302 with 351 firing order???? why?

[Ranchero50]

'69 Heads should have the 3/8" full threaded studs, not the shouldered studs like the newer stuff. You want to make sure the side guides that go over the valve tip don't contact the spring plate or the retainers. You can mock the whole thing up with some light duty springs and roll it around checking for binding before doing the final assembly. Basically check how much extra movement you have a max opening to make sure the pivot isn't binding. Shouldn't be an issue on a street cam. Kind of the same deal with the studs. They shouldn't pull out unless you are running mongo spring pressures or a binding spring combo.

[BayStYAt]

'69 Heads should have the 3/8" full threaded studs, not the shouldered studs like the newer stuff. You want to make sure the side guides that go over the valve tip don't contact the spring plate or the retainers. You can mock the whole thing up with some light duty springs and roll it around checking for binding before doing the final assembly. Basically check how much extra movement you have a max opening to make sure the pivot isn't binding. Shouldn't be an issue on a street cam. Kind of the same deal with the studs. They shouldn't pull out unless you are running mongo spring pressures or a binding spring combo.

Ok, Ranch i got the K kit. The new springs are medium duty. I went with the Comp 270H cam. The springs have a half spring inside the main spring.

[BayStYAt]

are the stock connecting rods directional?

Thanks everyone

[Ranchero50]

Not sure. I want to say the numbers should be on the outside. The pistons must be installed with the arrows facing forward.

[Jacksdad]

If you're not in a rush and the heads aren't on yet, you might want to consider a switch to GT40P heads. They typically spec out at about 59cc, so it won't be any worse than the heads you have now (and possibly better with respect to your compression). They flow more than any Windsor-style factory iron head, come with hardened valve seats and a very efficient combustion chamber - oh, and there are a crapload in junk yards sitting in mid-1997 to 2001 Explorers and Mountaineers. They can be had really cheap and have the right size head bolt holes, and low mileage ones will probably need nothing more than freshening with new seals and springs. The stock springs are crappy and float easily, and should definitely be tossed at the first opportunity if you're going to rev this thing. TFS and Alex's Parts both sell drop in kits for about $200, so you should budget for that. GT40P heads outperform even the early 351W castings, and are good for 30hp over smog (E7) heads. I'm building a 351W for my F350, and just pulled a pair off a '98 Mountaineer with 160k miles for a little over $100 - cheap hp. This would be a great time to track some down and throw them on your motor. They'll probably compliment that Weiand intake nicely. And header choice is better than people think, so don't let that be a deal breaker.

I used similar Federal Mogul pistons in another motor, and the compression ratio isn't great because of the four valve reliefs - although I think you'll still pick up some compression over the stock dished pistons. After I'd finished bolting everything together, I read that my "9:1" pistons might be closer to 8:1, so I popped the heads. After I did the math, it was indeed just over 8:1 - a couple of hundred dollars for a 0.3 improvement over stock. Awesome. It was cheaper to just tear it all the way down at that point and have it decked than switch the pistons again, and it actually worked to my advantage as it turned out the compression height was actually off from bank to bank. I had the machine shop take a little off the decks to pick up some compression and quench, with one bank cut a little more to get them at the same height. I'm at about 9.0:1 now.

Good luck with the build - cool thread

[BayStYAt]

If you're not in a rush and the heads aren't on yet, you might want to consider a switch to GT40P heads. They typically spec out at about 59cc, so it won't be any worse than the heads you have now (and possibly better with respect to your compression). They flow more than any Windsor-style factory iron head, come with hardened valve seats and a very efficient combustion chamber - oh, and there are a crapload in junk yards sitting in mid-1997 to 2001 Explorers and Mountaineers. They can be had really cheap and have the right size head bolt holes, and low mileage ones will probably need nothing more than freshening with new seals and springs. The stock springs are crappy and float easily, and should definitely be tossed at the first opportunity if you're going to rev this thing. TFS and Alex's Parts both sell drop in kits for about $200, so you should budget for that. GT40P heads outperform even the early 351W castings, and are good for 30hp over smog (E7) heads. I'm building a 351W for my F350, and just pulled a pair off a '98 Mountaineer with 160k miles for a little over $100 - cheap hp. This would be a great time to track some down and throw them on your motor. They'll probably compliment that Weiand intake nicely. And header choice is better than people think, so don't let that be a deal breaker.

I used similar Federal Mogul pistons in another motor, and the compression ratio isn't great because of the four valve reliefs - although I think you'll still pick up some compression over the stock dished pistons. After I'd finished bolting everything together, I read that my "9:1" pistons might be closer to 8:1, so I popped the heads. After I did the math, it was indeed just over 8:1 - a couple of hundred dollars for a 0.3 improvement over stock. Awesome. It was cheaper to just tear it all the way down at that point and have it decked than switch the pistons again, and it actually worked to my advantage as it turned out the compression height was actually off from bank to bank. I had the machine shop take a little off the decks to pick up some compression and quench, with one bank cut a little more to get them at the same height. I'm at about 9.0:1 now.

Good luck with the build - cool thread

great info. Thank you sir.

I rebuilt my heads with the 270H cam k kit. I didn't put hardly any $$ in them. I Like this idea. I am gonna try and track some down. I just got the block back yesterday. .20 over, new cam bearings, decked and crank polished. I plan on painting it tomorrow. I am gonna install my heads for now. I would like to find a pair, take my time and port them myself.

[BayStYAt]

re finished engine bay



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can someone tell me what I am missing? this is the bottom end of the steering shaft. the engine bay side

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[71cc]

Someone makes a bearing to replace the plastic one. Mine looked like that from bad cab mounts putting it in a bind.

[DuckRyder]

Nice. Looks good.

[Jacksdad]

The other option is GT40 heads, although they're down on compression and flow compared to the "P" heads. They came on the first gen F150 Lightnings and 1993 Cobra Mustangs, as well as 1996 to mid 1997 Explorers/Mountaineers. I believe the Cobra heads were milled from the factory for more compression, but the later GT40P heads are much easier to find and came with a smaller chamber and better ports anyway. "P" heads can be identified by four bars cast into the end of the castings (GT40 heads had three bars). Great heads that should get you past 300hp with the parts you already have. Header clearance can be a challenge because of the revised plug angles, but you can get around it much of the time with 90 degree wires and maybe heatproof sleeves.
My latest build is for my F350 dually, and it's a non-roller 351W short block. The GT40P heads should give me about half a point of compression over the E7 smog heads that came on it, so I should be at about 9.3:1 with the stock pistons. Not going nuts with this one as I'm on a serious budget, and I need it to be a truck motor. Dual plane intake/600cfm vacuum secondary Holley, Lunati Voodoo cam, BBK unequal length headers, and GT40P heads should give me lots of off-idle torque and still surprise a few people at stoplights. I picked up an Edelbrock Performer, but I'm considering keeping it for another build and getting a Weiand Stealth instead.

[Ranchero50]

Can someone tell me what I am missing? this is the bottom end of the steering shaft. the engine bay side

Honestly nothing. Ford used to put a bushing there but once the cab mounts sagged they bound up the steering so the later trucks just have a plastic plug. Once everything is back in place adjust the column height where it bolts to the firewall so the shaft is centered in the bore. The concentricity becomes more critical if you have an auto or (gasp), a 3 on the tree setup

[BayStYAt]

can the head bolts and main bolts be reused?

[Ranchero50]

Yes

[BayStYAt]

Thanks Ranch,

well my rear 2 piece rear main seal is to long. So, now I wait for a new one

[Ranchero50]

No, you use a razor blade and cut off the excess. Seat both pieces fully using screwdriver handle and cut them off @ 1/16" above flush (long). Then you rotate them in the groove, I think you want 1/4" sticking out on one side and 1/4" sticking in on the other so the break in the seal doesn't line up with the block to cap separation line. Should be a ton of stuff on Google describing it better.