Restoring XLT tailgate panel insert

[Bullitt74]

......I just ordered some 3M wood vinyl, so I’m committed to this project now..

Hi Jingo
Would you mind sharing which 3m vinyl your using?

Thanks

Marine Teak 3M Di Noc is the match. Don’t get the Vvivid product - the grain is not quite the same, and a shade off.

[chicof100]

Here's where you get the wood grain.
https://www.metrorestyling.com/3M-DI-NO ... marine.htm
I've been getting this material from here and it's the best. They also have the Burl wood pattern.
Remember, your final look depends on how good your prep work is.

[MikeB]

Here's where you get the wood grain.
https://www.metrorestyling.com/3M-DI-NO ... marine.htm
I've been getting this material from here and it's the best. They also have the Burl wood pattern.
Remember, your final look depends on how good your prep work is.

Robert
I got a burl wood sample from them but it was way too glossy and not quite what I have on my door panels. Do you r3call the name of the vinyl?

Thanks
Mike

[MikeB]

......I just ordered some 3M wood vinyl, so I’m committed to this project now..

Hi Jingo
Would you mind sharing which 3m vinyl your using?

Thanks

Marine Teak 3M Di Noc is the match. Don’t get the Vvivid product - the grain is not quite the same, and a shade off.

Steve
I removed my panel using a similar tool as Jingo used. But once I got started using a wider blade gasket scraper worked better. Not sure how it’s going to crimp back though. I also have been taking dents out of my 3-5/8” wide aluminum trim pretty successfully. I use a Pappa dent tool then file and sand. My first piece was a small corner piece in real bad shape. I was too aggressive and ended up with a pin hole. Second piece a lot better. Waiting for a buffing kit to do final shine. Once I’ve fixed all side Moulding I’ll do panel as the molding is giving me some practice.

[Bullitt74]

Steve
I removed my panel using a similar tool as Jingo used. But once I got started using a wider blade gasket scraper worked better. Not sure how it’s going to crimp back though. I also have been taking dents out of my 3-5/8” wide aluminum trim pretty successfully. I use a Pappa dent tool then file and sand. My first piece was a small corner piece in real bad shape. I was too aggressive and ended up with a pin hole. Second piece a lot better. Waiting for a buffing kit to do final shine. Once I’ve fixed all side Moulding I’ll do panel as the molding is giving me some practice.

Thanks Mike - this is helpful! I got some new DC upper XLT side trim, but I have to rework the lower aluminum rocker trim which will be good practice before the tailgate panel. I’m curious to know how recrimping the panel goes.

Did you use the yellow can Easy Off to remove the anodizing?

[MikeB]

I may have to buy the DC trim also but hoping to save as many pieces as I can first. Haven’t had to remove anodize cause the pieces so fare are small enough to just sand the whole thing. I guess I’ll have to on the longer pieces. Was wondering if I should try and remove old vinyl or sand it smooth. It’s on there good. Do you know if the easy off will take it off?

You must have the one stripe rocker trim as well. Kind of rare stuff.

[Bullitt74]

At the auto body supply store, I did notice an aerosol can of vinyl trim remover.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/ ... 059&rt=rud

It states it is for clear coat and enamel finishes, and doesn’t mention anything about aluminium, but I can’t see that being a concern. I plan to test on an old piece of upper side trim to remove old vinyl.

[MikeB]

At the auto body supply store, I did notice an aerosol can of vinyl trim remover.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/ ... 059&rt=rud

It states it is for clear coat and enamel finishes, and doesn’t mention anything about aluminium, but I can’t see that being a concern. I plan to test on an old piece of upper side trim to remove old vinyl.

Yeah let me know how it works. Here is a pic of before and after I used the dent tool. This was the first piece that I did and ended up putting a pin hole in it. Hopefully I’ve learned my lesson. Unfortunately all dents seem to be perpendicular to the lines of the trim.

[MikeB]

... I’m curious to know how recrimping the panel goes.

I think seaming pliers will work well as long as they don’t have a serrated grip. Lowe’s and harbor freight have them under $20.

[jingo]

Sorry Mike, late on this post back to you, working on other stuff. Also I probably mislead everyone re:3M vinyl. I actually got the 3M burl referenced elsewhere on the forum, but for my door panels, not the tailgate.

So far I've disassembled both panels, used one of the recovered pressboard pieces as a template, and cut new ones out of 3/16" hard board. All those little moon-shaped cut outs for door clips, the burl/steel panel panel clips, door holes, etc...what a pain. I got an upholstery shop to seam up a couple of blanks, pleated vinyl (bottom) and flat vinyl (top), matching color to the new Pony armrests in parchment. The 3M burl is too glossy and light colored compared with the original, but with all new panels it'll look pretty cool, especially if I use the excess to re-cover the dash. I took this project on ('other stuff') when I realized there are no panels off the shelf that are even remotely authentic.

As for the tailgate, after endless hours tapping, filing, and sanding my grill work and headlight doors, and anodize (looks great), I had nearly finished the same treatment on the tailgate aluminum...and then disaster struck! On my last defect - an outside edge crease the size of a dime - I got too thin and split the surface I don't know if there is any way to braze or solder thin aluminum, but if you or anyone else has an idea, I'd be grateful. Otherwise I'm pretty bummed.

As for finding the right tailgate vinyl, that is a problem. The original is most like a walnut, but with a redder tone and a looser grain than any of the walnut vinyl around. Honestly I don't know what I'm gong to do when I get to that point. I like the original look so much, but all the modern offerings kinda look like crap to me. What did you end up going with?

-Jack

[Bullitt74]

As for the tailgate, after endless hours tapping, filing, and sanding my grill work and headlight doors, and anodize (looks great), I had nearly finished the same treatment on the tailgate aluminum...and then disaster struck! On my last defect - an outside edge crease the size of a dime - I got too thin and split the surface I don't know if there is any way to braze or solder thin aluminum, but if you or anyone else has an idea, I'd be grateful. Otherwise I'm pretty bummed.

-Jack

Not sure whether one can braze, solder or TIG weld some aluminum in, but lets keep this thread fresh with the hope that someone with experience can chime in.

Your experience with the tailgate panel is my worst fear. Do you have any words of wisdom for the rest of us? Anything you would have done differently?

[jingo]

Dents, dings, scratches, pits, even a serious gouge or two, no problem. With time, patience, lots of wet/dry paper, various polishing grits, and a bench grinder, all of these defects can be repaired in stainless or aluminum to a mirror finish.

But beware the 'crease'. Sometimes the metal may look whole, but there are micro fractures that you can't see...until you start to tinker. Even then you may have a false sense of security and, having ALMOST finished, you make the final, fatal, careless tap. All the hours, down the drain, because now there is clearly a crack in the metal and no amount of polishing will cover it up. You're done.

A guy in my area says that aluminum can be brazed, but if it's anything like welding aluminum, its a skill I don't have. I'm going to bring the piece to him next week, see what he says. If I get any useful advice, I'll post it back on this thread.