Marvin 2....1970 SWB Resto

[elgemcdlf]

Did you mark the axle centerline before you took it out? If not so many have done this swap I am sure someone has measurements from the front of the rail.

[marvin2]

Did you mark the axle centerline before you took it out? If not so many have done this swap I am sure someone has measurements from the front of the rail.

I took my centerline measurements a while back. If I don't hit it right on the mark, I'll be really close. All the connections (steering linkage, driveshaft, engine mounts) will all have to be custom anyways, so I should be able to make up the difference if any. I might end up mocking a front fender in place to make sure that I'm centered in the wheel well just to make sure before I bolt it all in.


On another note:
I think I read in one of your earlier posts that you ground down the "centering pins" on the vic IFS. Are these the two pointed plastic pieces (one on each side) near where the bolts go through the bottom part of the crossmember? If left on, they will not allow the bottom of the frame to rest flat on the crossmember. I just want to double check before I cut them off....

**edit...I just checked JG100's thread and looks like he kept his, just drilled an extra hole on each side. I guess they would be helpful acting as true "centering pins" while trying to get this piece measured and mounted in the correct spot.

[elgemcdlf]

I cut mine off. They are for alignment. I have a sinking feeling after drilling a couple of the 3/4" holes you will be finished with the idea of those pins. They only serve for alignment on new assembly. Vehicle has corresponding holes designed into it. Slap the front unit in and then you can just run the bolts in. You are starting from scratch. Not Ford's assembly line. You can call them alignment for your truck if you want but they only align based on the holes you drill. Same as the other 4 mounting bolts.

[marvin2]

You can call them alignment for your truck if you want but they only align based on the holes you drill. Same as the other 4 mounting bolts.

This is very true... I've been thinking over the past couple of days about how to even start the alignment process. How did you go about getting your IFS in place? How much gap do you have between the outside frame rail and the inside of the crown vic upper arm on each side?

[elgemcdlf]

Ok here we go. I had marked my centerline and lined up the centerline with the centerline of the CV IFS. I tried getting both sides lined up at once but couldn't mamage that easily so I aligned the left side. I measured from the center of the mount holes to the other side which gave me the width of the mounting holes. If you look the right side is slotted. I later came to the conclusion the center of the rail is a good spot for the holes. Once I had the left side drilled I measured from the front of the rail to the center of the front hole. Transposed to the right rail. Put the IFS in place with bolts dropped from above on the left side. Aligned the left with my mark and aligned the right side constantly checking back and forth. Once I had it aligned on the marks I checked to verify my marks for my right holes were correct. If correct drop it all out and drill the right side.

I had the CV spacers which I cut to fit the rail. When it came time to mount I put the IFS in place and ran the bolts up from below just like Ford did it in the CV. Used the spacers in the rails and put the remaining piece of the original spacer on top of the rail. This gave me the threaded nut piece along with the correct height from the bottom of the mount to the upper shock tower support. Once all tightened down I put the upper shock tower supports on along with the original nuts.

I had to space my brake hose mounts out away from the rail otherwise the truck will rip them out when you turn. I mounted them in the same holes as the original hoses. Next was fabbing the mounts for the rear of the lower control arms. This is easier if you layout the plate before mounting the IFS. You will still need to fab some gussets but that s easy enough with the suspension in the truck. Next was motor mounts. I took my original perches and cut the bottom off. Welded a plate to the bottom allowing it to be bolted to the CV crossmember. The right side will have to be notched to clear the CV mount bolt rear.

Now steering. A local speed shop had all I needed for $90.00. I bought a sleeve that was 3/4" smooth on one end and splined on the other. Bought the ujoint for the end of the column and cut what I needed from 3/4" 120 tube. Pressed the splined end onto the original CV piece then welded. Make sure your CV portion is fully extended before you weld it all together. This will allow you to collapse the shaft if you need to change the rack in the future. Your shaft will hit the motor mount when steering. Notch the motor mount perch until you clear. Only thing left is hoses. I had a local hydraulic shop merge the CV ends with my old upper portions. Cost me $10.00. That's it. I am assuming you have disc brakes. If not you will need to put a proportioning valve in. My truck had disc brakes so I already had the valve.

Oh I forgot the sway bar. Just use a jack (unless the frame is upside down) to get it up to the frame. Move it forward or back until you find the spot where the link is straight up and down. Drill your holes and snug the bolts. Now do the same on the other side. Final tighten the mount bolts.

Enjoy!

[marvin2]

Got out and did some work on the rear axle this weekend. I cut off the existing coil spring perches and shock mounts, ground the old welds, wire wheeled, and painted...haven't decided what I want to do with the diff cover (new chrome, or paint existing). I cleaned and painted the coil springs as well. I've got new leaf spring perches and new u-bolts coming from summit this week.

I'm still trying to decide how I want to lower the rear. I posted in the suspension section last night, but I'll post it here too...I'm thinking of going with the full hanger flip now instead of the axle over leaf spring swap. Does adding a set of drop shackles along with the full hanger flip help to lower even further?

[FoPAR]

not to knock any one who painted their rear black but, I like the fact you didn't, looks nice and clean in silver

[marvin2]

not to knock any one who painted their rear black but, I like the fact you didn't, looks nice and clean in silver

Thanks!...I hope it stays nice & clean. With the IFS being aluminum & black, I wanted the rear to match to some degree. I am just trying to decide what color to paint the diff cover.

[marvin2]

Got some new parts last night. I bought a barely used Edelbrock 1405 600fm carb....for $80! Also, Summit delivered my new leaf spring perches and u-bolts. (No pics of the carb right now, will post later this week.)

[marvin2]

Finally got the IFS bolted in this weekend. Measuring and drilling the holes was pretty nerve racking...luckily I had my dad over to give me a hand. I can't wait to get some body panels on to see how the drop looks.

[elgemcdlf]

Ha , ha , ha! Drillin that first hole is killer isn't it? I measured and knew that this is where it goes. Measured again and hit the same spot, Measured again & hit the same spot. I knew it was the right spot but drilling that first hole drove me crazy. After the first one the rest just follow. Nice to see you have it back on 4 wheels. I can't see well enough in the pics but if you don't have the bolts through the frame sleeved you need to. The rail could pinch causing the IFS to come loose without them.

Ok I am curious. Are you still married with the truck parts laying in the front yard and all?

[marvin2]

Ok I am curious. Are you still married with the truck parts laying in the front yard and all?

HA!...I am still married, but that's only becuase I pull all the parts back into the garage after each work session (it's the backyard that sometimes get neglected).

I wasn't planning on sleeving the bolts. I did however, leave the portion of the original crossmember within the frame channel in place for additional support (I cut the crossmember at the frame rail instead of cutting it out completely, if that makes sense).

[Jeff Gammon]

Let me know how the late model rear end works out. That is what I would like to use, but I have read they are to wide. I plan on doing this swap in the spring

[elgemcdlf]

Let me know how the late model rear end works out. That is what I would like to use, but I have read they are to wide. I plan on doing this swap in the spring

Please explain how it could be "too wide". For the most part all full size vehicles are the same width. I have read also this "too wide" statement and find myself at a complete loss. If the hub to hub width is narrower than outer fender to outer fender it fits. Are you attempting to say it is wider hub to hub than the original 9". My IRS is 9" wider than the stock 9" hub to hub. The CV IFS is even wider than that. It is just a matter of wheel offset.

The rear axle shown here looks like the axle out of the CV the iFS came out of. How could the IFS be ok but the rear axle be "too wide"?

[Jeff Gammon]

I read that the rear wheels will rub the back fenders. I hope this statement is false. Because I would like to use a rear that tracked with the front