1968 f250 highboy

[hazelnut]

I had a 06 superduty and the front diff was way wider than my 69s. Can't remember the differance but i think it was like 8" wider.

[averagef250]

I had a 06 superduty and the front diff was way wider than my 69s. Can't remember the differance but i think it was like 8" wider.

Not really. The drum brake 4x4 front axles were a couple inches narrower than the disc brake axles, that's it. Front axle WMS width has stayed virtually the same from 1976 through 2013.

I built a low pinion open knuckle 35 spline 60 front from scratch for my '70 at one point. I made it the same overall width as the early drum brake axles. I figured out why they made them wider when they went to open knuckles when I went to put the 78-79 HP60 steering arm on. The stock steering arm hit the U-bolts! Had to machine a steering arm from scratch.

Koch- The superduty axles use the metric lug pattern and the unit bearings they use make them very un-desireable for swaps. The unit bearings can cost as much as an older HP 60 by themselves when you need to replace them.

I can't see you having a problem locating a good 76-79 F-250 4x4 44 front axle for a couple hundred bucks here in Oregon. We're well stocked with this stuff.

[koch68]

Ya I know that the lug is different I just saw one on craigslist and thought about it. I think im going to find a dana 44 do you think they are strong enough to hold up to a 6bt? And who would you reccomend for doing the boring on my 6bt. I will get some pictures of it and see what you guys think. Its pretty scared up.

[fordguy_78]

Well for the unit bearing axles it depends on the year ford went with bigger unit bearings and brakes in the later ones but you can also run 91.5 to 98 ball joint knuckles.

[averagef250]

Ya I know that the lug is different I just saw one on craigslist and thought about it. I think im going to find a dana 44 do you think they are strong enough to hold up to a 6bt? And who would you reccomend for doing the boring on my 6bt. I will get some pictures of it and see what you guys think. Its pretty scared up.

If it needs bored I would buy FP pistons/rings (plus all the gaskets/seals) from Cooper Tractor and have Canby Napa's machine shop do the bore and hone if you can spec the clearance you want to Steve. If you want first rate use Diesel Cast West and hand them a blank check. For an engine that's going to stay close to stock go tight, like .006" piston to bore. If you're going to rod the hell out of it loosen it up around .009 or .010". The looser you go the louder it'll rattle and the blacker your oil will be. Portland Engine Rebuilders will actually dynamic balance a 5.9 rotating assembly for around $150. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

No, I don't think a 44 is going to hold up long term under the weight of a 5.9 Cummins. I would expect a lot of ball joint wear.

I would probably go ahead with the engine install and keep a lookout for a deal on a 78-79 HP60 though. Balljoints are cheaper than a 60 I spose.

[koch68]

I think im going to need ti sleeve it. I mainly want it to be a million mile motor with the spring in the pump and 5I inch exhaust. But mostly stock. I have the old be pump to. Also I have the cooler deal that mounts on top of the head and am thinks its a cooler for the turbo not sire though? Ill get some pictures today

[averagef250]

I think im going to need ti sleeve it. I mainly want it to be a million mile motor with the spring in the pump and 5I inch exhaust. But mostly stock. I have the old be pump to. Also I have the cooler deal that mounts on top of the head and am thinks its a cooler for the turbo not sire though? Ill get some pictures today

Sleeving 6 holes costs more than a good running 5.9. .040" is the common size overbore for a 5.9 Cummins, commonrail max is .020.

Toss the W/A intercooler. Those things are only good for the rated HP of the engine and actually lose efficiency over non-IC because they're such a restriction. They are stainless steel, stainless doesn't conduct heat for beans.

A million mile Cummins is a stock 160 HP mechanical engine. If you want a great engine that you'll never get sick and tired of leave it alone. stock 3" exhaust with a quiet muffler and everything in good shape and you're truck will flat scoot, get great mileage and won't make people driving beside you want to plow into oncoming traffic because you're 5" megaphone exhaust is in their ear. They aren't lacking power at all. 160HP and 400 lb/ft is a lot of power. If everything's in good shape and you're making that power you won't need any more than that in a pickup.

Ridden in way to many loud, smoky and slow diesel trucks.

[koch68]

Ok. So my motor is a recon motor. and I don't know how much it has been bored im going to take it to get checked out soon. I just want the reliable motor with a nice sound. Would 4 inch straight pipe be a bad idea? Where would I find a block off plate for that intercooler? And should I go with a powerstroke one?

[koch68]

I got some pictures of the motor and also started tearing my front end apart for super duty springs and front receiver

Here's one of the worst cylinder

Piston

Motor and tranny

Front end tear down





Super duty springs and highboy springs

I will be combine them like 71ford did with his I like the height he got out of it.

[averagef250]

Can't tell if that's scoring in the pictures, usually when pistons melt they just get aluminum all over the bores. Hot tanking removes the aluminum, a light hone and slap good pistons and rings in. If it is scoring you need to measure how deep the scoring is or take it to a shop that can. If it doesn't clean up at .040" overbore then you can sleeve just the cylinders that need it. If you need to sleeve more than a couple it's worth finding a better engine.

Kind of curious how that damage happened? Looks like a medium duty engine. Not likely to be hot rodded so something had to go very wrong to melt a piston. Timing slipped, very overheated, blown intercooler boot?

It's your truck, put whatever exhaust you want on it. 5" is overkill to the extreme though. I'm just using the full stock 3" exhaust from a first gen dodge on my '70 because I have several complete exhausts from those trucks, but if I didn't I'd just buy a 4" kit for a dodge and adapt it. 4" is still overkill for most people, but it's the easiest thing to find.

[koch68]

Ya it seems scored but I don't know what needs to be bored or or honed or sleeved. Hoping for the best it was overheated by the thermostat staying closed then they kept driving it. Is what I was told. Should I ditch that intercooler or run it until I get the money to do it right? Also where the scaring is it seems like there is a layer chipping off at the top.

[koch68]

got some stuff done. i pulled the seat and floor mat i knew there was rust but i wasnt happy with what i found. it really isnt to bad. my windsheild leaks and that has been going on for who knows how long.
heres my new shackles still need to round them

d ring hanger for the front hitch decided to mill it instead of grinding i used a plasma to cut it.

now for the rust its just the floor everything esle seems solid.





i need to buy new floor pans and i am wondering if npd would be good? they seem cheaper then dc. and i heard lmc is junk. and on the side where the little rust holes are should i cut a piece from the juck yard?

[CrypticRacer13]

From what i hear NPD is pretty good with most things. Ive only bought small items form them an i have no complaints

[koch68]

i think im going to buy the npd pans then get the other pieces i need from the junkyard. but i need to know what kind of rust preventor and what i need to do to seal it all up im not doing a complete interior resto just the floor. so if i use rust preventor then primer then a sound deadener spray on stuff? i dont really care if the floor isnt the factory color as it will be covered up.

[koch68]

Front hitch almost done. Im going to use the front stock hangers to figure out where my wheel base is since the super duty springs are a litter longer. Once I have it mocked up and on its own weight I can take some measurements and figure out what the wheel base needs to be moved. On to pictures.