Bellhousing for a 4sp Toploader

[69timemachine]

I measured my '69 truck 3-speed and my '68 302 Mustang TopLoader that I will be using. The measurements from the tranny face to the end of the input shaft and also to the end of the release sleeve are exactly the same. So, it makes perfect sense that the bellhousing depths would be the same for 240/300 sixes and small block V8. Hope this helps!

[quantumleap]

all good information for me to use when i finally find my toploader...

[quantumleap]

anybody seen a picture of the david kee streetrod toploader with topshift tranny? think it will work for our trucks better than custom fitting the linkage?

[quantumleap]

who knows where the casting numbers are located on the bellhousing? mines kinda covered in grime

[fordman]

on the backside. where the trans bolts to the bell.

[quantumleap]

could be either driver or passenger side? i should probably just clean up the whole thing while im at it

[69timemachine]

On mine, I think it was where the transmission bolts up to. You have to have the tranny out to read it.

[quantumleap]

i figured as much...so its inside the actual housing?

[69timemachine]

Not on the inside where the flywheel and clutch go, but where the tranny bolts up, that face was slightly recessed and it was just above or below the hole for the trans input shaft. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

[quantumleap]

for sure, thanks for the help

[69timemachine]

Here's a few tidbits of info from my install. I stabbed my TopLoader nearly two weeks ago.

-The crossmember sits in the same exact spot as it did with the 3 on the tree. Also, my input and output splines on my particular TL were the same as the 3 on the tree.

-I reused my engine plate and bellhousing from the 240 & 3 on the tree with the 351C & TL.

-With some clever re-routing starting at the firewall, the speedo cable will reach the passenger's side so you don't have to purchase a longer cable.

-You will need to swap the speedo gear on the end of the cable for a new one meant for RH operation. (The NPD catalog has good info on this in the gear section. The gears are inexpensive too.)

-I built my own backup light switch bracket that locates next to the reverse arm, which pushes a microswitch to turn on the backup lamps.

-I Ebayed my '68 Mustang tailhousing and sprung for the DKT tailhousing for the extra shifter mount locations.

-I'm currently using a '66 Mustang 4-speed factory shifter. It's mounted in the forward-most position for the 3-bolt shifter base. I shortened the rods by the proper amounts. I took the stick off and stuck it in the press to bend it straight but it still bumped the bench seat by about 1 inch in R, 2nd, & 4th. I put it in the press again and put about a 20-degree bend toward the ten-o-clock position and now it clears the seat by 1 inch, and the stick points more towards the driver side. Just remember this is with the seat all the way back. I'm a big boy, so the seat will never be moved forward. My arm is extended all the way to reach 1st and 3rd, but it's not bad. I also ordered a '66 Mustang shifter boot belzel from the NPD Mustang catalog, so the install does look very stock. When I have an extra $350 lying around, I'll upgrade to an entire Hurst setup for the better precision and wide selection of sticks. But for now, stock will do.

-Lastly, I measured my driveshaft and took it to the local shop to get it shortened by 8.5 inches. But I would reccomend measuring your own shaft to be sure and not to go by someone else's numbers.

Hope this helps!

[quantumleap]

very informative! thankyou.

[69timemachine]

I thought I had a pic of it dead-on from the rear, but apparently not. See the recessed area and the number at the bottom? I don't remember what my number was for sure, but I believe mine started with C5 and ended with A.

[quantumleap]

thats a real beauty you got there!

[69timemachine]

Thanks! I tried to crop it down for a better look at the bellhousing, but they quality turned sorry when I did. So I just posted the whole pic.