Big Country project thread

[bbyrnes1]

Alright guys I've seen other project threads on here that have been hugely helpful, so I figured I'd start my own.

I had a local shop do the welding on the cab.

312835_240193022708292_167971295_n.jpg

310244_230398243687770_550046889_n.jpg

382193_240244362703158_1875323186_n.jpg

[bbyrnes1]

58051_131686536892275_1463948_n.jpg

After some time enjoying it, I undid all the hack-job wiring that the previous owners thought was a good idea, changed every fluid that the truck has in it, found a good set of aluminum 15's and some basically brand new used 31x10.50x15 tires, and put a Pertronix Ignitor in the engine. Also put a new 2" exhaust behind the 240 with a Flowmaster 40 series. It was a nice decrease in volume from the muffler-less exhaust when I bought it, but now the 40-series is wearing on me, especially with no sound-deadening. I will be switching to probably a 50-series when I put a new exhaust behind it, as well as a 2.5" exhaust.

After MONTHS of fighting with the horrendous brake system stopping me in every direction but straight, I finally dumped all of it and replaced the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, and went with a complete stainless steel brake line kit from Inline Tubing.

After enjoying it on sunny days, I ended up getting caught in a few bad storms, and realized that there's some serious leaks that need to be addressed.

[bbyrnes1]

After taking the heater box and firewall pad out, I quickly realized the firewall at the seams where it's spot-welded to the kick panels, cowl, and toe-board is pretty rotten.

20130612_160653.jpg

20130612_160617.jpg

20130612_160723.jpg

Instead of doing a band-aid job using fiberglass and seam sealer, I decided (after seeing Flyboy's awesome cowl removal job) that the best way to do it would be to remove the firewall.

[bbyrnes1]

So I started tearing everything forward of the firewall off to be able to get to it.

20130620_195222.jpg

20130622_085113.jpg

20130622_144117.jpg

[bbyrnes1]

20130622_144206.jpg

Now I'm working on gutting the interior. Started by taking everything mounted to the firewall out and everything mounted to the dash.

20130623_180122.jpg

This is how it currently sits. I'm still working on getting the wiring harness out, and still need to take the steering column, master cylinder, emergency brake pedal, seat and gas tank out.

Once these are removed and the spot welds are removed out of the firewall and repairs done and spot-welded back into place, the glass will be coming out and the cab will be getting sandblasted. I am saving all this until last because I'm doing this entirely in my driveway under a 10x20 canopy.

[jimmy828]

looks like you are moving along good . Them canopies are helpful. I bought one just to use as paint booth. Worked pretty good when it got closed in.

[bbyrnes1]

So here's what I'm working with on the firewall.

low pass.jpg

driver.jpg

master.jpg

The seam above the master cylinder is completely separated from the bottom cowl. I'm not sure where to go at this point. I could cut out the spot welds, but I don't know how I can get my drill to the spot welds in some places. I could try using a torch and heating up the welds and prying the panels apart, but I might burn away the sealant on the other side of the seam that way. Or I could cut the firewall away around the perimeter.

Any advise?

[elgemcdlf]

Being in GA why not just shop for a replacement cab? You should be able to find a much cleaner unit fairly easily.

[bbyrnes1]

Considering I already have a couple hundred bucks already invested in this cab having the floorpans and rear cab corners fixed, I'm not going to abandon it unless I strike gold.

So, anybody got any advise for this firewall? Just fiberglass the heck out of it?

[bbyrnes1]

New plan.

I borrowed this pic from 67mann for demonstration purposes. Thanks

cab cut.jpg

I'm going to use a 67 truck I found in a yard that has a good firewall and cut the a-pillars and floor all the way through the rockers and snag the whole front of the cab. This way I can actually get to the good donor firewall to cut it out, or I might even go as far as to patch in the whole front section onto my cab, since the bottom cowl on mine has rusted away with the firewall seam also. I'd then patch in my original 69 dash parts where it's different on a 67, or possibly do a whole dash swap, since my dash except for a little boogering up around the radio is cherry. This truck might also have a bed worth getting also to replace mine.

[fonfixer]

what was the quality of the replacement floorpans you used? were you satisfied with them? where'd you get them? any advice?

thanks
doug

[bbyrnes1]

I got them from LMC. They were fine. Just don't be an idjit like me and pay a mechanic shop to install them.

[elgemcdlf]

New plan.

I borrowed this pic from 67mann for demonstration purposes. Thanks

cab cut.jpg

I'm going to use a 67 truck I found in a yard that has a good firewall and cut the a-pillars and floor all the way through the rockers and snag the whole front of the cab. This way I can actually get to the good donor firewall to cut it out, or I might even go as far as to patch in the whole front section onto my cab, since the bottom cowl on mine has rusted away with the firewall seam also. I'd then patch in my original 69 dash parts where it's different on a 67, or possibly do a whole dash swap, since my dash except for a little boogering up around the radio is cherry. This truck might also have a bed worth getting also to replace mine.

Why not just use the entire cab? Sounds like a ton of work when the potential repairs. Are you trying to save a lost cause over refusing to accept a couple hundred dollar loss on investment?

[bbyrnes1]

Honestly I'm trying to save a lost cause. This cab sucks worse than mine did in the floors and kick panels, but it has a good firewall. You must know me. I'm planning on just fiberglassing my firewall and being done with it. I'm just bummed about not being able to find a good cab and that I've already invested in new floors and cab corners.

[elgemcdlf]

Well Brandon sometimes we all backtrack a bit. I seen a movie once where a guy was chasing after this other guy for $20. An older gentleman told him to cut his losses & consider it a good lesson at a fair price. I wouldn't put any more money into the cab. Instead save the money you would have spent & use it for a good cab. Yes you may have to do some floor work & front cab mounts but patience is your friend. There is a thread on here about scrapped trucks. There is a beautiful F600 (same cab & doors) that the guy is asking $2500 for. Al down in TX is looking for the front fenders. Fred in Anderson, MO is also looking for F600 front sheet metal. I have no idea what the fenders are worth but the truck is an old fire truck. Can we say "I can actually believe it to be ultra low mileage"? The truck is located in Athens, GA, less than 200 miles from you. The link to the thread is http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 27&start=0 If you do not want the doors I would be interested in them. Part out the rest of the 600 & you may be surprised how cheaply you get a great cab for.