Having problems getting my truck running right( or at all).rebuilt my stock carb but soaked it in degreaser for 24 hours which seemed to clean most of the grime off but left black residue all over it. I tried my friends ultra sonic tank( whish i new he had it before I used degreaser) and it didn't help much. I could probably get it off if I wanted to diss assemble the hole thing again and painstakingly scrub the hole thing which I really don't want to do( I did check that all the airways were clear with spraying carb clean though them). also my idle mixture screws were a little ruff looking. anyway put it back together hoping it would work but I cant get it to run properly. it will barley idle and generally dies when I give it gas. I can adjust the mixture screws but don't see much happen( I thought it should be more instant) though I did get it to accept some throttle input but there was the odd backfire(with some throttle blips) and after a few mins of warming up it would die with any throttle touch. I don't have the choke set up as its the thermal one hooked into the manifold and I haven't finished trying to hook it up with a universal doorman kit I got( I assume that shouldn't matter). Anyway I have sprayed carb cleaner around with it idling and haven't noticed any change indicating a sealing problem or bad vacuum line. was looking around for a reman carb but all my local parts stores that has part numbers say there supplies are out of stock across the country(not surprising with a 50 year old carb). was thinking of getting a holley 2 barrel as I can buy a brand new 350 cfm which would match the 350 cfm autolite I have now. Anyway enough babbling any thoughts would be appreciated or experience with the holley( is it good/worth it).
Thanks
truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
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truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
1970 f-100 360 c-6 2wd ps/pb longbox
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
You have to at least have the choke plate hard wired open or the truck may not start, (until you get it hooked up) to start with.=sharkdog post
Having problems getting my truck running right( or at all).rebuilt my stock carb but soaked it in degreaser for 24 hours which seemed to clean most of the grime off but left black residue all over it. I tried my friends ultra sonic tank( whish i new he had it before I used degreaser) and it didn't help much. I could probably get it off if I wanted to diss assemble the hole thing again and painstakingly scrub the hole thing which I really don't want to do( I did check that all the airways were clear with spraying carb clean though them). also my idle mixture screws were a little ruff looking. anyway put it back together hoping it would work but I cant get it to run properly. it will barley idle and generally dies when I give it gas. I can adjust the mixture screws but don't see much happen( I thought it should be more instant) though I did get it to accept some throttle input but there was the odd backfire(with some throttle blips) and after a few mins of warming up it would die with any throttle touch. I don't have the choke set up as its the thermal one hooked into the manifold and I haven't finished trying to hook it up with a universal doorman kit I got( I assume that shouldn't matter). Anyway I have sprayed carb cleaner around with it idling and haven't noticed any change indicating a sealing problem or bad vacuum line. was looking around for a reman carb but all my local parts stores that has part numbers say there supplies are out of stock across the country(not surprising with a 50 year old carb). was thinking of getting a holley 2 barrel as I can buy a brand new 350 cfm which would match the 350 cfm autolite I have now. Anyway enough babbling any thoughts would be appreciated or experience with the holley( is it good/worth it).
Thanks
Did the spring on the needle seat go back in ok, (almost sounds like the needle valve isn't opening) OR CAN YOU SMELL A FLOODING CONDITION?
Just my but you can't give me a Holley carb after one almost burning my vehicle to the ground once, (long story).
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
With it not running , look down inside the carb and work the lever . You should see two strong streams of gas .
If not you need an accelerator pump. a simple fix.
How did it run Before you "rebuilt" it ?. Did you buy a kit with new gaskets?
Did you put new base gaskets on if so make sure it seals around the pvc port in the base.
If not you need an accelerator pump. a simple fix.
How did it run Before you "rebuilt" it ?. Did you buy a kit with new gaskets?
Did you put new base gaskets on if so make sure it seals around the pvc port in the base.
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
My truck ran fine tell I ran the tank more or less dry cause the gauges arnt working and forgot how thirsty a 360 is even just idling. Then I put gas in changed the fuel
Filter twice actually cause it still wasn’t running right so I ripped the carb off and rebuilt it as explained above. After which I then found no spark and found my points and condenser to be worn which I replaced. Now I’m at this point. Mentioned above
Thanks pete
Filter twice actually cause it still wasn’t running right so I ripped the carb off and rebuilt it as explained above. After which I then found no spark and found my points and condenser to be worn which I replaced. Now I’m at this point. Mentioned above
Thanks pete
1970 f-100 360 c-6 2wd ps/pb longbox
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
It might be worth trying another condenser. I was having similar issues and did much of the same stuff you did (new fuel filters, carb clean, etc.). Once I finally started poking around at the ignition, I went through two new condensers from the parts store before I got a good one
1970 F100 Ranger XLT 390 3 speed
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
Ahh , the rest of the story.
Changing points changers the dwell , which changes the timing.
And I second the thought that it could be a bad new condenser .
some times you're better off with the old one , than a new one from the land of "almost right".
Changing points changers the dwell , which changes the timing.
And I second the thought that it could be a bad new condenser .
some times you're better off with the old one , than a new one from the land of "almost right".
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
Thanks for the suggestions I will be working on my truck later today and will go find my old condenser and give it a whirl. thanks for all the suggestions and I will report back
1970 f-100 360 c-6 2wd ps/pb longbox
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Re: truck not running carb issues/Holley 2bbl carbs - thoughts
Also check the voltage at the coil. There's a resistor wire in the run mode . That can go bad and act strange.
You have full voltage in start mode , then it drops the voltage to save the points.
When the resistor goes bad it can run sometimes , but poorly.
You have full voltage in start mode , then it drops the voltage to save the points.
When the resistor goes bad it can run sometimes , but poorly.