390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Time for an update! I got the edelbrock heads mounted last week. ARP head bolts for fasteners. They fit perfect and look great too!
Large
After a lot of consideration, I decided to go with Dove roller tip rockers. The ersons are really nice, but I got the Doves and pushrods plus tax for less than the ersons cost.
Large
I used ARP studs to hold them down. Then I discovered that the 'stock' length pushrods were too long. At 9.157" they were tight even with the adjusters all the way out. I ordered some 9.057" length ball and cup pushrods from Manton and they will be here tommorow. Once I have these I can finish assembly and get it back into the truck. Hopefully by this weekend I'll have a running truck again! I'll take some video of the initial start.
Large
After a lot of consideration, I decided to go with Dove roller tip rockers. The ersons are really nice, but I got the Doves and pushrods plus tax for less than the ersons cost.
Large
I used ARP studs to hold them down. Then I discovered that the 'stock' length pushrods were too long. At 9.157" they were tight even with the adjusters all the way out. I ordered some 9.057" length ball and cup pushrods from Manton and they will be here tommorow. Once I have these I can finish assembly and get it back into the truck. Hopefully by this weekend I'll have a running truck again! I'll take some video of the initial start.
Scott
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Man that looks sweet!
I just saw a cool tip the other day on checking centering of the roller tip. In the past, I've always used a black marker, but this guy used a piece of paper. Made a perfect imprint of the valve stem and roller. I think on my next engine I'll try that.
What do you plan to do to check this?
I noticed you're not using Glyptol. Ever try it? Any reason (besides the rediculous cost) why you aren't?
I just saw a cool tip the other day on checking centering of the roller tip. In the past, I've always used a black marker, but this guy used a piece of paper. Made a perfect imprint of the valve stem and roller. I think on my next engine I'll try that.
What do you plan to do to check this?
I noticed you're not using Glyptol. Ever try it? Any reason (besides the rediculous cost) why you aren't?
Scott
1972 F250 Explorer C/S, 390-2V, Dual exhaust, C6, Goose neck ball in bed
New and improved with Tilt Wheel, Intermittent Wipers, 2005 Bench seat and 5th wheel camper!...
Life is *very* good!
1972 F250 Explorer C/S, 390-2V, Dual exhaust, C6, Goose neck ball in bed
New and improved with Tilt Wheel, Intermittent Wipers, 2005 Bench seat and 5th wheel camper!...
Life is *very* good!
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
I haven't tried glyptol, but I did consider it. I really just didn't feel like doing it. If I was building this motor for the track I would have but it didn't seem to be needed in a street application.
I like the paper idea on the rockers! I have been using dye-chem which is basically the same as a magic marker.
I like the paper idea on the rockers! I have been using dye-chem which is basically the same as a magic marker.
Scott
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
- thebannister8
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
looking good
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Well got the 390 running over the weekend. Break in went well, no odd sounds and runs great. I got a couple of photos of it installed that i'll post soon.
The only real issue is a strange hissing sound coming from it after shutdown. It is coming from the drivers side near the front of the motor. It sounds like air leaking and it lasts 10 seconds or so. Right after shutdown you can hear it hissing pretty good, it goes for 8-10 seconds and fades away. I thought at first it was the #5 spark plug leaking, tried a new plug, checked the gasket, etc... but no change. I tried spraying some soapy solution on the front area of the motor including the front two spark plugs, and oil cap, but no bubbles anywhere. It does it after every shutdown. Any ideas on that one? There are no fluid leaks at all, no coolant in the oil, and no bubbles in the coolant.
The engine runs really good. The exhaust is too restrictive, I still have the the old 2" pipes and mufflers on it. I have an appointment to get a new exhaust system put on it on Wed and I'm hoping that will open it up a bit, it feels choked down at WOT. I haven't really gotten on it hard yet because the rings aren't broken in, have to keep driving it to get 'em done. I may end up putting headers on it if it still feels choked down, but I'm going to try the larger exhaust system first. 2.5" to the muffler and 2.25" to the tail pipe with some flowmasters is the plan, running both down the passenger side because of the aux fuel tank.
The only real issue is a strange hissing sound coming from it after shutdown. It is coming from the drivers side near the front of the motor. It sounds like air leaking and it lasts 10 seconds or so. Right after shutdown you can hear it hissing pretty good, it goes for 8-10 seconds and fades away. I thought at first it was the #5 spark plug leaking, tried a new plug, checked the gasket, etc... but no change. I tried spraying some soapy solution on the front area of the motor including the front two spark plugs, and oil cap, but no bubbles anywhere. It does it after every shutdown. Any ideas on that one? There are no fluid leaks at all, no coolant in the oil, and no bubbles in the coolant.
The engine runs really good. The exhaust is too restrictive, I still have the the old 2" pipes and mufflers on it. I have an appointment to get a new exhaust system put on it on Wed and I'm hoping that will open it up a bit, it feels choked down at WOT. I haven't really gotten on it hard yet because the rings aren't broken in, have to keep driving it to get 'em done. I may end up putting headers on it if it still feels choked down, but I'm going to try the larger exhaust system first. 2.5" to the muffler and 2.25" to the tail pipe with some flowmasters is the plan, running both down the passenger side because of the aux fuel tank.
Scott
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
I am looking at headers for my truck. Does anyone know if the hedman 6905HKR will work with a 390, Auto trans (C6), stock starter, and bendix power steering?
Here is a link that hopefully loads up to those headers:
Headers
Here is a link that hopefully loads up to those headers:
Headers
Scott
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Air leak in your cooling system like the radiator cap, hoses,...etc?
Engine will be tight for a few hundred miles, you will feel it loosen up.
I like Stan's tri-y's. good quality without leak issues .
HV pump was used to solve a starvation at the heads along with opening up the oil galleries in the block. Solve the lower starvation problem with a baffle in the pan and "6" quarts of oil.
Performer intake will really depend on your application. Lots of towing and hauling with an occasional baking of a 1500 shouldn't be a problem. You want to bake em at the track, better go with the RPM.
Engine will be tight for a few hundred miles, you will feel it loosen up.
I like Stan's tri-y's. good quality without leak issues .
HV pump was used to solve a starvation at the heads along with opening up the oil galleries in the block. Solve the lower starvation problem with a baffle in the pan and "6" quarts of oil.
Performer intake will really depend on your application. Lots of towing and hauling with an occasional baking of a 1500 shouldn't be a problem. You want to bake em at the track, better go with the RPM.
Ken
Greenville, SC
68 F100 LWB 390
67 LTD 390(4V T-bird Special)
74 Bronco 351W
"I sincerely believe... that banking establishments are more dangerous than standing armies, and that the principle of spending money to be paid by posterity under the name of funding is but swindling futurity on a large scale." --Thomas Jefferson to John Taylor, 1816. ME 15:23
Greenville, SC
68 F100 LWB 390
67 LTD 390(4V T-bird Special)
74 Bronco 351W
"I sincerely believe... that banking establishments are more dangerous than standing armies, and that the principle of spending money to be paid by posterity under the name of funding is but swindling futurity on a large scale." --Thomas Jefferson to John Taylor, 1816. ME 15:23
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
So I have about 100 miles on the new engine now. Here is a photo of it installed before it had been started:
Since I got it running I have also done:
Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor
Pertronix Flamethrower coil
Hooker Headers
2.5" exhaust w/flowmasters
Electric Fuel pump conversion
Rebuilt the carb
It turned out that the hissing sound was the fuel pump. The pressure was bleeding down into the crankcase as far as I can tell. I disconnected it and put in an electric pump back near the tank, the hissing sound went away and the engine ran better. The fuel pressure is far more consistent too. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the dual-splitter fuel inlet going to the carb and it was jumping around like crazy from 2-5 PSI with the mechanical pump. With the electric it's a consistent 6 psi. I got a facet pump and mounted right next to the fuel selector valve under the cab.
I couldn't get the idle to be consistent. The timing would move everytime you revved the motor, the mechanical advance wasn't returning everytime, sometimes it would leave some advance in, othertimes it would work OK. Turns out the 'rebuilt' distributor I bought for $40 at kragen was worth what I paid for it. I got a pertronix billet distributor and now the timing is rock solid. After I put the billet distributor on it would die at stop lights. Once the engine was warm it would start cutting out at idle when it was in gear. Turned out the brand new 'stock' coil was either defective or wasn't up to the job so I got the coil that pertronix sells to go with their distributor. That eliminated that problem.
I wasn't really impressed with the power the motor was making, it seemed pretty weak for what it was. I still had the stock 2" exhaust and old blown out mufflers on it. So I ordered some hooker headers 6903. I originally ordered 6905 headers but found out that those don't fit, they are for a 4WD truck. The 6903 fit like a glove, even with my oversize bendix steering box. No mods required. I followed up with a 2.5" full dual exhaust out the side just in front of the passenger side rear wheel and with dual flowmasters and some chrome tips. The sound is great! Its loud and rowdy, but not obnoxious unless you put your foot into it. The power difference is astounding. It made a HUGE difference in power and acceleration. Now it puts out the kind of power I was expecting.
Next up is a hesitation when you hit the throttle off the line. I rebuilt the carb, it had been sitting for a couple of years. It didn't make much difference though I'm still working on that hesitation. I've got an accelerator pump cam kit from holley to try some different accel pump profiles that hopefully should fix the problem.
Once I started driving it I also discovered chassis and other drivetrain problems. Bad rear wheel bearing. A rear brake spring broke. tie rods worn out. Drag link worn out. Replaced all of that. Had a front end alignment, drives like new! (but with a LOT more power)
Anyways, pics coming with the headers installed, maybe a video of it running.
Since I got it running I have also done:
Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor
Pertronix Flamethrower coil
Hooker Headers
2.5" exhaust w/flowmasters
Electric Fuel pump conversion
Rebuilt the carb
It turned out that the hissing sound was the fuel pump. The pressure was bleeding down into the crankcase as far as I can tell. I disconnected it and put in an electric pump back near the tank, the hissing sound went away and the engine ran better. The fuel pressure is far more consistent too. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the dual-splitter fuel inlet going to the carb and it was jumping around like crazy from 2-5 PSI with the mechanical pump. With the electric it's a consistent 6 psi. I got a facet pump and mounted right next to the fuel selector valve under the cab.
I couldn't get the idle to be consistent. The timing would move everytime you revved the motor, the mechanical advance wasn't returning everytime, sometimes it would leave some advance in, othertimes it would work OK. Turns out the 'rebuilt' distributor I bought for $40 at kragen was worth what I paid for it. I got a pertronix billet distributor and now the timing is rock solid. After I put the billet distributor on it would die at stop lights. Once the engine was warm it would start cutting out at idle when it was in gear. Turned out the brand new 'stock' coil was either defective or wasn't up to the job so I got the coil that pertronix sells to go with their distributor. That eliminated that problem.
I wasn't really impressed with the power the motor was making, it seemed pretty weak for what it was. I still had the stock 2" exhaust and old blown out mufflers on it. So I ordered some hooker headers 6903. I originally ordered 6905 headers but found out that those don't fit, they are for a 4WD truck. The 6903 fit like a glove, even with my oversize bendix steering box. No mods required. I followed up with a 2.5" full dual exhaust out the side just in front of the passenger side rear wheel and with dual flowmasters and some chrome tips. The sound is great! Its loud and rowdy, but not obnoxious unless you put your foot into it. The power difference is astounding. It made a HUGE difference in power and acceleration. Now it puts out the kind of power I was expecting.
Next up is a hesitation when you hit the throttle off the line. I rebuilt the carb, it had been sitting for a couple of years. It didn't make much difference though I'm still working on that hesitation. I've got an accelerator pump cam kit from holley to try some different accel pump profiles that hopefully should fix the problem.
Once I started driving it I also discovered chassis and other drivetrain problems. Bad rear wheel bearing. A rear brake spring broke. tie rods worn out. Drag link worn out. Replaced all of that. Had a front end alignment, drives like new! (but with a LOT more power)
Anyways, pics coming with the headers installed, maybe a video of it running.
Scott
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
- ezernut9mm
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
some good info here. i will be "watching" this thread.
wanting to buy a mercury tailgate!
"the man who is swimming against the stream knows the strength of it".- woodrow wilson
"the man who is swimming against the stream knows the strength of it".- woodrow wilson
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
That's great news!
Looks awesome all cleaned up and shiny in the engine compartment.
Sounds like things are coming along really well. Definitely looking forward to seeing how your exhaust came out.
Looks awesome all cleaned up and shiny in the engine compartment.
Sounds like things are coming along really well. Definitely looking forward to seeing how your exhaust came out.
Scott
1972 F250 Explorer C/S, 390-2V, Dual exhaust, C6, Goose neck ball in bed
New and improved with Tilt Wheel, Intermittent Wipers, 2005 Bench seat and 5th wheel camper!...
Life is *very* good!
1972 F250 Explorer C/S, 390-2V, Dual exhaust, C6, Goose neck ball in bed
New and improved with Tilt Wheel, Intermittent Wipers, 2005 Bench seat and 5th wheel camper!...
Life is *very* good!
- seattle67
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Looks great. This has been an interesting thread, thanks for sharing in such detail.
Dan
"I plan to start procastinating immediately"
"I plan to start procastinating immediately"
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Very nice, good information too!
I've always said the exhaust is the real weak link on our trucks with an FE.
I've always said the exhaust is the real weak link on our trucks with an FE.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Here are some photos of the install pretty much completed. Now it's time to move on to tranny and body work. The trans is slipping some, I plan to do an E4OD swap to get some overdrive action, as well as lock-up torque converter. The truck has 4.10 gears so it is really humming on the freeway!
Large
It is running great. I had to swap out the pcv canister/breather to larger aftermarket one because it was causing oil to blow out of engine in all kind of strange spots. So that pretty much finishes up this build, now on to the rest of the truck!
Large
It is running great. I had to swap out the pcv canister/breather to larger aftermarket one because it was causing oil to blow out of engine in all kind of strange spots. So that pretty much finishes up this build, now on to the rest of the truck!
Scott
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
68 F250 CS LWB
390FE, C6
- Happy_Camper
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Re: 390FE Build Take 2 (Pictures)
Came out great! I like the way you painted the distributor cap to match the body.
Should be a great performer!
I'll be interested to hear how the E040D goes. I read something somewhere about a pretty good stand alone ECM for this transmission.
Should be a great performer!
I'll be interested to hear how the E040D goes. I read something somewhere about a pretty good stand alone ECM for this transmission.
Scott
1972 F250 Explorer C/S, 390-2V, Dual exhaust, C6, Goose neck ball in bed
New and improved with Tilt Wheel, Intermittent Wipers, 2005 Bench seat and 5th wheel camper!...
Life is *very* good!
1972 F250 Explorer C/S, 390-2V, Dual exhaust, C6, Goose neck ball in bed
New and improved with Tilt Wheel, Intermittent Wipers, 2005 Bench seat and 5th wheel camper!...
Life is *very* good!