller rockers 1.76:1 holley 750 eldelbrock performer intake gt390 heads long tube headers 2.5" duals w/flowmasters c6 trans with 2500 stall converter 456 gears high flow w-pump recored 4 row rad 50/50 mix coolant & distilled water 15lb cap electric fans set at 195-200 on & 180-185 off sensor in t-stat housing rad side with capillary tube gauge installed in factory location on engine side of t-stat this configuration keeps fans from running all the time & gives the most accurate temp reading. It runs best @ 200° @ night when outside temp is 60-65 w/low humidity. It freaking rips under these conditions, will smoke 38" tires in 1st gear chirp 2nd & ass end still gets out of shape when banging 3rd at about 5000 rpm's. So I'd say the ideal temp range for the fe is 200-210 no less than 185 & no more than 230.

[My427stang]

180-195 is withing spitting difference of each other in operation. Here is some facts from old engine builder guy (me LOL)

1 - Hot oil, cool water is best for peak power
2 - Less ring wear with engine at proper temp (hotter better, but not too hot)
3 - If engine gets too hot, alum pistons expand more than block opens (think overheat, not thermostat temp)
4 - A thermostat will only set operating temp if the radiator is efficient enough, if marginal, it will find it's own operating temp, hopefully where you want it
5 - Ignition timing and radiator airflow effect it temp affect temps significantly
6 - Operating temps above 180-ish are good to get water out of the oil (oil runs hotter than water)
7 - Water boils at 212, add pressure, much higher, add antifreeze even higher, so you can go pretty high

If you are marginally happy with performance now, go 180 and be happy. If you can't get it hot and want heat for the winter,a 195 is OK too, either will be good.

[68fe360]

Antifreeze actualy lowers the boiling point some, but reduces freezing temp. Which is why your ratio should be ballanced between 50/50 - 30/70 water/antifreeze deoending on your operating conditions. If running closer to 70% antifreeze you should step up your radiator cap from the stock 13psi to a 15 psi. This will help restore the boiling point to the intended range without over presurizing the system. They were designed for 13 psi to 18 psi. If you have any older componets I wouldn't go higher then 15 psi, or you just may find out just how old they realy are.

Here in the north east I still run 50/50 with a 195 T-stat. Fans set to come on at 205 and shut off at 185. This keeps my average operating temp between 195 and 205 ish in the summer depending on how many stop lights, and traffic conditions. This seems to be a very good temp range for my 360fe. It gives good mileage, and power. Any colder and the idle suffers, and realy sucks the gas down. Plus have to get the rpms to about 1800 for decent power if it's to cold. Any hotter and gas pedle response suffers, and again starts sucking fuel down like I have a hole in the tank.

Keep it hot, but not to hot. Winter will always takes more fuel. Specialy if you live in a state ware they oxygenate fuel. The power desinty of the fuel is lower during those months. It's stupid as it only saves about a half second of cranking time on start up on a good running engine, but increases emissions. If it's not tuned well. Then the simple is answer is to tune it up in the winter. Not futs with the fuel formulations.

[My427stang]

I don't generally pick at statements, and apologize for poking, but I have never seen adding antifreeze, regardless of type, lower boiling point.

However, even if it didn't improve it, as you said, the pressure drives it well above engine temp

[68fe360]

You are right. I was tired and miss read your post and reversed it. No offense taken. I would rather it be corrected for the benefit of others.

When I lived in the central valley of California. I would run a 15 psi cap to adjust for the much higher ambient heat. Average summers was 100 or more days of 105 F +. A cool night was considered 98F. Lol I could have gotten away with increasing the amount of antifreeze, but the cap seemed a longer term sollution. Chemicals break down over time, and a failing cap is easier to replace.

Since moving to north east I dropped back down to a 13 psi and increased my mixture to 40/60 on occasion. As added protection against freezing. 90F in the summer is considered a heatwave hear. Not thqat it that it's gets that low to require it. More a matter of the extended peroids of the very low tempetures. The longer it's that cold the greater the chance of frezzing the block over a night or two. Most chemical resistence to freezing and over heat are stated for a given peroid of time, and could never find much information regarding that time frame for antifreeze.

[My427stang]

I here you there, I grew up in Springfield, MA, was stationed in Vegas in the early 2000s and didn't realize how good we had it for cooling in New England.