I'm trying to assemble the ultimate toolbox to keep behind the seat for roadside recovery. I'd like it all to fit into a box the size of an ammo box and be able to handle most common breakdowns without taking up much room in the cab. So far I have:
Vice Grips
Pliers
Crescent wrench
Philips head screwdriver (longish handle)
Flat head screwdriver (longish handle)
Combination wrenches (3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8)
Ratchet + sockets (3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8)
Band clamps
Extra fan belt
Extra thermostat
Tube of black RTV
Anything else you can think of?
Dave
‘65 F-100 (240) Former military truck ‘70 F-100 (360) restoring with my son
Great suggestions. Of course zip ties, hose and wire. Forgot 7/16 as well. Any other odd sizes of nut? I seem to remember that modern replacement wheel cylinders use metric. Maybe an 11mm? Whatever it is, a 1/2 won't fit it. It always trips me up.
Also, I just thought of some gas/oil resistant teflon tape. The yellow stuff.
Dave
‘65 F-100 (240) Former military truck ‘70 F-100 (360) restoring with my son
Chuck the spare thermostat. If it fails, you can get by without it. Make sure the tube of RTV is new, unopened. 7/16 and 9/16 tools. Make sure all sockets are six-point. A socket that actually fits yer lugnuts. Spark plug socket and tool for pulling plug wires. Jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends. Fittings to splice ruptured/leaking hoses and lines.
There are some short length 3/8 drive breaker bars with a female fitting for an extension on the end.
That breaker bar, and several different length 3/8 drive extensions, and there won't be a nut you can't loosen.
Great call on the tools. But, if the thermostat fails closed and you have to remove it anyway, might as well put in a new one while you're in there right? Keeps you from opening it up again when you get home.
Dave
‘65 F-100 (240) Former military truck ‘70 F-100 (360) restoring with my son
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
The comment about an extra set of points and condenser is important even if you have electronic ignition (pertronix for example). Should the electronic ignition fail, you can always revert back to a points based ignition. Can use a matchbook cover, or similar, to set the dwell and do a static timing to get it to a point where it will start. Move the distributor until the idle speed is close to what it originally was. That should get you close enough to be able to drive home. If pinging, retard till it does not ping under medium acceleration.
Make sure you have an extra length of 16 gauge wire to run back to the coil, or for other wire replacement needs.
