Power Brake Kit

[gte619n]

Hey fellas,

Just bought a '70 Ranger XLT yesterday. While I'm pretty happy with the stopping power of the drums, I'd like to have a booster to make it a little easier to drive. Does someone sell a nice bolt on kit? I found this one on eBay but I'm not sure if it's going to be crap or if it is the correct brackets, etc.

Any tips would be appreciated!

Thanks,

E

[sargentrs]

Looks correct. Not a bad price and they accept returns. Only consideration is the push rod to the pedal. Might need an adjustable rod.

[ultraranger]

You're likely to find a dual diaphragm booster with a 1.00" bore MC will make the all-wheel drums very sensitive (touchy and over reactive) to the application of the brake pedal.

A much better setup, with all-wheel drums, would be a single diaphragm booster/brackets from a '68-'72 F100/'74-'77 F100 or a single diaphragm booster/brackets from a '68-'72 F250 with all-wheel drums and then mount a '68-'72 1.00" bore MC.

A much better setup would be to install '75-'79 F100/F150 front discs/suspension with a '68-'77 F350 dual diaphragm booster and a 1-1/16" bore MC.

I have a '69 F100 Ranger that had manual 4-wheel drums when I bought it in April, 2011. After I rebuilt all four brake assemblies, I added a dual diaphragm booster (in early 2012) from a '75 F350 and installed a new, conventional style, 1.00" cast iron MC. My brakes were VERY sensitive afterwards.



A few years later (October, 2014), I pitched the front drums/suspension and installed the disc brakes/suspension from a '77 F100. I removed the cast iron 1.00" bore MC from the dual diaphragm booster and installed a new 1-1/16" bore MC for a '95 Ford Explorer. The disc/drum brake valve is for an '84-'86 Ford F150/Bronco. After these changes, the brakes work exceedingly well now.

[sargentrs]

A few years later (October, 2014), I pitched the front drums/suspension and installed the disc brakes/suspension from a '77 F100. I removed the cast iron 1.00" bore MC from the dual diaphragm booster and installed a new 1-1/16" bore MC for a '95 Ford Explorer. The disc/drum brake valve is for an '84-'86 Ford F150/Bronco. After these changes, the brakes work exceedingly well now.

I want to go this route on my truck. Hey, Steve, where did you get your prop valve or can you recommend which new one to buy? This is the only part I'm really struggling with. So many choices and I want to make sure I get one compatible.

[ultraranger]

A few years later (October, 2014), I pitched the front drums/suspension and installed the disc brakes/suspension from a '77 F100. I removed the cast iron 1.00" bore MC from the dual diaphragm booster and installed a new 1-1/16" bore MC for a '95 Ford Explorer. The disc/drum brake valve is for an '84-'86 Ford F150/Bronco. After these changes, the brakes work exceedingly well now.

I want to go this route on my truck. Hey, Steve, where did you get your prop valve or can you recommend which new one to buy? This is the only part I'm really struggling with. So many choices and I want to make sure I get one compatible.

As I mentioned, my disc/drum brake valve is for an '84-'86 F150/Bronco. It's an NOS item that was still in the Ford logo box when I bought it off Ebay in 2014. Seems like I gave $124.00 for it.

This past September, I installed an F350 dual diaphragm booster and front discs/suspension from a '75 F150 on my friend's '72 F100 LWB Sport Custom. He got a disk/drum brake valve from an '82 Bullnose F150 that I installed.

Prior to painting the dual diaphragm booster black and installing the booster in the truck, I was fabricating the valve mounting brackets and forming the brake lines to connect the '95 Explorer MC to the '82 F150 brake valve.



You could use any '73-'83 F100 or '75-'86 Ford F150 disc/drum brake valve --so long as it's still operational. There are aftermarket reproductions of the GM Weatherhead brass disc/drum brake valve that's sold by many vendors. This valve is very similar to the one Weatherhead also produced for the Ford trucks. However, I've seen numerous accounts where people report this new reproduction valve had leaking issues right out of the box so, beware.

[sargentrs]

Thanks for the info, Steve!

[gte619n]

Hey guys,

I can't seem to find a good spot to pull a vacuum line for the booster. What's the preferred method?

Thanks!

E

[Maximus]

What engine? What manifold? what carb?

these are all factors in finding proper vacuum. Short answer is you need a full manifold vacuum source, not a ported or timed source.
On an edelbrock carb the best source is the rear port on the carb, its large and typically close to the booster. Other times using a manifold vacuum location on the intake is adequate.

If you share with everyone your engine setup you will get more help on the vacuum source, a photo of the top of your motor would also help.

[colnago]

On an edelbrock carb the best source is the rear port on the carb, its large and typically close to the booster.

That's what I did on my 352. As you said, large and convenient.

Joseph

[gte619n]

The truck is currently at the upholsters getting new carpets and a redone seat! I will check the engine when I head up there next week to grab some things. Thanks!

[jjdeal79]

Great thread! Got my '72 electrics sorted and now it has to stop better....

[jjdeal79]

Well, I got some brackets, but I should have paid more attention...... I guess I was suppose to get the bracket with the actuator like this picture....

IMG_0060.JPG

I only got the sides. Would say I wasted my day, but it was raining.....

[jjdeal79]

as far as I know, through a day of searching, the 68-72 and 73-77 single diaphragm boosters are all firewall mounted.
at least that is what is available in my area.

I have a 72 F-100. It has a non-adjustable pushrod.

I picked up one with part number 5473512, that should fit, but the bolt holes do not line up. You can find on napa and auto zone websites. The bolts are attached, you have to put a nut on from the inside of the cab. With some rough measurements, the pushrod appears to be at least one inch longer than the old manual master cylinder. The brake switch contact point can move, but not that much.

[My427stang]

I used the OP's Ebay version and it worked great on my 71 4x4. It used the threaded rod end pushrod and came with the bellcrank, but I sold it on Ebay.

I replaced the stock 8.75 from a 71 2WD that I still have. I would consider it no good, but guys like Booster Dewey can rebuild if someone looking for a stock setup, it has a recent M/C.

FYI, the nicest thing about that Pirate Jack one, is that if you switch line nuts front to back, it's a pure bolt on and doesn't need any brass fitting adapters. Even the stockers werent that clean

I run mine on a 4 wheel drum, 32 inch tires, 4x4 and it stops great, even with a big cam in the 445

[jjdeal79]

I WAS WRONG!!!!! I can admit it.....

Ok, much frustration last night. I had the bracket in the wrong direction. It will work as the second post mentions. My pushrod will be in almost the exact same place, just a tad short. I'll have to work on some sort of seal, but that's the last of my worries.

Now if that parts salesman would have listened, he would have sold me the correct wheel cylinders.

Happy Fourth everyone!