knock knock knock
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knock knock knock
i have a built 418/351w in my 67 f100 the other day it was pretty cold out ...like 30ish. i started it up let it idle for a little while then jumped out on the road and did a big burn out showing off for the guys at work then ran through the gears at high rpm like 6500 when i hit 3rd it started knocking really hard. i drove it on home like 2 mile down the road and at around 2500 its knocks pretty bad but it doesnt sound bad idling. started it up again to pull out of garage again cold out and it sounded ok i didn't let it warm up though. what do you guys think could be making the knock? its a 418 stroker kit from mustang depot scat crank, h beam rods, forged pistons like 12.0 cr its a 2 bolt main with a trick flow girdel. cam is solid ftalt tappet with roller rockers and a stud girdel on them. motor has very low miles maybe 2000 3000. any ideas?
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
- fireguywtc
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Re: knock knock knock
maybe a pushrod. sounds like an expensive burnout. Hope it's not too bad
Bill
1967 F-250 LWB 2WD 352 V8, 4spd manual, true duals, 122k original miles (currently being restored)
1970 F-250 4x4 highboy ranger 390 V8, 4spd
2012 F-350 PSD FX4 LWB CC lariat, white
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"If you want to judge a person's true character, give them power."
1967 F-250 LWB 2WD 352 V8, 4spd manual, true duals, 122k original miles (currently being restored)
1970 F-250 4x4 highboy ranger 390 V8, 4spd
2012 F-350 PSD FX4 LWB CC lariat, white
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... hp?uid=602
"If you want to judge a person's true character, give them power."
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Re: knock knock knock
ha ha for sure. thats what i was hoping was a push rod. it seems to have fine oil pressure and everything was built to last....so i thought. i guess i will have to tear in to it. im glad you was thinking a push rod also
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
- DuckRyder
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Re: knock knock knock
Is there any way you can record it?
Does it knock under load, decelleration, or all the time?
Is it a "deep" or "heavy" knock?
Does it knock under load, decelleration, or all the time?
Is it a "deep" or "heavy" knock?
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: knock knock knock
its not a constant knock it was just doing it with a little load on the motor. and it would also do it if i revved it past 2500 or so while not in gear. it sounds pretty nasty when trying to excellerate.
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
- Ranchero50
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Re: knock knock knock
Probably going to be taking it back apart, for insurance if anything.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
- averagef250
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Re: knock knock knock
Valvetrain taps at 1/2 engine RPM. lower end knocks at engine RPM. The difference is really obvious when you count taps/knocks and figure the rate.
What grade of fuel are you running? Forged pistons or not you can't get away with 12:1 on pump gas. My guess is you have knocked some ring lands off your pistons. When you lose ring lands at high rpm intake reversion often sucks the pieces back into the intake and sends them into other cylinders too. Valves bend, pistons get beat.
What does a vacuum gauge do hooked to the engine? You can get a feel real fast for how screwed up it is by how bad the needle fluctuates at idle. Compression test would be the next step to narrow it down.
What grade of fuel are you running? Forged pistons or not you can't get away with 12:1 on pump gas. My guess is you have knocked some ring lands off your pistons. When you lose ring lands at high rpm intake reversion often sucks the pieces back into the intake and sends them into other cylinders too. Valves bend, pistons get beat.
What does a vacuum gauge do hooked to the engine? You can get a feel real fast for how screwed up it is by how bad the needle fluctuates at idle. Compression test would be the next step to narrow it down.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Re: knock knock knock
its possible i was getting into some less than desireable gas. i usually try to run 100av but i was probably running a mix with more 91 than 100. i will try to do a comp check here pretty soon and start getting prepared to pull it back out.
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
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Re: knock knock knock
I've heard this sound before, light load cruising at mid - high rpm, or just holding a certain rpm in neutral.........
for me it was a rod bearing that smeared, I swore it was a lifter and hoped, but ended up diving in for a look
It ran fine and had normal power and oil pressure too
BTW, I was showing off too, only I hit around 7000 rpm when the tires broke loose
The tick/knock started right away, but never got worse I put 500 miles on it like that, not recomended though
for me it was a rod bearing that smeared, I swore it was a lifter and hoped, but ended up diving in for a look
It ran fine and had normal power and oil pressure too
BTW, I was showing off too, only I hit around 7000 rpm when the tires broke loose
The tick/knock started right away, but never got worse I put 500 miles on it like that, not recomended though
'05 Mustang GT
'72 crew 4x4
'07 KTM 450 xcw
2006 F350 CC Diesel 4x4 Lariat
'72 crew 4x4
'07 KTM 450 xcw
2006 F350 CC Diesel 4x4 Lariat
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Re: knock knock knock
what causes a rod bearing to let go?
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
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Re: knock knock knock
loweredf1 wrote:what causes a rod bearing to let go?
Lack of lube most times like cold oil, high loads/rpm or no oil.
You can also have problems with too tight of clearances or contamination when rebuilding, those usually show up very fast though.
If you smear or worse spin a bearing you will usually have oil pressure still, if you run it out of oil and smear or spin them all or most of them oil pressure goes down if it has any at all.
Here's a shot of my little oops, it smeared one side on this bearing which had no knocking from this cylinder for some reason ,
on one other bearing it smeared right over the oil hole and still ran great, with a little knock
this sort of shows you how much unknown damage an engine can have and seem fine, like I said, the bearing in this pic produced no unusual sounds
Oh ya, the first thing I do always is cut open the oil filter, cut a piece of the accordian out and squeeze out the oil in a vice, then when you strech it out you can see what happened in there, you can run a magnet across it ti see if the pieses are steel or aluminun, not that it really maters cause if it's loaded the engine is coming apart anyway. It's a good first check to do to avoid running it to do other tests and maybe causing more damage
'05 Mustang GT
'72 crew 4x4
'07 KTM 450 xcw
2006 F350 CC Diesel 4x4 Lariat
'72 crew 4x4
'07 KTM 450 xcw
2006 F350 CC Diesel 4x4 Lariat
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Re: knock knock knock
fireguywtc wrote:...... sounds like an expensive burnout. Hope it's not too bad
went to the park with the buddies for Saturday bbq sometimes....
about 2 weeks apart, Tom and Dave both wound up, sidestepped clutch, BLOOEY!, tranny all over the ground 'cuz it was in reverse.
at least it wasn't in front of everyone in the world that you know standing there laughing.
"Knowledge is Good." Emil Faber
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Re: knock knock knock
i thought i had a rod knock on my straight 6 but i turned up nothing so i just whent ahead and rebuilt it its fine now but i wish i knew what was making that noise
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Re: knock knock knock
well guys i finally got tore into it this weekend. found # 3 rod bearing trashed it was doin some spinning also #4 wasnt spun but was tore up pretty good. crank doesnt have any deep grooves but will definetly need turned and what about #3 rod is there any thing that can be done for it?
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
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Re: knock knock knock
you can have it checked for roundness. or get a new one if the old one is bad.