'69 overhaul- CV, 8.8, and more.

[WhitsEnd]

I'm glad to see someone that didn't box in the frame around the CV mount area. It simply isn't needed. The CV member provides the structure that many think they are providing by boxing. If anything is to be boxed, it should be the frame behind and forward of the CV member, but not necessarily at the CV member.
I'm not going to box mine. I think the fear comes from people seeing other IFS installations that require the boxing. Well, in those cases like a Mustang II, the suspension components mount to pieces that are welded to the frame and require boxing. Here, the CV crossmember provides the complete structure and the frame is connected to it, not the other way around.

I'd hate to see some of the frames that have been boxed in a couple of years with all that bare steel on the inside. Unless the boxing completely closes off the inside from the outside, it won't be pretty.

Nice project you have going. Well, except for the cheesy LS path you've threatened

[Dollarbill]

Where’d you get the brake booster? I have pulled the one off the CV and also have one off of the Tahoe too. I dont mind buying a new one if it saves me a day and lots of head scratching on fabbing one in. Thanks

[rms]

Where’d you get the brake booster? I have pulled the one off the CV and also have one off of the Tahoe too. I dont mind buying a new one if it saves me a day and lots of head scratching on fabbing one in. Thanks

I bought it as part of a master cylinder kit off eBay when I did my Scarebird brakes. It’s a generic 8” dual diaphragm booster. I think an original Ford large diameter single diaphragm would also be fine, it may just be harder to locate with the right brackets.

[IN2FORD]

It matters if you are running disc front and rear as to what booster you get. I have seen many use the crown vic booster so it must be an easy install and it would be set up for front and rear disc. The original booster is most likely for drum drum or disc drum. Sounds like you are making new brake lines so I would suggest the nicop stuff. It's inexpensive and easy to work with. Make sure you get a good flaring tool. I had a harbor freight that would not make a good flare for nothing.I used my dads old Mac tool that looked identical to the Harbor Freight and it worked perfect every time. Not sure what the difference is.

Barry

[rms]

Barry, I think you may be confusing the booster for the proportioning valve. Yes, the NiCopp brake line is amazing, it’s much better than the steel line.

[Dollarbill]

I ordered a couple hundred dollars worth of random items for the frame (brake lines,clamps etc) last night for my build...my money spending has started full swing! May try n see how the CV booster fits up before i order something....

[IN2FORD]

Barry, I think you may be confusing the booster for the proportioning valve. Yes, the NiCopp brake line is amazing, it’s much better than the steel line.

The proportioning valve does have to be "tuned" for disc/disc but the booster also has to be sized for it as well. Only reason I know this is that I ran into this upgrading brakes on a foxbody mustang.

See link

https://itstillruns.com/single-dual-dia ... 48376.html

Barry

[rms]

10-4 Barry, thanks for the link.

Got my c-notches and some 3/16” plate to box in the back of them. These are 1/4” and unless I bevel them down a bunch and make dual passes, I don’t think my 110v Lincoln is up to the task. At least that’s my rationalization, so I’ll be looking at a 220v machine soon.

[Dollarbill]

C notches look good. Been on the hunt for motor mounts, if I run across anything useful I will let you know. Its been tough.

[Manny]

Gotta have a 220 machine!! that's very cool!

[rms]

C notches look good. Been on the hunt for motor mounts, if I run across anything useful I will let you know. Its been tough.

Thanks. Just saw on the FB CV swap page there is a guy named Chris Morris who makes the motor mounts. I’ll see if I can find more info.

[Dollarbill]

C notches look good. Been on the hunt for motor mounts, if I run across anything useful I will let you know. Its been tough.

Thanks. Just saw on the FB CV swap page there is a guy named Chris Morris who makes the motor mounts. I’ll see if I can find more info.

Guess i forget about the Ol’ facebook searches... Yep thats the only pic i could come up with on a google search. Cmorris somethin...he had some for sale a couple years ago on ebay. I could pull up pics but couldnt find any info other than that. Thanks!

[Manny]

Still hope this winds up with a 4.6 5.4 or something Ford. But again your truck build it your way and enjoy it.

[RSharpe]

Just went through you post here, very impressed. I helped (got things, held parts in place, grinded) put a CV in a friend's friends truck. Didn't see finished job. I am going to do the swap myself on my 69 I'm buying soon. The questions I am asking are because I don't want the truck to cut grass. I just want a lower ride for handling.

I know the starting points, remove front end, weld in bracing and cut out cross member. Now with a bare frame, where to start? How do I measure for center line, where the CV nipples stick in the frame. With that measurement, I can drill, cut, grind and then weld.

There is another question I don't think has been asked. How much does this lower the front? I have heard 5 to 6". Dropbeams go 3". Would it be possible to put a 2" block between the CV and the frame?

[Dollarbill]

Just went through you post here, very impressed. I helped (got things, held parts in place, grinded) put a CV in a friend's friends truck. Didn't see finished job. I am going to do the swap myself on my 69 I'm buying soon. The questions I am asking are because I don't want the truck to cut grass. I just want a lower ride for handling.

I know the starting points, remove front end, weld in bracing and cut out cross member. Now with a bare frame, where to start? How do I measure for center line, where the CV nipples stick in the frame. With that measurement, I can drill, cut, grind and then weld.

There is another question I don't think has been asked. How much does this lower the front? I have heard 5 to 6". Dropbeams go 3". Would it be possible to put a 2" block between the CV and the frame?

On my frame I pulled the grease fittings out of the top of the king pins and stuck some stainless filler rod in each hole...then i streched twine across the frame. I got a plumb bob and hung from the string and made my mark. Yeah its a redneck thing to do. But after i made the mark. I measured the wheelbase which is i believe 115” to do that i found center of the back axle and pulled 115” and i was dead on the money. Then i started measuring off of everything. Pulled from end of frame to the mark for center of the axle and wrote it down in a notebook, pulled from braces between the frame and wrote them down i even did cross measurements and wrote those down found holes to the front of my mark amd measried them too.The tricky part was transferring that mark fron the top of the frame to the bottom, or atleast it was for me, i had used a tri square and also an adjustable square to make sure i had them right. To me the frame didnt seem like it was parallel but may just be me..It costs nothing but time to measure, measure, and measure. Double check everything! Get the center measurement on those alignment pins and mark them. Before I center punched them i measured them from different points on the frame. My front end is 1/16th out. Thats something i can live with.
Im not sure on that 2” spacer. Someone else may chime in on that. Im sure it can be done just dont know about the top “wings” that get fastened down by the nuts on top.