cracked bellhousings

[fordman]

if you have a properly welded up cast iron bellhousing will it crack again? or will it be alright to reuse? i think it will be ok if it is welded up properly. what are your opinions?

[FordTruck]

I've awlyes herd welding cast is really hard and after the welding is done if its not cooled right it'll crack again right next to the weld. I don't see why after welding you couldn't use it.

[averagef250]

There are many types of cast iron. They respond to repairs differently. Gray cast iron is very weak when nickel weld repaired, it can be brazed effectively or TIG welded at high temperature with gray iron filler metal (the entire part must be heated to 2000+). Nodular iron, cast steel and other cast ferrous allows can be welded easily with many welding methods or brazed and retain most of thier strength.

Not knowing what it truely is, brazing by someone skilled in iron repair is a sound bet. Check the bellhousing for alignment post-braze.

[cdeal28078]

If it is the bell housing on a manual, C4 or FMX I would just replace it. If it is a c6 and the transmission is rebuilt or in real good shape I might have somebody try and weld it. I know cast can be welded but I wouldn't take it to just anybody to have it done. Sounds like AverageF250 can point you in the right direction.
clint

[bluef250]

Do a search for welding cast iron. There are a lot of products available. Then depending on your comfort level to do the work, decide on year action.

[mmerlinn]

C4s and FMXs did not use cast iron bell housings.

The C6 case is not cast iron either.

[averagef250]

Fordman made it pretty clear he was asking about CAST IRON, not aluminum. Aluminum is cake.

Bluef250, most cast iron repair products have outlandish claims and are nowhere's near as effective as brazing. The common story I here on "specialty cast repair" rod is a guy spends a few hundred on a product that doesn't work very well, a couple hundred on something else then finally ends up using braze or a stitching product.

[390Nut]

I welded up a pair of stock exhaust manifolds with a century mig welder (using the wire that came with the welder) 7 years ago. One was cracked 1/4th of the way around, right in the middle, and another was cracked (about 1.5 inches long) through one of the exhaust port flanges. Welded then ground it flat. Didn't pre-heat anything.

Those manifolds are still on my truck today, leak free.


Just sayin'.

[kugelbake]

Bellhousings are $10 at Pull-a-Part salvage yards.

How did it crack? Misaligned during a clutch job? I would replace it.