Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Moderator: FORDification
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Still feeling like crap but I did manage an hour or so this evening out in the garage.
Got the headliner installed, looks ok. Its Gray just like the factory would be. I did not think I liked it at first but its growing on me now. Keeps the top of the cab a little lighter than if it was black.
After a lot of screwing around with the side mirror, its finally back on the truck. The actual Mirror portion still needs a little bit of work but Ill deal with that later down the road once its at least driven under its own power.
New rubber, new screws and here it is all mounted up. Looks alright, still not super happy but I think it will work.
I am trying to get tires figured out at this point but at a little bit of a stand still. I am running 8.5's up front and 10.5's in the rear and need them to be a fairly short sidewall, 20's are big.
What are your recommended tire sizes?
Also, I need to figure out a steering wheel. Thinking about doing a 15" stock style steering wheel. but the Billed low dish wheels would be more comfortable and I think drive a lot better.
Sean
Sean
Got the headliner installed, looks ok. Its Gray just like the factory would be. I did not think I liked it at first but its growing on me now. Keeps the top of the cab a little lighter than if it was black.
After a lot of screwing around with the side mirror, its finally back on the truck. The actual Mirror portion still needs a little bit of work but Ill deal with that later down the road once its at least driven under its own power.
New rubber, new screws and here it is all mounted up. Looks alright, still not super happy but I think it will work.
I am trying to get tires figured out at this point but at a little bit of a stand still. I am running 8.5's up front and 10.5's in the rear and need them to be a fairly short sidewall, 20's are big.
What are your recommended tire sizes?
Also, I need to figure out a steering wheel. Thinking about doing a 15" stock style steering wheel. but the Billed low dish wheels would be more comfortable and I think drive a lot better.
Sean
Sean
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Stopped by Aarons place and chatted with him for a little bit after work. Hood is about finished up and door panels are all done so I brought those home tonight. We are going to fit up the frontend and get the hood on Thursday night. Will be the first time seeing the truck all together since August of last year.
Got one door buttoned up tonight, somehow I managed to misplace one of the window cranks....So passenger side still needs one of those but panels are on and the inner latch releases and arm rests are in.
Doors are a little stark but I think they are very fitting for the look I am shooting for.....very clean stockish appearing from the outside looking in. Wish I had a different shifter, I might get the aluminum cover and lever powdercoated black to blend in with the floor better.
Sean
Got one door buttoned up tonight, somehow I managed to misplace one of the window cranks....So passenger side still needs one of those but panels are on and the inner latch releases and arm rests are in.
Doors are a little stark but I think they are very fitting for the look I am shooting for.....very clean stockish appearing from the outside looking in. Wish I had a different shifter, I might get the aluminum cover and lever powdercoated black to blend in with the floor better.
Sean
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Coilovers got installed tonight and kind of adjusted. Already looks and feels better than the stock crap. Pretty easy install too. Mike Naake put a great front setup together.
Steady progress, little bits every night.
Tomorrow is hood and align front sheetmetal with painter and a little bit of wiring.
Got a laundry list of stuff to order now, Exhaust being the big thing.
Sean
Steady progress, little bits every night.
Tomorrow is hood and align front sheetmetal with painter and a little bit of wiring.
Got a laundry list of stuff to order now, Exhaust being the big thing.
Sean
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 9866
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Looks great!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Thanks man!!
I managed to finish up the rest of the wiring in the engine bay, all loomed landed grommeted and ran into the cabin.
Aaron and Chris showed up and got right to it. We got the hood on and rough aligned and then went to work on shimming up the core support. Once it was at the right height, we squared it all up and got the hood final aligned, hood latch installed and done.
Thanks again to those guys at Southbound Customs!!
I have only seen this thing one time all complete, but it looked nothing like this. The hood totally changed what this thing looks like.
Also managed to get the right window cranks on the truck. The ones from LMC sucked.
I picked up fluids for it today. I am going to try and make a darn good push this weekend and hope to maybe try and start it in the next week or so.
Thanks for following along.
Sean
I managed to finish up the rest of the wiring in the engine bay, all loomed landed grommeted and ran into the cabin.
Aaron and Chris showed up and got right to it. We got the hood on and rough aligned and then went to work on shimming up the core support. Once it was at the right height, we squared it all up and got the hood final aligned, hood latch installed and done.
Thanks again to those guys at Southbound Customs!!
I have only seen this thing one time all complete, but it looked nothing like this. The hood totally changed what this thing looks like.
Also managed to get the right window cranks on the truck. The ones from LMC sucked.
I picked up fluids for it today. I am going to try and make a darn good push this weekend and hope to maybe try and start it in the next week or so.
Thanks for following along.
Sean
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
- Alstoyz
- Preferred User
- Posts: 289
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 10:43 pm
- Location: Gainesville, Tx
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Sean.
VERY SAWEET!!! Even tho it has a brand "x" motor, it looks really nice...
VERY SAWEET!!! Even tho it has a brand "x" motor, it looks really nice...
1970 F-100 SWB Tubbed
1971 F-350 4X4 (traded for 71 crewcab)
1971 F-250 Crew-Cab Dually
1972 F-100 SWB 4X4
1972 F-350 Crew-Cab 4X4 Dually
2001 F-350 Crew-Cab Short Bed 4X4 Dually
1971 F-350 4X4 (traded for 71 crewcab)
1971 F-250 Crew-Cab Dually
1972 F-100 SWB 4X4
1972 F-350 Crew-Cab 4X4 Dually
2001 F-350 Crew-Cab Short Bed 4X4 Dually
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Yeah, I still like the brand X motor. Thank you for the compliment though.Alstoyz wrote:Sean.
VERY SAWEET!!! Even tho it has a brand "x" motor, it looks really nice...
Yesterday was a little bit of a bust, but did manage to figure out a solution for that terrible stock steering wheel. I cannot really believe it but I settled on a Grant Classic wheel. I think it is fitting for the truck, the era and the stockish look I am going for.
Its brushed stainless center and foam rubber outer and I think it looks pretty good.
Also managed to finish up the heater hoses and heater control valve. I ended up using some DEI heat wrap on the 3/4" outlet from the water pump to the heater core as its really close to the crossover to the turbo, but it should be alright. Time will tell. Its all new even the metal factory ford Heater Control valve from Dennis Carpenter.
I also managed to get the TAC module mounted up under the dash button up the glovebox wiring, finish the starter wiring and run the brake switch wire over to the pedal area, just need to verify where it needs to land.
Today is more than likely Torque converter bolts, all fluids, shifter cable, and maybe swap out the third member if I have time and desire to lay under the truck for a few hours.
Oh and clean up the mess in the shop.
Sean
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Cleaned up the shop, it was a total mess. Got the truck up on jack stands and worked on the shifter. Got the shifter cable installed with the right brackets on the tranny and got it adjusted as per the manual.
Bolted up the converter, but not sure if I was supposed to use spacers between the flex plate and the converter as it was shipped with some washers. I cannot imagine that I should have installed those, but you never know.
I will email Chris at Circle D and find out if I need them in there or not.
Buttoned up the wiring and pretty much everything else. I ran out of **** to do on it other than putting fluids in it and firing it up.
Put it back on the ground, put the shifter in park and the truck still rolls. Messed around with the shifter a little bit and you can just barely hear a click click click when it is pushed in park.
I know that it is all mechanical in there but have to wonder if I should fire it up and see what happens or just pull the tranny now?
Anyone have any experience with this?
If this tranny needs to come out, it may just be the thing that stops my progress on this thing... I don't know if I have the energy and time right now to go backwards that much.
Sean
Bolted up the converter, but not sure if I was supposed to use spacers between the flex plate and the converter as it was shipped with some washers. I cannot imagine that I should have installed those, but you never know.
I will email Chris at Circle D and find out if I need them in there or not.
Buttoned up the wiring and pretty much everything else. I ran out of **** to do on it other than putting fluids in it and firing it up.
Put it back on the ground, put the shifter in park and the truck still rolls. Messed around with the shifter a little bit and you can just barely hear a click click click when it is pushed in park.
I know that it is all mechanical in there but have to wonder if I should fire it up and see what happens or just pull the tranny now?
Anyone have any experience with this?
If this tranny needs to come out, it may just be the thing that stops my progress on this thing... I don't know if I have the energy and time right now to go backwards that much.
Sean
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
No big fantastic picture update....
Pulled the pan off the tranny last night and found some weird hard brittle plastic chunks that almost look like pieces of old filter in the bottom of the pan. Now keep in mind that I had just recently put in a trans go HD2 shift kit in this and those pieces were not in there before. I believe that there was a small piece of something in the linkage for the parking pawl not letting it engage. I took the pawl apart cleaned everything and put it back in and it works exactly how it should now.
My buddy Chris was over about this time and we got to work. Primed the turbo, checked for drain, filled the tranny with fluid, put 5 quarts of 5/30 in the motor.
Then it was time to see how the electrical system was going to react. Installed both battery terminals and made a quick check for smoke or problems. I had most of the fuses out at this point for stuff. Turned on the disconnect switch and no smoke. Put in the main fuse for the truck wiring. Checked the parking, brake and headlights. They all worked.
Put the key in the ignition and turned it on, computer fires up ALDL light comes on.
Chris manned the ignition, while I climbed under the truck. I popped a fuse in for each pump he bumped the ignition and both fuel pumps fire up with the ignition.
Even the blower fan worked for the heating system.
I have done a lot of electrical but to get everything to work on the first try was pretty impressive for me.
We hit the key and bumped the starter and Ill be damned, it turned over.
So we went and grabbed some fuel and threw a couple gallons in the tank and began the priming process. Here is where I encountered problem number one. Those pumps primed almost immediately. However it did highlight rather fast the fact that I did not install a 1/8" plug in the y fitting in the fuel system and it covered me, my face, shirt and garage floor with fresh fuel. I got a plug and threw it in there. We primed the system and made sure we were getting fuel back to the tank. Those pumps flow a LOT of fuel together. No leaks so far.
So we gave it a go. Acts like the battery is dead when cranking, jump box on, no difference, charger on, no difference, pick up new battery, nope. I ran a jumper cable from the battery negative to the water pump and it was much better. Turns over and tried to fire up.
Sounds like something is wrong in the firing order. I am going to double check the wiring to and from the coil packs and make sure I have that all right, right coil to right cylinder and so fortth.
Also found that the fuel sender in the bottom of the tank is leaking so I need to pull that back out tonight and see whats up with it. I think its just the seal, hope its not something more major than that.
Few little things to fix still but a pretty rewarding night for me.
As always, thanks for the help Chris.
Sean
Pulled the pan off the tranny last night and found some weird hard brittle plastic chunks that almost look like pieces of old filter in the bottom of the pan. Now keep in mind that I had just recently put in a trans go HD2 shift kit in this and those pieces were not in there before. I believe that there was a small piece of something in the linkage for the parking pawl not letting it engage. I took the pawl apart cleaned everything and put it back in and it works exactly how it should now.
My buddy Chris was over about this time and we got to work. Primed the turbo, checked for drain, filled the tranny with fluid, put 5 quarts of 5/30 in the motor.
Then it was time to see how the electrical system was going to react. Installed both battery terminals and made a quick check for smoke or problems. I had most of the fuses out at this point for stuff. Turned on the disconnect switch and no smoke. Put in the main fuse for the truck wiring. Checked the parking, brake and headlights. They all worked.
Put the key in the ignition and turned it on, computer fires up ALDL light comes on.
Chris manned the ignition, while I climbed under the truck. I popped a fuse in for each pump he bumped the ignition and both fuel pumps fire up with the ignition.
Even the blower fan worked for the heating system.
I have done a lot of electrical but to get everything to work on the first try was pretty impressive for me.
We hit the key and bumped the starter and Ill be damned, it turned over.
So we went and grabbed some fuel and threw a couple gallons in the tank and began the priming process. Here is where I encountered problem number one. Those pumps primed almost immediately. However it did highlight rather fast the fact that I did not install a 1/8" plug in the y fitting in the fuel system and it covered me, my face, shirt and garage floor with fresh fuel. I got a plug and threw it in there. We primed the system and made sure we were getting fuel back to the tank. Those pumps flow a LOT of fuel together. No leaks so far.
So we gave it a go. Acts like the battery is dead when cranking, jump box on, no difference, charger on, no difference, pick up new battery, nope. I ran a jumper cable from the battery negative to the water pump and it was much better. Turns over and tried to fire up.
Sounds like something is wrong in the firing order. I am going to double check the wiring to and from the coil packs and make sure I have that all right, right coil to right cylinder and so fortth.
Also found that the fuel sender in the bottom of the tank is leaking so I need to pull that back out tonight and see whats up with it. I think its just the seal, hope its not something more major than that.
Few little things to fix still but a pretty rewarding night for me.
As always, thanks for the help Chris.
Sean
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
I ran a 1/0 guage wire directly from the negative battery terminal directly to the a/c bracket bosses on the side of the block. Cleaned off everything very well of paint and stuff.
I knew that something was not quite right with the firing order so I printed out the wiring diagram for the coil packs as that was the one thing I did not know if I had right, I suspected the 2-8 bank for some reason.
Sure enough I had the odd bank in the right order but had the even bank wired backwards so signal 8 went to cylinder 2 and 2 went to 8. All it took was swapping the plugs on the coils.
I was sure it was not going to fire so I just hopped in, turned the key and the damn thing fired right up. I mean right up like it was meant to be.
Video makes it sound much quieter than it is. In person its pretty damn loud with the open exhaust. Turbo makes some nice noises too.
I pulled the fuel level sender to find a leak in the return fitting so I am dealing with that.
Need to drain the tranny and reseal the pan too, it leaks like crazy, just at the pan gasket though.
Damn happy though.
Sean
http://youtu.be/woiwYhJfiaw
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/woiwYhJfiaw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I knew that something was not quite right with the firing order so I printed out the wiring diagram for the coil packs as that was the one thing I did not know if I had right, I suspected the 2-8 bank for some reason.
Sure enough I had the odd bank in the right order but had the even bank wired backwards so signal 8 went to cylinder 2 and 2 went to 8. All it took was swapping the plugs on the coils.
I was sure it was not going to fire so I just hopped in, turned the key and the damn thing fired right up. I mean right up like it was meant to be.
Video makes it sound much quieter than it is. In person its pretty damn loud with the open exhaust. Turbo makes some nice noises too.
I pulled the fuel level sender to find a leak in the return fitting so I am dealing with that.
Need to drain the tranny and reseal the pan too, it leaks like crazy, just at the pan gasket though.
Damn happy though.
Sean
http://youtu.be/woiwYhJfiaw
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/woiwYhJfiaw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
-
- New Member
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:34 pm
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Your truck is stunning. You do exceptional work.
- SATURN5
- New Member
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 1:08 pm
- Location: Kettering, Oh
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Be interesting to see the final numbers once it's shaken down and tuned... Looks great!
Bob
68 F100 Flareside, CVIFS, Cobra IRS, DOHC, M122, MS3, T45, 4.10, Cobra brakes
84 Mustang SVO, B234F, HE351, Full Cobra spec suspension and brakes including IRS, T-tops
96 Mark VIII, Complete chassis bracing, 03 Cobra wheels, Maruader converter, built trans.
68 F100 Flareside, CVIFS, Cobra IRS, DOHC, M122, MS3, T45, 4.10, Cobra brakes
84 Mustang SVO, B234F, HE351, Full Cobra spec suspension and brakes including IRS, T-tops
96 Mark VIII, Complete chassis bracing, 03 Cobra wheels, Maruader converter, built trans.
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 317
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:21 am
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Thanks for the kind words. I can't wait until my wheels and tires show up now. Should look killer with them.
As far as the numbers go for power, it should be in the high 600's or low 700's to the tires on fuel and Methanol Injection.
Sean
As far as the numbers go for power, it should be in the high 600's or low 700's to the tires on fuel and Methanol Injection.
Sean
- guhfluh
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 650
- Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 3:31 pm
- Location: Houma, LA
Re: Hackster's 1968 f100 CV Swap
Sweet! I actually like the wheels that are on it now:)
What's the whine from? What meth system are you planning?
What's the whine from? What meth system are you planning?
'67 F-250 Crew 2wd 300ci, T-170/RTS/TOD 4-speed overdrive
'96 Dodge Ram ECLB CTD
'99 Dodge Neon ACR 2dr - 10.64@130 (Sold)
'05 Infinity G35 Sedan
'96 Dodge Ram ECLB CTD
'99 Dodge Neon ACR 2dr - 10.64@130 (Sold)
'05 Infinity G35 Sedan