Hi everyone,
My passenger door never really closed well. And the previous owner said to slam it shut. Well I did that about 3 times before it stopped shutting all together. It only closed on the first stage.
Well I took it apart and it at first the top latch was always closed and the bottom one was the only one closing. When I un-jammed the top latch I found out that whenever you pull the lever to open the mechanism it doesn’t return because it looks like the spring is broken. The bottom latch does have a spring around it.
I can’t go any further because I can’t open these weird Phillips screw/bolts.
Any ideas on what to do? No one really sells these latches (at a decent price) or parts for them. If anyone has used any good aftermarket ones let me know but everything I’ve seen is $100+ per latch.
Will get more pics of the top latch service sucks and no power currently in my town in CT.
Bottom latch:
Door latch issues - top half doesn’t return.
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Door latch issues - top half doesn’t return.
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
- basketcase0302
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Re: Door latch issues - top half doesn’t return.
"crazzmc"]Hi everyone,
My passenger door never really closed well. And the previous owner said to slam it shut. Well I did that about 3 times before it stopped shutting all together. It only closed on the first stage.
Well I took it apart and it at first the top latch was always closed and the bottom one was the only one closing. When I un-jammed the top latch I found out that whenever you pull the lever to open the mechanism it doesn’t return because it looks like the spring is broken. The bottom latch does have a spring around it.
I can’t go any further because I can’t open these weird Phillips screw/bolts.
Any ideas on what to do? No one really sells these latches (at a decent price) or parts for them. If anyone has used any good aftermarket ones let me know but everything I’ve seen is $100+ per latch.
Will get more pics of the top latch service sucks and no power currently in my town in CT.
Bottom latch:
On a side note I'd look at the door strike real....hard as that is a known issue on the doors most folks forget to address. It is "adjustable" to an extent to help with closing the door, (loosen CC / move slightly / re-tighten / repeat until you find a sweet spot for the door). Also look closely at the hinges as if they are wore out your literally beating your head against a wall working on the latch as you'll destroy the new one in a short time.
I would start here, (there are dozens here to reach out to in search of it-ask away) in search of sourcing a used one, (ebay destroyed our used parts market with their "super sellers") and also put an ad in the Wanted parts here on Fordification:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=11
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: Door latch issues - top half doesn’t return.
If the spring is actually broken, and you have any Pick'n'Pull yards in your area, I would just go get one out of a donor truck.
But if it's too gunged up to be able to tell, soak it in some lacquer thinner, simple green (whatever you have on hand), give it a good scrubdown & rinse, and then hose it down with an aerosol can of white lithium grease.
**Cannot confirm, but I wouldn't be surprised if the dentsides use the same latch assembly (take yours along for comparison)
But if it's too gunged up to be able to tell, soak it in some lacquer thinner, simple green (whatever you have on hand), give it a good scrubdown & rinse, and then hose it down with an aerosol can of white lithium grease.
**Cannot confirm, but I wouldn't be surprised if the dentsides use the same latch assembly (take yours along for comparison)
- sargentrs
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Re: Door latch issues - top half doesn’t return.
Only $30 at Dennis Carpenter http://dennis-carpenter.com/m/product.a ... -9721812-A
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.