Will it start after 6 years? 69 F100

[My427stang]

My guess is spark also

How did you install/adjust the points?

Also did you replace the condensor?

Final question, and it will sound silly, but even salty old professionals do it.

Did you put the rotor back on before you put the distributor cap on?

[Nate's69F100]

Hello everyone,

We had a very frustrating day. Still can't get the truck to start. I haven't yet replaced the points and condenser. (I thought it was already done!) I checked for spark and there was none. I also checked for a spark from the coil lead and there was none there either. So the problem must be electrical, right? I'm a bit confused about changing the points. All that I have I read says the points must be high on the cam before removal because it can mess up the timing. I just can't figure out what this means. Can you tell I don't know very much? I don't have any of the proper testing equipment either. So after the rain and frustration today we had to give it up. My son will introduce himself and post pics tomorrow.

I want to say again, thanks to all of you for your helpful advice. And thanks for making it a welcoming place for the young guys. This was my dads truck (he passed away many years ago) and I promised it to my son if he could get it running.

Becky

[fordman]

when they say high on the cam they mean the points should be to thier opening point, inside the dist is a shaft on that shaft is a 8 sided hexagon. the hexagon has flat spots and corners. the high spots are those corners. the high points opem the points. so when they say high on the cam they mean the points shhould be to thier opening point sitting right on top of one of those high points and should be open at that time. i hope that explains it.changing or adjusting the points and condensor could be the fastest way to fix the no spark problem. at least check the gap on the points. they should be .017 with a 10.00 feeler guage. when they are open on the highest point of the hexagon little cam.

[willowbilly3]

I just bought an old pickup that had sat for a few years and found the key in the on position. If it was parked with the points closed (and it was) the points will be fried. Sometimes they just corrode if they sat open and a quick pass or two between the contacts with a points file (or one of your old nail files) might be all it takes. In a nutshell, points are miserable little troublemakers. If you have an extra $79, you might want to trip on over to the local O'Rielly's and get a Petronix 1284 kit. That eliminates the points forever and is a very easy install.
Also before condemning the points, you might want to take a test light and make sure you have power at the coil + with the key on. If you don't have a test light you need to get one. They are inexpensive and a must for any electrical trouble shooting.

[FORDification]

Here's a couple pics that should give you the needed visual (click to enlarge):

POINTS OPEN - The rubbing block on the points is resting on the high side of the distributor cam lobe


POINTS CLOSED - The rubbing block on the points is resting between the distributor cam lobes

[willowbilly3]

Now that right there is why

[DuckRyder]

And if its a six cylinder it should actually be a Hexagon (6 sided).

Great advice you've gotten so far, I haven't bought any points and condensor in along time, but Standard Blue Streak used to be good stuff for domestic cars and trucks.

[FORDification]

Now that right there is why

Thanks J.B....I took those pictures quite a while ago and have been hanging onto them. I figured they'd come in handy some day.

[71 LONG BED]

Welcome aboard Becky and Nate! It is great he will have is Grampys truck! I wish I had my Grandfathers truck.
Don't give up yet, your almost there.
Before you rebuild the carb, you may want to just clean it out. 4 bolts, the fuel line and the linkage is all it takes to remove it. Then you can work in the comfort of the garage, basement, or even his bedroom. Take it apart and soak it in gas, or spray it with carb cleaner. Someone else here will be able to walk you through it in more detail.

P.S. Don't forget the pics!!

[Nate's69F100]

Hot dog!!! It started! We definitely could not have done it without you guys. All it took was replacing the condenser, points and correct settings. The explanations and photos were exactly what we needed. The alternator makes an awful noise though. When I took it to have it checked I was told it was good and that the noise would eventually stop after it's been run a while. Hope so. I was not expecting the nest that was blown out of the tail pipe though! Although it starts it can't be driven until tires are replaced along with the brakes. Last time I drove it I think I could have stopped it better if I stuck my foot out the door! Of course we now have to check and repair everything else. The main thing was to just see if it would start before investing into all the rest. Nate has a Chilton's manual and I've suggested that he go through it page by page.
As was posted above:

Now that right there is why

So very true!
Again...thanks! It's worth it to see my 16 year old almost brought to happy tears because of a truck.

Becky

[td]

congratsulations!! proud to hear its running.
if you think he is smiling now wait until you see him gettin to drive it down the road

[two-bit]

AWESOME!!!!
I have been following your progress step by step. Congrats on getting it fired up.
Learn that Chiltons, cover to cover. By the time you get done with your truck, you'll know it better than your own bedroom.

There is something to be said for self-reliance. It looks like you have a really big dose of it coming down the line from your MOM!!!

Your bump will teach you somethings you never knew. Listen to every story from every "old" guy who tells how his brother had one just like that back in '75. You never know, the brother still might have it, and maybe be willing to sell some parts you need
Not to mention the occasional tow you might need. (Sometimes bumps break down )

Enough preaching from me.

Enjoy your bump, and the noise in the alternator probably won't go away.
Check in with us ANYTIME, some one will be hereto help.

Two-bit

[cdherman]

My 65 with a 240 sat from 1988 to 2002, 14 years. Started with some new gas just tossed in the tank and a battery. Not the recomended procedure.


If I were thinking of letting a son drive an old truck, I'd be thinking about brakes from here on. I'd suggest that the brake section is first to be read. Get new hoses. Get new cylinders for the brake drums. Get a brake pliers (very helpful in removing and placeing the springs). The hard part is learning the sequence how to put a drum brake setup back together.

I'd take it all apart and then bleed out the metal brake lines till they are running clear on the ground. Then install the new flexible lines, new wheel cylinders etc. If the shoes are completely trashed, then you may have to get new shoes and have the drums turned (turning drums = haveing a shop remove the metal ridges that have formed). But if the shoes are more or less intact, just put em back on for now.

Make him START with learning how to make it STOP!!!!

[papabug71]

Glad to hear the old timer started up. Thats great!

Thats a solid looking old Ford you guys have. I know your son is a happy camper right now as well!

[willowbilly3]

So cool. I can remember being a teen ager and the first fire up on an old vehicle, kinda like your first kiss only more memorable.

One thing about points, kind of a moot point now , condensers really have nothing to wear out. If the wire is still supple there is no reason to replace it. I have only ever seen a couple bad ones and they were bad out of the box.
as far as brake spring tools, you only need 2. One is kind of a dogleg shaped tool for the springs (I like it much better than the pliers) and the other is a screwdive handled too to remove the hold down discs. Always do one side at a time so you can always look at the other side to get it right.
Well when you get into that we can deal with it then.