Need Help -Start Truck with No Key

[socalcraigster]

Hi all.

I have a 68 RV (see short video) that does not have a key or the cylinder.

https://youtu.be/NNO86CBXOss

To bypass the ignition, I ran a wire from positive on the ignition coil to the positive battery.

The truck is filled with gas. I add some gas to carb and starts and then dies. I suspect a deficient fuel pump as well. There is spark getting to distributor cap.

Question - Is there a better way to hot wire truck? Is the way I’m doing it okay?

[sargentrs]

Sure, it's fine. I would recommend buying a remote starter switch instead of jumping across the solenoid with a screwdriver. I had an electrical issue with a '74 Dodge Dart. Wired up a toggle switch for the ignition and a momentary push button switch for the starter. Drilled 2 holes under the dash and mounted them. Drove it like that for 6 months til I sorted out the electrical problem.

[MadMike]

I have a 68 RV (see short video) that does not have a key or the cylinder.

Check your serial number('VIN') on your truck, there was a changeover so there are slight differences in the connector.
You can purchase the Motorcraft brand switch from Rockauto.com for ~$30(electrical switch-relay). Key cylinder part(ignition) is ~$15.
That is if the factory connector is still present, otherwise you may want to look into an alternative setup.
Usually the Motorcraft switches come with a replacement pigtail in-case the original connector is damaged/missing.

To bypass the ignition, I ran a wire from positive on the ignition coil to the positive battery.

This will work for short running periods, but if your truck is still using points you will need to use a ballast resistor between the positive of the coil and battery or you will burn up the points in the distributor.
Check out the wiring diagrams/schematics for the F250/F350 in the 'diagrams and schematics' forum/sticky.

I suspect a deficient fuel pump as well.

Depending on how long the truck sat.
Newer ethanol fuels will destroy older diaphragms and seals. The F250 I was working on hadn't been touched in about ~20years It ran fine at first but everything that was in contact with fuel started to break down. Rubber fuel lines started to internally come apart and then leak, carb seals started to leak and turn to goo, and eventually the fuel pump diaphragm itself failed.
If you plan on keeping the truck, rebuild the carb, replace the fuel pump, replace the rubber fuel lines, and temporarily install a filter before the pump, this will collect any junk from the fuel tank. Don't fight it, just replace all those components and be done with it.

Question - Is there a better way to hot wire truck? Is the way I’m doing it okay?

Wiring harness on these trucks is very simple, it would be best to install the factory switch/cylinder as most switched items are run through the ignition switch. That includes the alternator excite circuit. Battery won't last long if the alternator isn't charging. Also the ballast resistor for the points is actually a resistance wire that is in the dash wiring. Cost of getting the switch alone would be well worth not having to deal with rewiring everything.
I know on campers there can often be lots of added wiring that may not be properly done correctly. Especially if there was some 'house' wiring and a secondary battery added, watch out for any questionable or unknown wires.

[socalcraigster]

So my vin ends in 57295. Is that the number I use to figure out which part?

Thank you.

[sargentrs]

Nope. That's just the the sequential serial number, the 57,295th truck built in that series. Decide the rest of your VIN here. http://www.fordification.com/tech/VIN68.htm