Trans seal
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- wildcard
- Blue Oval Guru
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Trans seal
71 with a 300 and 3 speed manual shift. I need to change the seal in the rear of my trans. I was wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions before I get into it. Does the castle nut have to come off, and does it have to go back on any certain amount or just snug it up?
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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Re: Trans seal
300 6 banger, 3 speed, CASTLE nut???????????????? am I missing something here? Donnie
- wildcard
- Blue Oval Guru
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- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:40 pm
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Re: Trans seal
That's what it had. It now has a self-locking nut on it.
Got the seal in but it still has a small leak. I'm ordering a sleeve to go on the yoke Monday.
Got the seal in but it still has a small leak. I'm ordering a sleeve to go on the yoke Monday.
- michael69
- Blue Oval Guru
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Re: Trans seal
Yea if the yoke had a grove in it, it will still leak some.
Michael69
'69 Ranger 'F-100 2WD SWB 351W C6 AUTO
1985 CJ 7 jeep w/35s
1967 SS Chevelle 502 4 speed
2003 Heritage softail w/110 cubic inch screamin eagle kit
'69 Ranger 'F-100 2WD SWB 351W C6 AUTO
1985 CJ 7 jeep w/35s
1967 SS Chevelle 502 4 speed
2003 Heritage softail w/110 cubic inch screamin eagle kit
- wildcard
- Blue Oval Guru
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- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:40 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: Trans seal
The goove was small enough that you couldn't tell it was there by sight. But you can feel it with a finger. Hopefully a sleeve will cure it.
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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Re: Trans seal
Put a dab of your favorite RTV on the frontside of the nut before installing it . Some times the oel will wick along the splines & weep a bit. Donnie
- wildcard
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- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:40 pm
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Re: Trans seal
Can't find a sleeve. Transmission shop says they don't make one for the yoke and parts stores all tell me they can't get one. So,I'll go ahead and get a new yoke.
Can someone tell me what trans I might possibly have ? As far as I know, it came from the factory. There doesn't seem to be an ID tag on it anywhere I can see. And that's all I can tell you because I know absolutely nothing about transmissions. Except how to change the output shaft seal, how to add and drain the oil and to replace the yoke. Thanks
Can someone tell me what trans I might possibly have ? As far as I know, it came from the factory. There doesn't seem to be an ID tag on it anywhere I can see. And that's all I can tell you because I know absolutely nothing about transmissions. Except how to change the output shaft seal, how to add and drain the oil and to replace the yoke. Thanks
- wildcard
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:40 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: Trans seal
OK, found a 50+ yr old parts store with an old timer who fixed me up with the correct trans seal AND a sleeve for the yoke. Got them in and no more leaks. I thank y'all for your advice and thoughts.
- michael69
- Blue Oval Guru
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- Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 8:53 pm
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Re: Trans seal
Glad you got it fixed. Yea those parts places are dying out. I have one left in my next town over,but the old guy is talking about retirement and closing down.
Michael69
'69 Ranger 'F-100 2WD SWB 351W C6 AUTO
1985 CJ 7 jeep w/35s
1967 SS Chevelle 502 4 speed
2003 Heritage softail w/110 cubic inch screamin eagle kit
'69 Ranger 'F-100 2WD SWB 351W C6 AUTO
1985 CJ 7 jeep w/35s
1967 SS Chevelle 502 4 speed
2003 Heritage softail w/110 cubic inch screamin eagle kit
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- Blue Oval Fan
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- Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2011 5:50 pm
Re: Trans seal
i have to do this on my truck as well. 3 speed manual leaking at the input shaft. glad you got her fixed, going to hit up some of the ol school fe guys and see if they have one
- wildcard
- Blue Oval Guru
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- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:40 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: Trans seal
The yoke shaft seal I got was a National brand. # 470059 and the yoke sleeve was National also, # 99149. For a 1.497" to a 1.503" shaft.
If you're putting on the yoke sleeve also, I found a trick that worked for me. It comes with a "cup" about an 1" or so deep. The yoke shaft is about 4" long. The cup is to get the sleeve started straight. A light coat of oil or grease makes it a little easier. Put the sleeve on shoulder end first, put the cap over the sleeve, and tap it down as far as the cup will allow. I couldn't find anything else to go over the sleeve to go the rest of the way down. So, I put a cutting disc on my grinder, could use a hacksaw I suppose, and cut about 1/8" off the top of the cup. (I knew this would fit perfectly since it was made to go over the sleeve.) After smoothing the rough edge from the cutting, I slid it down to the shoulder of the sleeve and held it semi-tight with a pair of channel locks. Alternately tapping on the jaws of the pliers, then turning the cup 90 degrees and tapping some more. Eventually , with patience, it will go all the way. Afterwards, I wiped off the grease and smoothed the rest of the shaft with emery cloth.
That just takes a little practice to decide how tight to squeeze the channel locks. Just be careful not to hit the pliers so hard they slide down and damage the sleeve.
Hope this helps someone else trying to put a sleeve on without the "correct" tools available.
If you're putting on the yoke sleeve also, I found a trick that worked for me. It comes with a "cup" about an 1" or so deep. The yoke shaft is about 4" long. The cup is to get the sleeve started straight. A light coat of oil or grease makes it a little easier. Put the sleeve on shoulder end first, put the cap over the sleeve, and tap it down as far as the cup will allow. I couldn't find anything else to go over the sleeve to go the rest of the way down. So, I put a cutting disc on my grinder, could use a hacksaw I suppose, and cut about 1/8" off the top of the cup. (I knew this would fit perfectly since it was made to go over the sleeve.) After smoothing the rough edge from the cutting, I slid it down to the shoulder of the sleeve and held it semi-tight with a pair of channel locks. Alternately tapping on the jaws of the pliers, then turning the cup 90 degrees and tapping some more. Eventually , with patience, it will go all the way. Afterwards, I wiped off the grease and smoothed the rest of the shaft with emery cloth.
That just takes a little practice to decide how tight to squeeze the channel locks. Just be careful not to hit the pliers so hard they slide down and damage the sleeve.
Hope this helps someone else trying to put a sleeve on without the "correct" tools available.