Replacement radiator

[Old+Blue]

Hi again.
The truck's engine is back in after being rebuilt by Jasper. Purrs like a kitten.
Radiator is leaking from a seam.
We tried all the local parts places, and also tried LMC truck.
No luck.
Any of y'all got a for-sale radiator for a '67 F100 2WD Auto 352?
Or know where to go to find one?
Thanks a lot

[jimmy828]

Are you wanting to use the OEM style radiator? Several vendors have a look a-like but it's made from aluminum not copper. I used a Champion 3 row myself and it fit just like the old OEM rad i took out.

[Old+Blue]

Thank you. I think I’d prefer an OEM one but I’d more prefer to get it on the road

[cep62]

Any radiator shops in your area ?
they might be able to solder it ,and run a lower pressure cap.

[basketcase0302]

="Old+Blue"Hi again.
The truck's engine is back in after being rebuilt by Jasper. Purrs like a kitten.
Radiator is leaking from a seam.
We tried all the local parts places, and also tried LMC truck.
No luck.
Any of y'all got a for-sale radiator for a '67 F100 2WD Auto 352?
Or know where to go to find one?
Thanks a lot

That would be a red flag for me, (if the "new" rebuilt engine is running hotter the pressure has gone up causing that leak)!
Make sure you have an accurate mechanical temperature gauge, (it's the most important thing you can do for that new engine besides a mechanical oil pressure gauge). Way...too much money invested into a rebuild for any kind of issue to shorten it's life.

And like CEP said if you're anywhere near a decent sized city you'll find a radiator shop that should be able to repair your OEM, (or even quote you on a complete flush/repair job with a warranty.

[Old+Blue]

That's a good point that I hadn't thought of, thank you.
I drove the truck only maybe 15 miles before the engine removal so I really don't know if it was running hot before.
It _was_ already leaking when I got it.
Is there a reason not simply add some Bar's Leaks Stop Leak, as a stop-gap while I look for a radiator shop?
As far as I know, the closest shop is about a 90 minute drive...

[basketcase0302]

"Old+Blue"That's a good point that I hadn't thought of, thank you.
I drove the truck only maybe 15 miles before the engine removal so I really don't know if it was running hot before.
It _was_ already leaking when I got it.
Is there a reason not simply add some Bar's Leaks Stop Leak, as a stop-gap while I look for a radiator shop?
As far as I know, the closest shop is about a 90 minute drive...

Maybe get a few more opinions on using bars leak, (I've used some extremes to stop leaks).
Picture being 10 miles out in the swamp and a radiator leak develops and all you have is your food for a hunting camp, (egg whites and or/black pepper more than once).
And I've used Bars Leak, (against advice of some folks it "clogs" internals of an engine-not real good for it.
But if it were my brand new engine...I'd weight on the side of caution.

[Old+Blue]

I tried the best rated radiator shop, and a few others. No luck. The best I could get was a minimum of $550, _if_ it could actually be rebuilt. Couldn’t find a replacement in stock anywhere. So I’ve ordered one from US Radiator. Pricey but I can get it on the road.
Thanks for all the help.

[DisneysPatB]

You could have gotten an aluminum Champion off EBay for half that shipped.

[Old+Blue]

Well heck, I never even thought of looking on eBay. I will next time!
Appreciate the help.