changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
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changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
Hello everyone, im looking for some help in changing my rear heel bearings, as far as ive gotten is buying all bearings and removing both rear wheels and drums, was hoping for a few tips in what needs to be done. I bought new seals and a new screw that the auto parts guy said i should replace. Thank you for any help. Kevin
- elgemcdlf
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
No idea what screw you are referring to. You will see a hole in the end of the axle. That is for access to the mount bolts. There are 4 of them. Take 1 nut off, rotate the axle, take a nut off ... until you have all 4 off. You might need a slide hammer to gently tug at the axle to dislodge it but it will just pull right out. You now need to press the old bearing & lock ring off. Remove the seal & replace with the new 1. Be sure to lubricate it. Press new bearing & lock ring onto the axle & put the truck back together. You may need to disassemble the brakes. I don't remember & it has been many years since I have done this. Something like 20yrs
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
Pressing Axle Bearings on/off.
1. This is the 20-ton press and bearing separator I have in my shop. (Axle with old bearing/bearing retainer being used for illustration purposes).
2. Place the separator around the bearing and invert the axle into the press to remove old bearing/retainer.
3. Old bearing/retainer removed from axle.
4. Slide the axle retainer on (the stamped steel piece that has (4) bolt holes in it), then slide the new bearing onto axle and press the new bearing on. (DO NOT press the bearing retainer on at the same time the bearing is being pressed onto the axle!!).
5. New bearing pressed on. (ok, it's really just an old bearing but pretend it's a new one).
6. Slide the bearing retainer onto the axle...
7. ...and press it until it bottoms out against the axle bearing.
8. Bearing and bearing retainer pressed on, ready to reinstall the axle into the rear end housing.
Both the axle bearing and the axle bearing retainer are interference-fit components. They are both machined with tight tolerances and the act of pressing them onto an axle journal stretches them, to a degree. This means putting them on an axle is a one-shot proposition. If you put new axle bearings on and then for some reason had to press them back off, throw them away and get new ones --even if the new bearings have never used. Once they are stretched, they will never have the tight tolerance/correct interference fit again, after being pressed.
1. This is the 20-ton press and bearing separator I have in my shop. (Axle with old bearing/bearing retainer being used for illustration purposes).
2. Place the separator around the bearing and invert the axle into the press to remove old bearing/retainer.
3. Old bearing/retainer removed from axle.
4. Slide the axle retainer on (the stamped steel piece that has (4) bolt holes in it), then slide the new bearing onto axle and press the new bearing on. (DO NOT press the bearing retainer on at the same time the bearing is being pressed onto the axle!!).
5. New bearing pressed on. (ok, it's really just an old bearing but pretend it's a new one).
6. Slide the bearing retainer onto the axle...
7. ...and press it until it bottoms out against the axle bearing.
8. Bearing and bearing retainer pressed on, ready to reinstall the axle into the rear end housing.
Both the axle bearing and the axle bearing retainer are interference-fit components. They are both machined with tight tolerances and the act of pressing them onto an axle journal stretches them, to a degree. This means putting them on an axle is a one-shot proposition. If you put new axle bearings on and then for some reason had to press them back off, throw them away and get new ones --even if the new bearings have never used. Once they are stretched, they will never have the tight tolerance/correct interference fit again, after being pressed.
Last edited by ultraranger on Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:52 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Steve
1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.
1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.
2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.
1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.
2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
- elgemcdlf
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
The last pic shows the access hole I was talking about. You can see it next to the stud on the right.
- BobbyFord
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
After you take out the 4 bolts holding the bearing retainer, put the drum back on the axle flange backwards and put three lugnuts on about two turns and use the drum as the slidehammer to persuade the axle out.
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
...or, the method I prefer...a good ol' slide hammer, since some axles are really stubborn and don't want to let go of the housing.
...of course, these photos of the '79 Versailles disc brake 9-inch rear are 'staged,' but you get the idea.
...of course, these photos of the '79 Versailles disc brake 9-inch rear are 'staged,' but you get the idea.
Steve
1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.
1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.
2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.
1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.
2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
- elgemcdlf
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
It's been so long for me I forgot all about that little trick.BobbyFord wrote:After you take out the 4 bolts holding the bearing retainer, put the drum back on the axle flange backwards and put three lugnuts on about two turns and use the drum as the slidehammer to persuade the axle out.
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
Another lil' tip-------if you use an air chisel to knock the retainer ring off first, it will allow the bearing to come off with less pressure, thus keeping all the press aid's from flying all over the place as the press jumps off the floor ...........Donnie
- elgemcdlf
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
Do not do this. When I worked professionally as a mechanic this is the way we removed the ring & bearing. I had a ring shatter & spray my face with tiny pieces of steel. I am still picking out pieces when they come to the surface over 20 yrs later.Donnie wrote:Another lil' tip-------if you use an air chisel to knock the retainer ring off first, it will allow the bearing to come off with less pressure, thus keeping all the press aid's from flying all over the place as the press jumps off the floor ...........Donnie
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
Yikes ! ! ! .....sorry to hear that...How did this happen? What shattered the retaining ring or the Chisel ? Donnie
- elgemcdlf
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
The retaining ring. I had probably done hundreds of bearings that way. It's faster. I had a ton of tiny pin holes in my face bleeding. If you can imagine all at once your entire face starts bleeding. They were all tiny holes so they clotted up quick but for that short moment I image it was quite the sight to see.
- basketcase0302
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
It only takes seeing this happen once to learn how to "skin a cat" a different way. I was very lucky-as I saw the bearing separator and flat pieces of steel fly past me and to the other side of my shop!thus keeping all the press aid's from flying all over the place as the press jumps off the floor ...........Donnie
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- DirtyJim
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
BobbyFord wrote:After you take out the 4 bolts holding the bearing retainer, put the drum back on the axle flange backwards and put three lugnuts on about two turns and use the drum as the slidehammer to persuade the axle out.
Bobby...is there any of part of this truck you havent disassembled yet? It's neat to see you post on almost every single question regarding tearing these trucks apart.
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
I think I've probably taken out every bolt at one time or another.DirtyJim wrote:BobbyFord wrote:After you take out the 4 bolts holding the bearing retainer, put the drum back on the axle flange backwards and put three lugnuts on about two turns and use the drum as the slidehammer to persuade the axle out.
Bobby...is there any of part of this truck you havent disassembled yet? It's neat to see you post on almost every single question regarding tearing these trucks apart.
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Re: changing 72 rear wheel bearing 9inch
thank you all, you all really know your stuff !! i was able to get the job done because of all your posts, i did use the press like the one in the pictures, had to cut one bearing off (race broke). i also removed the differential to check and change the oil, looked like brand new. everything is back together and running great, now its time to do the front wheel bearings. again thanks for all your help. kevin