Saw this bolted next to my regulator. I found some people saying that it is a Radio Noise Capacitor. I don’t plan on using my radio I’m putting a double din CarPlay module in my truck anyway. Do I still need one or should I just keep this bolted on anyway? It seems like it’s spliced into a yellow wire that goes to my Voltage Regulator.
Also my S wire (green) on my Voltage Regulator doesn’t seem to be plugged into anything. It was just tucked into the rest of the zip tied wires. Any idea? People said it needs to go on the Stator side of Alternator (no idea what this is yet) and Electric choke?
Thanks,
I'd leave the capacitor right where it is. The S wire goes to the stator terminal only if you have an idiot light as opposed to the ammeter. In other words the ammeter equipped trucks don't use this wire.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Ditch the cap if you have upgraded the ignition system only. It's main purpose was to silence the noise inherit with our points style ignition. It was common to hear the points "clicking" noise in the radio, (especially when we had only AM stations) if/when the condenser went bad.
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
basketcase0302 wrote:Ditch the cap if you have upgraded the ignition system only. It's main purpose was to silence the noise inherit with our points style ignition. It was common to hear the points "clicking" noise in the radio, (especially when we had only AM stations) if/when the condenser went bad.
Busboy wrote:I'd leave the capacitor right where it is. The S wire goes to the stator terminal only if you have an idiot light as opposed to the ammeter. In other words the ammeter equipped trucks don't use this wire.
Took it out for now to see if anything different happens. Will put it back on if I notice anything weird in the radio/audio system.
Rewiring the entire damn truck now haha. One thing just kept leading to another and now all the ugly electrical tape is off and I'm ripping apart ugly cut wires. Hopefully I'll be able to put it back together, but all those wires to the terrible old fuse box are worrying me. I don't like the split diagrams I am finding on the website. Can't find a specific diagram for the entire fuse box together. Bought a new fuse box so as long as I can run the ACC power correctly I should be fine.
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
Your attacking the most common and hardest part of keeping our bumps on the road, (as increased electrical loads added onto the trucks through the years pushed the existing wiring size to it's limit).
I'd gone as far on my old early Bronco as to replace the terminals on my existing fuseblock by finding another harness with good terminals, (same size wire to each circuit) and solder the "new to me" terminals onto my existing wiring, (my fuse terminals had been "overtaxed" being my weak point in that wiring harness).
Did you find the wiring diagrams here for your truck?
Here's an image of the fuseblock that might help?
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
basketcase0302 wrote:Your attacking the most common and hardest part of keeping our bumps on the road, (as increased electrical loads added onto the trucks through the years pushed the existing wiring size to it's limit).
I'd gone as far on my old early Bronco as to replace the terminals on my existing fuseblock by finding another harness with good terminals, (same size wire to each circuit) and solder the "new to me" terminals onto my existing wiring, (my fuse terminals had been "overtaxed" being my weak point in that wiring harness).
Did you find the wiring diagrams here for your truck?
Here's an image of the fuseblock that might help?
Yeah saw this which it showed all the wires from the different components going in. As I go I'm replacing everything I am kinda updating with 14 awg wire. Adding a new fuse box. After looking at this fuse box its confusing me so I think I just have to trace the wires to the diff lights/heater etc and wire them into a new fuse box. New wiring harnesses for the F100 are stupid expensive so I just bought 12 different color 14 awg wires and started re-wiring everything that I can. Added some 10 gauge from the new fuse box put in a 100 amp breaker and I'm keeping all my speakers/amp running off of a new 8 gauge wire.
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
