302 with 351 firing order???? why?

[Ranchero50]

If you ever get the oil hot enough that it needs a cooler you'll wish it was cool... The earlier dentsides used a bent length of tubing that bolted to the drivers frame rail for a cooler. I recently installed one on mine. Looks like something off the back of an old refrigerator.

[BayStYAt]

If you ever get the oil hot enough that it needs a cooler you'll wish it was cool... The earlier dentsides used a bent length of tubing that bolted to the drivers frame rail for a cooler. I recently installed one on mine. Looks like something off the back of an old refrigerator.

ok, I am going to relocate my stock unit.

[DuckRyder]

So how we doing?

I was expecting to see some pictures of a new motor by now, and maybe a video so we can hear the cam.

[BayStYAt]

So how we doing?

I was expecting to see some pictures of a new motor by now, and maybe a video so we can hear the cam.

ha, We are getting there. I will get the block back hopefully Friday. I still need to paint it. The pistons are not shipping until the 25th. Set us back. I remember hearing a light tick at cold start up and found a bent pushrod and valve. The bent valve was sticking bad, the valve seal was gone completely. I got a new valve but need help replacing the pushrod. not sure which length to get. Can locate just one. Cam K kit is ordered. Waiting on spring to re assemble the heads.

Machine-shop is removing the pistons from rods and inspecting the rods/installing new pistons

Crank has been polished

I rebuilt power-steering pump and box. Painted and Powder-coated all parts.

Painted firewall and frame

Installed DJM dream beams, but the springs are not original so I have to much positive camber. Ordered new factory springs. New kingpins

Rebuilt the front 3" brakes completely.

Had the radiator support powder coated along with the oil pan, brackets, pulleys, hood hinges, and other parts.

Re- worked and repaired my factory under hood wiring harness. It was a mess.

I inspected the Clevite mains and rod bearings. The main was scared beyond oblivion and 1 set of rod bearings was scared. They are sending replacements. Same thing happened when I built my 4.6L


I ordered George Reid How to build a small block for my assembly process.

So close yet so far.

[BayStYAt]

So how we doing?

I was expecting to see some pictures of a new motor by now, and maybe a video so we can hear the cam.

ha, We are getting there. I will get the block back hopefully Friday. I still need to paint it. The pistons are not shipping until the 25th. Set us back. I remember hearing a light tick at cold start up and found a bent pushrod and valve. The bent valve was sticking bad, the valve seal was gone completely. I got a new valve but need help replacing the pushrod. not sure which length to get. Can locate just one. Cam K kit is ordered. Waiting on spring to re assemble the heads.

Machine-shop is removing the pistons from rods and inspecting the rods/installing new pistons

Crank has been polished

I rebuilt power-steering pump and box. Painted and Powder-coated all parts. New Hoses

Painted firewall and frame

Installed DJM dream beams, but the springs are not original so I have to much positive camber. Ordered new factory springs. New kingpins

Rebuilt the front 3" brakes completely.

Had the radiator support powder coated along with the oil pan, brackets, pulleys, hood hinges, and other parts.

Re- worked and repaired my factory under hood wiring harness. It was a mess.

I inspected the Clevite mains and rod bearings. The main was scared beyond oblivion and 1 set of rod bearings was scared. They are sending replacements. Same thing happened when I built my 4.6L


I ordered George Reid How to build a small block for my assembly process.

So close yet so far.

[DuckRyder]

Sounds like progress!

[BayStYAt]

Sounds like progress!

I plan on using the stock rockers. Should I get new ones? Any benefit? If I upgrade rockers, do I need to change the push in studs?

[The Bandit]

If it was me I would absolutely change out those pressed in studs. Leaving those in is just asking for one to pull out and cause you a problem with all the new parts in your engine.

[basketcase0302]

Absolutely love...that book.
I built my very first small block using it way...back in the early 80's and used it for reference to build a few more after that.
I have a brand new set of Comp cams screw in studs here if you decide to go that route, (but I've personally put over 300K on SBF's without ever seeing a pressed in stud come loose). One particular engine I built was constantly running over 5K in mud bogs, (the one I bought the studs for).
Realize you'll have to have machine work done to your heads, (the boss has to be milled down as well as the bores for the studs machined) if you decide to go that route. The cost of the machine work was another driving factor why i never had my heads milled for the studs.

[Manny]

If your heads are getting worked then I would vote for screw in studs. One thing to take a look at on the cheaper upgrade route is the drill and pin. You drill thru the guide and the stud. The tap a roll pin into the hole. This gives a little piece of mind for higher lift cams and such. Not as good as screw in but does help a bit.

[BayStYAt]

If your heads are getting worked then I would vote for screw in studs. One thing to take a look at on the cheaper upgrade route is the drill and pin. You drill thru the guide and the stud. The tap a roll pin into the hole. This gives a little piece of mind for higher lift cams and such. Not as good as screw in but does help a bit.

thanks, where can I find the Drill and Pin? I looked without success.

When checking push rod length, is it done the same way without roller rockers? Ive seen videos being checked with roller rockers but not stock rockers.

thanks

[DuckRyder]

If your heads are getting worked then I would vote for screw in studs. One thing to take a look at on the cheaper upgrade route is the drill and pin. You drill thru the guide and the stud. The tap a roll pin into the hole. This gives a little piece of mind for higher lift cams and such. Not as good as screw in but does help a bit.

thanks, where can I find the Drill and Pin? I looked without success.

When checking push rod length, is it done the same way without roller rockers? Ive seen videos being checked with roller rockers but not stock rockers.

thanks

You can have your machine shop do it. If they don’t know what you are talking about don’t let them do it.

[Manny]

thanks, where can I find the Drill and Pin? I looked without success.

When checking push rod length, is it done the same way without roller rockers? Ive seen videos being checked with roller rockers but not stock rockers.

thanks

Checking pushrod length goes the same want to make certain that the rocker is centered and pushing on the middle of the valve tip yada yada yada. Yes same principles. As for the Drill and pin machine shops can do it for you or if your brave you just need drill bits and roll pins from McMaster carr or the like.

[Manny]

You can have your machine shop do it. If they don’t know what you are talking about don’t let them do it.

He is right same principle as asking a parts guy for a 68' Volkswagon water pump. If he goes hunting don't use em.

[BayStYAt]

Ahh, thanks. The reason I asked is I am doing the engine build. I have never had to check the length before.