1970 F100 Project

[dantheman71]

Handy stand! Probably more solid than the 4 old tires I used

[Alstoyz]

[F100builder]

Handy stand! Probably more solid than the 4 old tires I used

Absolutely...and who says I haven't performed that same trick too?

[tdc]

Take a wild guess as to what I did today! I HATE this job! Thought about building a puller but I didn't feel like leaving the house to find all the hardware...I already have a chisel, punches, hammers, etc. Next time, I'm building the @#$% puller!!!

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Then, I replaced them with some new polyurethane bushings.

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Next up, is to trim up these brackets for the axle 'flip' and burn in some C-notches.

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i know you tackled this a while ago, but when i did all the suspension bushings on my bmw 2002 forever ago i figured out that using a torch to heat up the steel inside sleeve will cause the rubber bushing to kinda "poop out" the sleeve, then removing the mostly burnt bushing is as easy as ripping it out with a pair of pliers.

awesome project so far! i'm jealous!

[F100builder]

Thank you for the compliments!

To be safe, about the only heat you should use on spring steel is lighting the rubber on fire with a Bic lighter. I suppose that just lighting the rubbers up with a torch is fine too but you should never subject the spring to high heat. I opted to simply drill the rubber out and the inners pushed right out by hand (some fell right out). The major work was getting the outer shell out of the spring eye.

[dantheman71]

It's always handy to have some tires around!!

[F100builder]

Well, I got the cab onto its back to remove the cab mount that I knew was bad and decided I'd do both as they were both in similar condition. Plus, it's a chance to take a look underneath them to see the floor pans a little better. Unfortunately, I discovered a little more rust that had been 'fixed' during a previous restoration. You can see complete rust through indicated by the pink body filler. Luckily, it's still relatively minor compared to what I've seen many others take on with cabs in rougher shape. Also, the patches should be relatively easy as the areas are pretty much square and flat (patches will be roughly what is outlined in marker). I don't mind the work but I am really having my progress take a hit and I'm getting pretty anxious to get some primer and paint on at least the cab and doors before it gets too cold. Then, I can work on the wiring, sealing up the cab, and finishing up the interior.

[F100builder]

Since I'm going with a C6, I decided to also patch the clutch linkage hole in the toe board and I'll also be cutting out the transmission hump so I can install my extra C6 'hump' in my bump! Don't we all just LOVE sanding and a little metal work?

[sargentrs]

Great work Patrick! Keep it going.

[F100builder]

Great work Patrick! Keep it going.

Thanks Randy!

[SATURN5]

Looking good.... Always seems to be just one more thing to do....

[dantheman71]

Looks great. I know the trucks with a C6 usually had the big floor bump, but I'm sure there was somebody on here who said the C6 will fit under the little floor bump.....just can't remember where I saw that

[F100builder]

It does fit under the low hump but I'm going with a Lokar floor shifter and I'd rather have the removable panel and access to the top.

[F100builder]

Oh, and thanks guys!

Today I started in on the right floor repair. In the first pic, notice that there is something behind the rusted hole and behind the oval hole (usually has a rubber plug in it)...I started to think that there was another layer of steel so I began cutting. I found that someone had taken a piece of metal and simply placed it over the rusted out areas and welded it down in a few places with a stick welder as the beads were almost as big as a pencil! And that's not all...they then slathered on bondo like they were frosting a cake. It took me a while to blast all of the bondo off and actually find the edges of the 'patch'. Then I had to cut all of the fat welds to release the panel from the floor.

I used a scrap piece from my old cab mount that had a single rib to patch where the original rib had rusted away. I then used two more flat patches to fill in around this. I got a little more wire brushing done too. I don't know if I want to use a bit of filler to hide my stitches or just undercoat the bottom but I'm down to one more smaller and easier patch for the left side and getting very close to primer time at least for the bottom!

[F100builder]

I managed to sneak out into the garage for an hour at a time a couple times this week and got the right side all finished with a new mount.









On to the next one!