rjewkes wrote:..the rust coulda built on the cylynder walls.
I agree with this assessment. Picture a motor setting. Now picture a cylinder with the piston low in the cylinder and the intake valve open allowing moist air to enter. If the motor was pulled three years ago and left sitting without sealing the top of the carb off, even inside a building, the moisture in the air could condense on the cylinder walls during sudden temp changes. This water would settle down against the top ring. Over three years this could build up quit a bit of rust just above that top ring. .
I say pull the head and get a look see. You could use some emery cloth by hand if it is not too bad. I would tear it down and replace rings, bearings and hone all the cylinders top to bottom.
As alway, let us know what you find.
Lee
My 1969 F100 Gallery
[Please note: A lot of what I write may be common knowledge to some of us. But for a new comer and even us at one time, somebody had to inform us that FIRST time.]
by any chance could it have water in the cylinders. I got a 302 that had gotten water in it and would only turn slightly. Sorry but I don't have any other ideas
1971 F-100 swb 401 fe , edelbrock intake, cam, valve covers, longtube headers with twin 2.5 inch exhaust, aluminum wheels.
1965 Mustang 350 glide 7.45 at 90mph
1972 maverick 460 swap in progress
2002 z28 a few bolt ons
FordTruck wrote:It'l olny turn about a quarter of turn with a rachet and a braker bar on the crank bolt. It'll go about a quarter one way then stops like its loked up then it'll go back the other way about a quarter then locks again. Everytime I go out there and try it'll move a little bit further. Also I don't have a starter on it because its on my 70 and I still have to run wires for it.
So when you say it will move a little further each time are you saying that its not a hard stop? If you get to the stop and you can nudge it and its moving, its not something jammed against something else, you just have an area of friction to overcome, be it rust, a dead animal in the bellhousing or whatever. If its a hard stop then its more serious. If its metal on metal you should hear it tapping. Id say if it ran before, its hard to beleive something just broke while sitting.
I assume the tranny is in neutral and all? Just checking.
-Jeff
1971 F-100 240 straight six, 3 on the tree (parted out)
1972 F-100 302 auto trans, pwr steering, pwr brakes (under construction)
"Things are more like they are now than they ever were before" Dwight Eisenhower
FordTruck wrote:It'l olny turn about a quarter of turn with a rachet and a braker bar on the crank bolt. It'll go about a quarter one way then stops like its loked up then it'll go back the other way about a quarter then locks again. Everytime I go out there and try it'll move a little bit further. Also I don't have a starter on it because its on my 70 and I still have to run wires for it.
So when you say it will move a little further each time are you saying that its not a hard stop? If you get to the stop and you can nudge it and its moving, its not something jammed against something else, you just have an area of friction to overcome, be it rust, a dead animal in the bellhousing or whatever. If its a hard stop then its more serious. If its metal on metal you should hear it tapping. Id say if it ran before, its hard to beleive something just broke while sitting.
I assume the tranny is in neutral and all? Just checking.
Right now I'm letting it sit with PB Blaster in the cylinders and later I'm gonna hook the impact up to it and see what it does. I'm not shure what gear its in but I thought with an auto it didn't really matter.
"Flyin High On Caffine And Copenhagen" R.I.P Chris LeDoux
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
If you are set on not pulling the head, then be patient and give the PB Blaster time to work. Keep working the crank back and forth with a breaker bar not an impact.
If this is just a junk motor to tool around the junk yard with, then who cares? If this is going into something you want to be proud of and show off, then do it right and pull the head.
I might point out Emory cloth is just a few buck and a new head gasket a few. Pull the head first and maybe save a lot in the long run.
Question: Is the transmission the same one that was on it when it ran? If not, are you sure the converter is a good one? (Just thinking outside the box like Flyboy71 was.)
Lee
My 1969 F100 Gallery
[Please note: A lot of what I write may be common knowledge to some of us. But for a new comer and even us at one time, somebody had to inform us that FIRST time.]
FordTruck wrote:… later I'm gonna hook the impact up to it and see what it does.
Remember you will be TIGHTENING the crank bolt with an IMPACT. It of course will only work going one way and will be a real pain to remove when you are done.
Lee
My 1969 F100 Gallery
[Please note: A lot of what I write may be common knowledge to some of us. But for a new comer and even us at one time, somebody had to inform us that FIRST time.]
I've had luck breaking loose stuck motors and I also bent one rod trying.
Keep oiling with a thin oil (atf or marvel or pb blast) and working it , it might take days . You have nothing to lose but time.
If you can get a flywheel turner tool on the ring gear you can get more leverge and you won't break the crank bolt.
Keep the plugs out until you're ready to start it.
My take on this is that not one....but two cylinders have rusted while sitting. Perhaps not badly but it doesnt take much when you consider the close tolerances inside a cylinder and piston assembly.Those two cylinders will be the ones nearest the bottom of their stroke on either the intake or exhaust stroke. Meaning the valves for those cylinders were open while sitting allowing the outside environment over time to do some damage. That would leave a good portion of the cylinder walls rusted which is why it turns a little one way and then the other.....it stops when the piston ring comes into contact with the rust on the upward stroke each time. Each time it does you are essentially using the rings as a scraper inside the cylinder. Going slowly and not forcing it is a necessity if you wish to escape with minimal internal damage. Continuing to turn and lube after it breaks free is also a very good idea. Remember you will have the residue from the scraping in there and it needs to work itself out.
Presently in the stable
1969 Ford F-350 DRW
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe ( It gets me to work and back and fetches parts and groceries)
1981 Buick Regal ( My deceased uncles last project/driver....renamed project Regal Eagle to be finished in his honor)
1990 Ford F-150 ( Miss Yvonnes Daily Driver )
My F-350 project http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=41744
Ok heres another outside the box idea but if there was a way to heat the block, say by heating the coolant or circulating hot water through the block, the cylinder walls may expand enough to minimize damage or even allow it to overcome the rust friction. Just a thought.
-Jeff
1971 F-100 240 straight six, 3 on the tree (parted out)
1972 F-100 302 auto trans, pwr steering, pwr brakes (under construction)
"Things are more like they are now than they ever were before" Dwight Eisenhower
