Adjusting my clutch

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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Mancar1
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by Mancar1 »

If it is stuck in 1st. Sounds like your linkage may be binding, the bushings/grommlets may be worn out. The clutch adjustment is not on the tranny. I have a hard time trying to explain it. Do you have a manual? You should be able to go online and search for how to adjust a clutch.
May your sails stay full, and your knots not slip. Unless a slip knot.
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390Nut
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by 390Nut »

There is an adjustment bar for the clutch on the drivers side of the transmission. It is basically a threaded rod with a long rounded point on one end, and an eye ring on the other. There should be a nut on it, just loosen that nut and turn the end. Just like a bolt/nut, lefty loosey-righty tighty, loosening it up will DECREASE the slack in the clutch linkage.

Make sure you check all your clutch linkage for wear. There are nylon bushings inside the equalizer bar (mounts between the frame and the engine/tranny assembly) that help maintain the integrity of the linkage, see if there is any play in the equalizer bar.
Paul
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`69 F100 390 4spd driver
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Mancar1
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by Mancar1 »

Thanks 390Nut :yt: Doing it and explaining it are 2 different animals.
May your sails stay full, and your knots not slip. Unless a slip knot.
Once I thought I was wrong, but I was wrong.
Life is a banquet, and every days a feast.
68 F-250 CS 390 C-6 P/S A/C front disc. 2nd owner.
2016 GMC Terrain Denali 301 HP V-6 AWD.
2009 Silverado Crew Cab, V-8, 4X4.
DD-727
DD-806
AE-35
LSD-39
AS-41
AR-8
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Fordman5
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by Fordman5 »

I also found out that the Clutch return spring was on backwards and hooked on the frame toward the back of the truck bent around the frame to an open hole. Got that fixed, but it shudders a bit when you release the clutch slow and not enough gas, but shifts well other wise.
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390Nut
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by 390Nut »

Sounds like the clutch is getting worn, and/or you might have heat fractures/glazing on the flywheel. You can pull the inspection cover off the bottom of the bellhousing and use a flashlight to inspect the internals. Have someone push the clutch pedal while you are under there (make sure the parking brake is set, and you got a wheel chocked!) so you can see how everything works, and get a glimpse of the flywheel surface.

Check the throwout bearing as well. You can also do this with the truck running if you are skinny like me, and a second person holding their foot on the brake pedal also (to keep you safe while you're under there). Leave the truck in neutral and have them work the clutch pedal both directions to see if the throwout bearing is tight and not grinding/loose. If the throwout bearing has a grease fitting, lube it up LIGHTLYT (I do this every year when I lube the rest of the trucks zerk fittings) some of them are designed NOT to be greased, and once the grease is gone, they wear out.

DONT do this if you need to lift the truck to get under there. It's just a bad idea all around. :thup:
Paul
Image
`69 F100 390 4spd driver
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10251
Dura-Spark II Conversion info at:
http://home.comcast.net/~390nut/Dura-SparkII.htm

Pipes71 did once say, "bumps and bikes.. what a great combo!" :thup:
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by Fordman5 »

Thanks 390, I plan to run it for a while and drop the tranny and redo the clutch soon.
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390Nut
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Re: Adjusting my clutch

Post by 390Nut »

Cool. Just make sure you get the flywheel surfaced, and check the ring gear for wear. These can be taken off and reversed, so if you have worn teeth from the starter drive gear, you can fix that while it's apart.
Paul
Image
`69 F100 390 4spd driver
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10251
Dura-Spark II Conversion info at:
http://home.comcast.net/~390nut/Dura-SparkII.htm

Pipes71 did once say, "bumps and bikes.. what a great combo!" :thup:
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