Hey all, 1970 f100, 302.
Hoping the expertise I've experienced on this site can once again help me..
I have a 3 on the tree column, which I want to keep. The truck has first gear, but when I go to shift into 2nd or 3rd, it's like there's nothing there. I can shift the gears by hand at the tranny, but there's no movement at the linkage foward of the firewall when shifting inside the cab.
Was hoping someone could give me an idea where to start or what part/parts may have failed. I've never attempted to get inside a steering column, let alone repair one so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance from a blue brother
P.s. I've priced new, reman, and used columns on line
Waaaaay out of my limited budget
Help with 3spd on tree
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- MAK
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Re: Help with 3spd on tree
Have you read through the Tech Article here yet? http://fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm
Sounds like something is worn out. Did you just purchase the truck and it's been like that since you got it or had it been shifting and something happened?
When I converted to power steering I had mine disassembled and replaced several components. Not too difficult and I just took lots of pics during the process. Prior to the change mine was getting worn and I was having trouble going 1st to 2nd.
Sounds like something is worn out. Did you just purchase the truck and it's been like that since you got it or had it been shifting and something happened?
When I converted to power steering I had mine disassembled and replaced several components. Not too difficult and I just took lots of pics during the process. Prior to the change mine was getting worn and I was having trouble going 1st to 2nd.
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Re: Help with 3spd on tree
Thanks, it was definitely sloppy when I bought the truck, so figure it finally gave out. I bought the truck a year ago. I'll definitely check out the link.
Appreciate ya bud
Appreciate ya bud
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Re: Help with 3spd on tree
I did mine last winter. It is a bit time-consuming the first time through, but not very difficult. The threads here are helpful, and the parts you need are available from Dennis Carpenter and other popular vendors. Just pay attention as you take it apart-the parts really only fit one way, so if you don't get it right it won't fit together, which will give you the opportunity to do it again. If you mess it up enough times you will become quite knowledgeable about it.
If you don't need the truck right away, consider taking it apart before ordering the parts. The column in mine, it turned out, was from a more recent model year and had some different bushings, and I was not aware of this until after I had purchased the parts and dismantled it.
Be careful removing the shaft from the steering gear box so you don't damage the splines, and also when removing the steering wheel, so you don't damage the threads. Steering shafts are expensive and difficult to find and, as far as I could tell, nobody makes new ones.
Also, be careful with the shifter collar-it is made of cheap metal and may be broken by rough handling.
The square-head bolts that hold the shift collar on can be a challenge. After several failed attempts, I managed to hold mine in place with some tacky, gum-like stuff I had around the garage-chewing gum should also work.
Mind the gap between the steering wheel and the shift collar-if it is too wide your turn signal canceling cam on the steering wheel won't engage with the "ears" on the switch and your turn signals won't cancel.
Don't lose the pin that holds the shifter in place because, as far as I know, they aren't readily available. You could substitute a screw, perhaps, but it is nice to have the right part if possible. Consider a new shifter insulator, the piece of rubbery stuff on the end of the shifter where it goes into the collar.
While you have it apart you might consider changing the turn signal switch-you will have it out anyway, and the canceling "ears" on the originals get brittle with age.
If your column boot is worn, or if you damage it getting it out, you may want a new one. There are two kinds depending on the model year, but I think they are interchangeable-one kind covers the hole in the firewall more completely. Make sure you put this on the right way or you will have to take it all apart again to get it right.
Finally, consider replacing the bushings and clips that connect the lever arms to the shifter linkage-I believe that there are clips at the transmission end as well.
Good luck with the project-keep us posted, and feel free to write in if you need some help.
If you don't need the truck right away, consider taking it apart before ordering the parts. The column in mine, it turned out, was from a more recent model year and had some different bushings, and I was not aware of this until after I had purchased the parts and dismantled it.
Be careful removing the shaft from the steering gear box so you don't damage the splines, and also when removing the steering wheel, so you don't damage the threads. Steering shafts are expensive and difficult to find and, as far as I could tell, nobody makes new ones.
Also, be careful with the shifter collar-it is made of cheap metal and may be broken by rough handling.
The square-head bolts that hold the shift collar on can be a challenge. After several failed attempts, I managed to hold mine in place with some tacky, gum-like stuff I had around the garage-chewing gum should also work.
Mind the gap between the steering wheel and the shift collar-if it is too wide your turn signal canceling cam on the steering wheel won't engage with the "ears" on the switch and your turn signals won't cancel.
Don't lose the pin that holds the shifter in place because, as far as I know, they aren't readily available. You could substitute a screw, perhaps, but it is nice to have the right part if possible. Consider a new shifter insulator, the piece of rubbery stuff on the end of the shifter where it goes into the collar.
While you have it apart you might consider changing the turn signal switch-you will have it out anyway, and the canceling "ears" on the originals get brittle with age.
If your column boot is worn, or if you damage it getting it out, you may want a new one. There are two kinds depending on the model year, but I think they are interchangeable-one kind covers the hole in the firewall more completely. Make sure you put this on the right way or you will have to take it all apart again to get it right.
Finally, consider replacing the bushings and clips that connect the lever arms to the shifter linkage-I believe that there are clips at the transmission end as well.
Good luck with the project-keep us posted, and feel free to write in if you need some help.
Fred
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
- sargentrs
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Re: Help with 3spd on tree
This might also give you a little insight into what you're in for http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=72274 It's an automatic column but the 3 spd is very similar. One thing I did figure out the hard way. Put the rubber boot and the inside mounting plate on BEFORE you put the levers in the bottom of the column. You'll never get them both on afterwards. Don't ask me how I know
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Help with 3spd on tree
Yes, sargentrs, I learned that lesson, too. The wrong way looked better for some reason, so, even though I read about it, perhaps from your thread, I still did it wrong. Because of mistakes and incorrect parts (as I said in my previous reply, the column was not original) I got to take mine apart and reassemble it 3 times. By the time I got it all right I knew its workings quite well. If it ever craps out again I will be able to fix it up in a jiffy.
Fred
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
- 91Bear
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Re: Help with 3spd on tree
I always think that but when it comes time to replace it again I have forgotten everything I learned before.71Fe2O3 wrote:Yes, sargentrs, I learned that lesson, too. The wrong way looked better for some reason, so, even though I read about it, perhaps from your thread, I still did it wrong. Because of mistakes and incorrect parts (as I said in my previous reply, the column was not original) I got to take mine apart and reassemble it 3 times. By the time I got it all right I knew its workings quite well. If it ever craps out again I will be able to fix it up in a jiffy.