Door speakers

[guhfluh]

I'm adding to this link with a few pics that might help others looking for door wiring solutions.

I didn't install speakers in my doors, but I did install electric windows and auto door locks that also connect to my alarm key fob. I did a lot of research, measurements and layout options to get the best solution for my needs. In the Nu-Relics power window kit for my 1969 F100 Flareside, they included two S Boot rubber conduits that worked perfectly.

With the S Boot, I like that the wiring is fixed in place and does not have any movement that might wear on the wire insulation and it is fully contained where it is running between the door and the A pillar. Nu-Relics does sell the S Boot conduit seperately, as others have mentioned in this Forum. https://www.nu-relics.com/S-Boots-p/9835.htm

S Boot from Nu-Relics


I used a step bit to drill the holes for the S Boot, one in the door and one in the A Pillar.


Cleaned the burrs on the holes and installed the door side of the S Boot conduit




Bundled the wires, used a little grease and pulled them from the A Pillar side, through the S Boot and into the door (pic is from driver side)


Wiring coming out of S Boot conduit inside of door


Finished Install of S Boot conduit


The installation fit my needs - no wire movement (sliding in and out), no exposed wires and clean looking install.

Awesome, thank you for the post!

Those conduits are exactly like what I ended up using, but I got mine from my local stereo shop and I think mine may have been some ebay brand and were too short. Those Nurelics seem like they are longer, while the ebay ones are 4" and the Nurelics are 5-7" they say, and the Nurelics seem like they may be of a better material as they say they are EDPM. Mine only lasted a few years and now they are cracking and dry rotted.

Those conduits from Nurelic sure are expensive though The $27+ for shipping for a $17.99 part just seems excessive.

[CreigN]

My S Boots came with my Nu-Relics power windows kit. I saw that Nu-Relics sold them separately, but didn't realize the high shipping cost.

I did find this from a quick Google search (s boot conduit) that might have a better offer.
https://www.jamcosuspension.com/product ... ot-nrb9835
- The boot “relaxed” length is 5-1/2” “stretched out” 7-1/2”
- Drill 7/8” holes for grommets

Another option might be to look at "Z" Style Power Window Door Jamb Wiring Boot Accordion Style. But I think these are a little shorter at 4" vs 5"-7" that I used.

[BOSSGUY]

I realize this thread is kind of old but I didn't want to cut up my doors so I used Modshop Metalwerks mounting panels for the B pillar. He offers laser cut panels for round or oval speakers. I wanted to soundproof / insulate the cab after the Vintage Air installation so I rolled up a length of the aluminum faced bubble wrap almost the height of the B pillar and stuffed it up as high as I could, unrolled the insulation to cover as much area inside the pillar I didn't want water / condensation to accumulate at the bottom of the pillar so I made sure the drain were clear. I had some of the dense black foam that protects auto glass in shipping and I installed that below the speaker area but not all the way to the bottom to allow for water drainage. On e-bay I purchased speaker water / dust shields behind the speakers I think they were about 5 or 6 bucks each, they also direct energy back thru the speaker instead of out the back. The Modshop panels fit right in. On the panel below the rear window there are 4- 12 x 12 embossed rectangles. Eastwoods Xtreme butyl 12 x 12 sound deadner fit perfectly in there. I rolled the aluminum faced babble wrap across the width of the back panel after spraying it with adhesive and held down on the ends with the Modshop panels. It went from a "before" sound of a empty metal drum to a "after" that sounds like smacking a tree trunk. I'm very happy with the results and the sound from the speakers.

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