Ever have to mess with an M5R1 that some idiot got to first ? I got the guts back together and end play right no problem . The whole shifter assembly is just a bunch of bent parts , plastic top and bottom with washers and spring washers and spacers and ...
know where to find any good information on this pos ?
~Kop
M5OD- (R1) information needed
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kopcicle
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M5OD- (R1) information needed
There are two major pressure changes in a four stroke internal combustion engine , when you light the fire and when the rods exit the block.
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fordamericana
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Re: M5OD- (R1) information needed
Working on mazda?kopcicle wrote:Ever have to mess with an M5R1 that some idiot got to first ? I got the guts back together and end play right no problem . The whole shifter assembly is just a bunch of bent parts , plastic top and bottom with washers and spring washers and spacers and ...
know where to find any good information on this pos ?
~Kop
I likes My FE I does...
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mmerlinn
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Re: M5OD- (R1) information needed
Doesn't matter whether it is a Mazda or a Ford vehicle. All of the parts are the same.fordamericana wrote:Working on mazda?kopcicle wrote:Ever have to mess with an M5R1 that some idiot got to first ? I got the guts back together and end play right no problem . The whole shifter assembly is just a bunch of bent parts , plastic top and bottom with washers and spring washers and spacers and ...
know where to find any good information on this pos ?
~Kop
As far as the M5OD is concerned, if you don't run it out of oil, it seldom goes bad.
mmerlinn (http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/makeridx.htm)
"People who are careless and sloppy writers are usually also careless and sloppy at thinking. Answering questions for careless and sloppy thinkers is not rewarding." - Eric Steven Raymond
"People who are careless and sloppy writers are usually also careless and sloppy at thinking. Answering questions for careless and sloppy thinkers is not rewarding." - Eric Steven Raymond
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averagef250
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Re: M5OD- (R1) information needed
The shift seats and shift retainer should be replaced anytime you touch them.
Most R1's have a trashed input and cluster. If yours doesn't, might take a closer look. Look at the input gear toothform on the cluster gear.
Replace the top plate shift rail plugs with 5/8" steel cup plugs if you haven't already.
Also, most Mazda 5 speeds R1 and R2 fail within a few thousand miles after a shop rebuilds one. Most builders neglect to ensure the forward bearing oiling passages are clear. They goop them up with RTV, the input bearing heats up, the input expands, the end clearance goes poof combining with a very hot input shaft the pocket bearing and thrust bearing melt. At this point the input gear usually strips in the R1, but the R2's had better gears and normally make it through with salvageable gears, just no pocket/thrust bearings.
The R2's a tough cookie in my book, the R1 shouldn't have made it into production.
Most R1's have a trashed input and cluster. If yours doesn't, might take a closer look. Look at the input gear toothform on the cluster gear.
Replace the top plate shift rail plugs with 5/8" steel cup plugs if you haven't already.
Also, most Mazda 5 speeds R1 and R2 fail within a few thousand miles after a shop rebuilds one. Most builders neglect to ensure the forward bearing oiling passages are clear. They goop them up with RTV, the input bearing heats up, the input expands, the end clearance goes poof combining with a very hot input shaft the pocket bearing and thrust bearing melt. At this point the input gear usually strips in the R1, but the R2's had better gears and normally make it through with salvageable gears, just no pocket/thrust bearings.
The R2's a tough cookie in my book, the R1 shouldn't have made it into production.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70