Basketcase#16-once in a lifetime build-now gone. :-(

[ToughOldFord]

I think I'd have A-Zone exchange that heater core, it looks like it sustained damage in that bent corner.

You can still get Super Cool radiators, don't know that you'd need it though. But a guy I know with a '67 F350 just put a new one in. A local radiator shop was able to order it for him. Pretty pricey though, IIRC it was just under $400.

[basketcase0302]

Steve, Thanks but I'll still just put the links for the poor ol' "dial-up" folks.

Dablack, That's good to know about the 460 and our stock radiator.
What kind of electric fan are you runnin'?

TOF, I gotta' find the receipt and I think I will take it back, I surely don't need anymore set-backs!
Only thing...it was a non-stock item, sure hope they don't give me an issue with that!

IIRC it was just under $400.

Now I really know I'm in the wrong business! I need to start re-coring radiators!

I got a little more done today, (it was 37 here on the back porch this morning) still having to run the parts outside to paint / then bring them back into the house to cure.
But I did manage to get primer and top coat onto quite a few parts.
I got the outside of the heater housing assembly wire brushed, and then drilled the eight rivets that hold the assembly together:
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
One of my dampers was sticking (due to rusted shaft) and I just can't force myself to pass up the opportunity to repair it seein' how I've came this far.
Then I got the rust converter painted onto all the heater housing metal parts:
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
Then I changed hats again! I got the wire brushing done and the rust converter painted on the inside of the cab. There's not a whole lot of rust there, but I wanted to slow it down while I had the chance:
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
And here's the completed 79' to 71' automatic brake pedal assembly that I made last week, (with my buddy Doug's help on the mig welding/I don't mig weld).
Here you can compare the two pedal assemblies.
Notice the 5/8" X 6 & 1/2" Grade 5 bolt with locking nut I had to get to bolt the pedal into the F-350.
The one picture makes the pedal assembly look much longer than it actually is, but I checked the stroke and it seems just fine with no clearance issues:
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
Another good bump day! Thank you Lord.

[basketcase0302]

Casey,

what rust converter are you using

I'm presently unemployed so when I looked at POR15 I bout' hit the floor!
I'm actually using a brand that wallyworld carries, (Klean Strip is in the auto section) mainlly due to budget restraints. I had used it years ago in an industrial setting (rooftop cooling tower/Gulf front) with good results. To me, it's like POR15 for the fact that end result is gonna' depend on following the directions closely, (remove scale/media blast if possible / wire brush/ I also wipe everything down with laquer thinner minutes before painting on the rust converter) and the correct temperature for the converter to cure. I've seen overnight humidity put me back a day, (rust seems to be like a "moisture magnet")!
I'm happy with the klean strip so far, but let's see what the "long run" holds though...

Been busier than a one legged butt kicker guys!
The weather outside changes my direction on a daily basis now.
Having to wait on parts also changes my direction, (I took the crappy "new" heater core back to autuzone/waitin' on DC order). But I've gotten a few painted parts cured in the laundry room in the house: Whatever you do, don't look at the list on the dry-erase board in this picture! LOL!
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
And I was barely able to get the rear axle gear oil drained yesterday before the temperature dropped to make it like molasses. Ok, I did kinda' cheat and help it along with a can of carb cleaner!
From the axle tag, (only 2 truck I've ever owned that still had the axle tag on it) it's just a plain and simple D-70 with 4.10 gears. This is exactly what I need for fuel economy!
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
It looked like the gear oil had never been changed in some 38 years! Now I'll wait a few days for the outside temp to go back up, so I can silicone the new gasket in place.

So I changed hats again and got the passenger side radius arm bracket re-mounted with the new poly bushings. Pretty much a pain by myself / a come-along / and a floor jack to get it re-aligned for the new Grade-8 bolts, (BTW...the 8- 1/2" X 1 and 1/2" Grade-8 bolts w/washers and nylon locking nuts for both radius arms and 6 for the tranny crossmember mounts ran about $45,00).
I wouldn't use less than Grade-8 hardware here! Notice the "Ford Blue" washers on the radius arm bushings! I've changed these bushings on four Ford trucks in my life, it's something tome to be proud of!
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
Then I "woke-up" the neighborhood and beat and banged until I got the drivers side bracket off!:lol:
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
The washer on the outside end of the radius arm is really a hassle to get off, highly advise grinding a flat spot on one side of the washer to facilitate an easier re-installation.
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1

And I finally slowed down long enough to compare the two transmission crossmembers I have. The "flatter" one is from my 79' dentside that had a C-4 (same mount as the dent C-6 as far as I know).
The "taller" one is from my 71' that had the NP435 tranny. If you look you can see there would be a 3" difference in the installed height of the transmission using the dent mount. I can see where guys are putting C-6's in using the dent mount, and having clearance issues with the tunnel area.
Yes, I'll probably wind up using my old 71' NP435 mount for the C-6 to make it easier!
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... 062.jpg&ne

Then I change hats again and started "farting around"!
Instead of buying one, (cause' I don't have no money).
I made a lockable receiver hitch plug for BC # 16. My buddy Allen gave me two of these Ford ovals a few years ago, (one's on my son's Ranchero/now the other one will be on BC # 16).
Hopefully, this is what the chebby's on I-75 will see next month blowing past them!
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... g&newest=1
Original Ford part number, not "jap-junk" like autuzone sells! I think my buddy said they came from the front of the newer E-series vans?
I hope everybody stays warm!

[dablack00]

"Dablack, That's good to know about the 460 and our stock radiator.
What kind of electric fan are you runnin'?"

I'm running a fan from a taurus with a 3.8L engine. Those and the mark VIII fans are the very best. Both cars had cooling issues and ford fixed it by putting in huge fans. Another good factory fan is the 89-97 thunderbird. Really though, we have such a big engine bay and such a large grill opening, I think just about any factory electric fan will work.

[rjewkes]

Now i'm wondering, since the cougart is a twin to the t-bird, with the 3.8 do i have an electric fan? i guess i could go look to find out but have never looked, i thought for sure it had a engine mounted fan.

[dablack00]

If it is a 89-97 cougar then yes, it should have an electric fan. I have owned a 96 4.6L bird, 97 4.6L bird, and 97 lincoln Mark VIII LSC, and they were all electric fan. With all the problems the 3.8L had with head gaskets, ford wanted to keep them as cool as possible. The when the 89 bird/cougar was designed, ford was moving away from V8s. They thought that everything would go SC V6 or turbo 4. The public wanted V8s so they put the 5.0L in the bird in 91 or 92. Then when the 5.0 went away (in cars) they put the HUGE 4.6L in the bird (1994). In 94 you could get a 3.8L, 4.6L, or 3.8L SC. NOTE: the 4.6L engine is physically as large as a 460ci. That car was never designed for such a large motor and getting the oil filter out was a trick. I usually changed my own oil but on the rare times I had it done, more than once I had to go down into the pit and show the guy how to get the oil filter out. You had to unscrew it, turn it a certain way and then move it away from you, turn it again, and then pull it out. FUN!

[basketcase0302]

I'll keep that in mind about the electric fans guys, thanks.

Finally a little progress, (once I got a break in the freezing weather).
Although it was still 32 degrees here this morning though).

I got my 289 intake manifold back from planing a few days ago, and got the rust converter painted on it:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16082.jpg
And then got the 2000 degree high heat Rustoleum primer on it today:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16083.jpg

Then broke out my smart level:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16085.jpg
Here I've zeroed it to the cab's window sill, and transferred that measurement to the new bed area. I'll use this measurement to insure the new bed will be level with the cab. And to also transfer the measurement for the opening in the "headache rack" onto paper:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16084.jpg
My buddy Doug is working on getting me a quote on the new flat bed. Out of four separate quotes I've gotten for the new aluminum flat bed, the shipping basically adds another grand. I've found some good prices on the new bed, but when you add the shipping it becomes ridiculous!
And I've got a couple of local shops to follow up on prices still.

And I finally wrapped up working on the rear axle area!
This has been a pain with the low temperatures in the 20's the past few days. I had to put my halogen spotlight on the cover for 3 days to insure the gasket sealer cured properly. I also got the new rubber brake line installed onto the rear axle / the new tubing plumbed to each wheel / the axle vent un-clogged (was completely plugged) and the new axle vent hose ran:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16086.jpg
I've still got to plumb the new hard line back to the rear axle, (once I'm finished cleaning up the frame rail area and have the distribution block mounted).

And I got my new brake warning light switch harness fabricated. Once the brake line distribution block has been relocated, it makes for much shorter wiring, (I've actually taken one connection and about 22" of wiring out of the trucks harness by making this / and re-locating the block).
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16074.jpg

That's about it for now. Hopefully tomorrow I can get back to work cleaning up the cab area, and engine compartment area.
Another good bump day!

[FLATBEDFORD]

Welcome to the fun of working in sub freezing temps. I do it a few months every year.

[basketcase0302]

Steve,
I hear ya' on the sub-freezing weather, don't know how ya'll do it!

Got a little more done today, (having a real bad back day).
I got the inside cab "tunnel cover" put back on. Here's the "play-doh" on the "hump" to seal out any drafts and leaks:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16087.jpg
And here's the cover bolted down. I got it a few years back from a member here, (wish I could remember who it was to thank him again):
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16088.jpg

Then I was able to break out the rattle can for the second coat of Rustoleum tan on the firewall:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16090.jpg

And I finally got the heater assembly re-installed.
Do yourself a few favor(s) when you install one of these.
1) Hook up the cables to the dampers before you install the heater.
2) Hook up the pass. side fresh air vent to the rubber boot / then bolt the vent to the kick panel after the heater is bolted up.
3) Hook up the wiring before you bolt the heater to the firewall, and...
4) You really need two sets of hands, (one to hold the assembly in place / another to run the nuts on the firewall side). I used a 2" X 4" to hold it in place, what a PIA!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16089.jpg

Another good bump day.

[rjewkes]

i did miss the ground and temp wire set on the back of my core years ago, but i did get away with one hand as i used the old bottle jack to prop up the core.

[ToughOldFord]

Looking good!

[Manny]

Very nice basket case. This rig is shaping up for sure and quick too. Were did the hitch you got come from again????

[FLATBEDFORD]

That truck is gonna look great when you are done. I wish I had the time and $$ to do same with mine.

[cbfomoco]

Great progress. I am glad to see another ton truck as well. There are to few of them. Keep up the work.

[basketcase0302]

Thanks guys. I could either put 2K into the 03' Exp or the bump. Makes a lot more sense to me, to put it into the bump because I can work on it. The Exp has 113K on it, and things are starting to break on it more often now. I wish I had the time and money to do this properly.

Got a little more done in the past few days. I got the drivers side inner fender / core support / drivers side front frame rail / and front crossmember cleaned up. Wire brushed / wiped down with laquer / rust converter painted on / primer / and finally two coats of Rustoleum gloss black. Came out nice considering my resources and the environment I'm working in, (dust on fresh paint)!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16094.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16101.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16100.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16099.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16104.jpg

My old door weatherstrip gaskets fell apart when I had started the cab work. So I was kinda' forced to:


And what a can of worms I open up! Wire brush all the old gasket material / adhesive / and rust off of the surfaces and then paint on the rust converter:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16102.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16103.jpg
But why stop there... Go ahead and work on the drip rail while I'm at it!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16108.jpg
But why stop there... Go ahead and pull out the old windshield that has two small pin holes in it, and work on that drip rail too!
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16107.jpg

So now I've got to get some seam sealer and some body putty, (much better word than bondo).
I've had the one year old piece of glass from my 79' here for years now. Guess I'm gonna' learn quick how to install auto glass. I've read the tutorial about 3 times, still not very comforting though...
I'll be working on the rusted out metal areas this week, as well as putting some parts back on the truck finally. I did get another small order from NPD with a few small rubber parts. Cab floor plugs that were non-existent. And something in the over 30 years I've driven Ford trucks that I've never had in my truck before, (the round piece on the bottom) any guesses?
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13 ... C16098.jpg

Another good bump day!