Natalies 67- Bump

[BlueOvalDave]

Yes it is but I need to get my pinion angle down. It's pointing up towards the bed, I need to get it to point towards the trans.

And while I'm here, anyone have an idea why my headlights are flickering bright to dim, and I lost my taillights but I do have brake and turn signals. I can hear the headlight switch faintly clicking while the lights are going goofy. I replaced the switch. No change. I thought maybe in the process of chopping the bed and frame I screwed up a ground so I ran a dedicated ground from the battery negative to the frame and another from the bed to the frame in the rear. Still no good. It was working fine before the chop though.

I'm open to all ideas.

[cole71]

Right, so with the thick end toward the front it points the angle down? That's what I was confused on which way should the shim be placed to either drop or raise the angle.

[BlueOvalDave]

yes it points it down

[cole71]

Ok thanks for clearing that up! I thought it was the other way for some reason?

[BlueOvalDave]

no problem I think I was scratching my head too when I first got them.

Now if you could fix my lighting problem...................

J/K
This yellow/black connection is getting quite warm, almost too hot. I dont have any additional lights that would necessitate the need for a relay, seeing as how it functioned fine for all these years without one.

[BlueOvalDave]

I figgered it out. Heat made me think resistance, which further cemented my belief that I screwed something up when I did the chop. That connector is for the running and tail lights so upon backtracking the wiring again it was pinched in between the gas tank and frame, which must have happened when I dropped it to weld the rear frame brace in.

Whew, like I need any more problems. All good, thanks for looking!

[Craigerf100]

Hey none of your photos are working

[cole71]

Glad it was a simple fix!

[BlueOvalDave]

Wooops, I inadvertently deleted them. Here they are




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[Craigerf100]

What Do they call that paint, satin black? Love the look. The same look I'm going for. What motor is that again? Great project repost More pics

[BlueOvalDave]

It's val-spar low gloss black, also known as John Deere black, blitz black etc. 30 dollars for a gallon, it's oil based so it does have it's drawbacks. It will fade over time, it shows hand and fingerprints. The plusses are the price, you can touch up any scratches with a sharpie and you can shoot it in your garage with a run of the mill breathing regulator. If you choose to repaint with a real automotive paint the car will have to be stripped, (as there will be a reaction between paints) which is what we plan to do this winter. This is just a stopgap measure as there is a ton of body work that needs to be done, and will get done proper now that I'm not as rushed.

But thanks for the nice words fellas, always appreciated

[rumblin46]

Dave...Any chance you can re-upload the roof repair? In process of doing some right now:

https://flic.kr/p/nHkcDe

https://flic.kr/p/nH3gSV

[BlueOvalDave]

soon as I get home this afternoon. Computer I'm on now wont let me see your flicker acct.

[BlueOvalDave]

First off, That's a nice sounding GT. And your from The Land Of Corruption too, being a Mustang mod motor guy are you familiar with Mike Post? Very good ford tuner. Anyway back to the roof, it appears you have a complete donor roof which will probably make your job that much easier, but I'm not so sure that my repairs will do you any good but here goes. Very amateurish work on my part but I'm more interested in the mechanicals than the aesthetics. I really need to redo the mud work, maybe this winter
The hardest part will be chasing the rust around to find good metal to weld to. In some areas I backed it up with strips of 18 ga so I wouldnt blow thru. Good luck




bums/u63/BlueOvalDave/nanas%20bump/nanasbump029.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[rumblin46]

Thanks for the pics, looks pretty good all things considered. Thanks for the comments on the car (it's for sale ) and I do know Mike, he tuned the car!