1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Moderator: FORDification
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Making a bit of progress and have a couple of questions. See below.
I was reading one of the forums and the discussion seemed to be that the 4wd models needed to utilize a rear sump to clear the cross-member. Well I have a 360 motor with a rear sump and oil pump screen from a 1973 F250 donor. However, the 360 did not have the correct main cap bolt with stud.
After searching high and low I could not find a new oil screen pickup or correct main cap bolt for my rebuilt 1971 390 motor using a rear sump. So I cleaned the old pickup thoroughly and welded up the broken support bracket and bolted the bracket under the main cap. Ironically you can buy a front sump oil pump screen pickup all day long just not the rear sump.
Maddog Fender exit headers ready for ceramic coating.
As you can see in the picture below a front sump would have worked fine. I guess my misunderstanding was that a 73 frame would require a rear sump which is what I'm using, but it must be this a 67-72 issue.
The transfer case shifter is real sloppy. Do they normally have some sort of bushing/sleeve on the bolt?
I'm assuming there should be a gasket between the oil filter adapter and the block, but my engine rebuild gasket kit did not include one. Anyone have a part number.
Thanks,
Trent
I was reading one of the forums and the discussion seemed to be that the 4wd models needed to utilize a rear sump to clear the cross-member. Well I have a 360 motor with a rear sump and oil pump screen from a 1973 F250 donor. However, the 360 did not have the correct main cap bolt with stud.
After searching high and low I could not find a new oil screen pickup or correct main cap bolt for my rebuilt 1971 390 motor using a rear sump. So I cleaned the old pickup thoroughly and welded up the broken support bracket and bolted the bracket under the main cap. Ironically you can buy a front sump oil pump screen pickup all day long just not the rear sump.
Maddog Fender exit headers ready for ceramic coating.
As you can see in the picture below a front sump would have worked fine. I guess my misunderstanding was that a 73 frame would require a rear sump which is what I'm using, but it must be this a 67-72 issue.
The transfer case shifter is real sloppy. Do they normally have some sort of bushing/sleeve on the bolt?
I'm assuming there should be a gasket between the oil filter adapter and the block, but my engine rebuild gasket kit did not include one. Anyone have a part number.
Thanks,
Trent
- hfdco4
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:45 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Here it is on Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-7 ... aQodiyQAng
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-7 ... aQodiyQAng
Paul
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
- popeyes71
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1176
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 3:46 pm
- Location: Bay Area, Ca.
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
She is looking good! Those headers look like they tuck real nice to the frame. I wish I could help you on the bushing question, my Highboy is a manual, so it is set up a little different than yours. Maybe the bolt is supposed to have a shoulder on it??? I'm sure someone here will be able to answer your question.
-Popeye-
1971 F-250 4x4 Highboy
1966 Chevy Nova, 8 second 10.5 car
1971 F-250 4x4 Highboy
1966 Chevy Nova, 8 second 10.5 car
-
- New Member
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Wed May 25, 2005 1:12 am
- Location: Washington, Spokane
- Contact:
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
the bolt should be shouldered and have plastic bushings there should be 2 "one shone in pic"
Phill
78 Mustang
67 F250ish
2010 F250 Harley Davidson
78 Mustang
67 F250ish
2010 F250 Harley Davidson
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Thanks for the help.
Here is a pic of the dipstick plugged with a 9mm casing and ultra black gasket maker. 30-06 almost fit, dang it. Would have looked cooler. Got the transfer case shifter bushing ordered. For future reference the bushing part number is: C6TZ7335A.
Here is a pic of the dipstick plugged with a 9mm casing and ultra black gasket maker. 30-06 almost fit, dang it. Would have looked cooler. Got the transfer case shifter bushing ordered. For future reference the bushing part number is: C6TZ7335A.
- marvin2
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 536
- Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:25 am
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Great work so far! I didn't realize that there was a difference in wheelbase between 67-72 and 73-79 trucks. I can't tell from the pics, but it appears to be somewhere between an inch or two?
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Hi Marvin,
Here is a great article about the chassis difference.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/chass ... arison.htm
Here is a great article about the chassis difference.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/chass ... arison.htm
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Making a bit more progress.
Installed the Sanden 508 AC Compressor bracket I got from Tyler on this forum. Great product!
Moving on to paint and body work.
Installed the Sanden 508 AC Compressor bracket I got from Tyler on this forum. Great product!
Moving on to paint and body work.
- hfdco4
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:45 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
I have a few questions about your headers, where did you get them, how much and the part number?
Paul
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
FE390PC
1970 F250 4x4
2016 F150 4x4 2.7 ECO
Gone 1997, 1999 & 2003 F150 4x4s
Gone 1988, 1989 & 1991 Broncs
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Headers are from Mad Dog.
http://maddogheaders.net/products/ford
Part #9228
Keep in mind the headers are for 73-79 frame, which is what I have with a 71 body.
http://maddogheaders.net/products/ford
Part #9228
Keep in mind the headers are for 73-79 frame, which is what I have with a 71 body.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
A bit more progress to report.
Went to Pates Swap Meet last week at Texas Motor Speedway for the first time. Walked for 7 hours straight and did not see all of it. Did find a new front and rear bumper and saved about $175.00 on the set.
Going to set the cab on the dolly once I get the glass out. Any tips for removing the windshield would be appreciated.
Went to Pates Swap Meet last week at Texas Motor Speedway for the first time. Walked for 7 hours straight and did not see all of it. Did find a new front and rear bumper and saved about $175.00 on the set.
Going to set the cab on the dolly once I get the glass out. Any tips for removing the windshield would be appreciated.
- shortstack
- New Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2010 9:45 am
- Location: Austin TX
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
I was also at Pate last weekend. It was ridiculously big. I went on Saturday, but my dad has walked half of it on Friday. We walked the other half, and cruised through the half he had seen. Eventually, we were so tired that we weren't even looking at things, just trying to make the rows.
It seems that things get more and more expensive each year at Pate. (Guys asking $250-$350 for little red wagons??) I prefer the lone star park swap meet myself.
I really like your swap so far. Keep up the great work.
It seems that things get more and more expensive each year at Pate. (Guys asking $250-$350 for little red wagons??) I prefer the lone star park swap meet myself.
I really like your swap so far. Keep up the great work.
1971 f100 Custom, SWB, 302, T5
"It can't be that hard."
"It can't be that hard."
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Looking for a body mount kit. I found this one:
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Truck-B ... info/23065
It appears to include the radiator core support, but does not state that in the listing. What do you think?
Can you think of any reason this would not work for a 1971 F250?
Thanks,
Trent
http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Truck-B ... info/23065
It appears to include the radiator core support, but does not state that in the listing. What do you think?
Can you think of any reason this would not work for a 1971 F250?
Thanks,
Trent
-
- New Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 9:12 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
For windshield removal take a blade to the rubber, inside and out. Carefully push the windshield forward with a helper.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 5:13 pm
Re: 1971 F250 2wd to 4wd project
Thanks for the tips on removing the windshield.
Making some progress on the truck.
Decided to go without a dash pad and just have a metal dash so I had fill some holes, which you can sort of see in the picture below. I had the truck turned up like this to apply POR 15 to the bottom.
Hung plastic in the shop and put together a makeshift paint booth and painted the cab. Shopline black basecoat with Deltron 4000 clear.
Since I am putting a 71 body on a 73 frame, I had to go ahead and mount the cab and then set the bed on to figure out what modifications are required to the bed prior to completing the body work. I know I have to move the fuel filler neck and will add some pictures of the relocation asap. For future reference if somebody is doing this same project, The bed must be raised in the front roughly 3/4 inches to line up with the cab. Rear does not need to be raised and sits directly on the frame. I trimmed 5/16 inch off the rear of the truck frame in order to get the bed to cab gap correct. Keep in mind I moved my leaf spring perches forward 1.75 inches. If I was doing it again i would move the perches forward 2 inches, but I its close enough to keep the cab to bed gap and have the tires centered up in the wheel wells.
Front fuel filler hole being plugged.
Here is some filler that was already on the truck. Not for sure what this stuff is, kind of like a gold colored JB weld. Anyway, I have ground it off and mig welded up the cracks and holes.
Making some progress on the truck.
Decided to go without a dash pad and just have a metal dash so I had fill some holes, which you can sort of see in the picture below. I had the truck turned up like this to apply POR 15 to the bottom.
Hung plastic in the shop and put together a makeshift paint booth and painted the cab. Shopline black basecoat with Deltron 4000 clear.
Since I am putting a 71 body on a 73 frame, I had to go ahead and mount the cab and then set the bed on to figure out what modifications are required to the bed prior to completing the body work. I know I have to move the fuel filler neck and will add some pictures of the relocation asap. For future reference if somebody is doing this same project, The bed must be raised in the front roughly 3/4 inches to line up with the cab. Rear does not need to be raised and sits directly on the frame. I trimmed 5/16 inch off the rear of the truck frame in order to get the bed to cab gap correct. Keep in mind I moved my leaf spring perches forward 1.75 inches. If I was doing it again i would move the perches forward 2 inches, but I its close enough to keep the cab to bed gap and have the tires centered up in the wheel wells.
Front fuel filler hole being plugged.
Here is some filler that was already on the truck. Not for sure what this stuff is, kind of like a gold colored JB weld. Anyway, I have ground it off and mig welded up the cracks and holes.