302 with 351 firing order???? why?

[BayStYAt]

Ok, I am gonna get new pistons. Use my rods. Get the block honed just to be safe.

Bandit, are you referring to the Thumper?

I am looking at getting the correct rebuild kit with pistons on Sumitt . Please steer me in the right direction in choosing the correct piston for the correct compression. It only show compression with 54cc heads. I have 60cc heads.

[DuckRyder]

Slow down a second.

I covered the pistons with links in the case of the forged one that shows the CR with various cc heads. I haven’t been able to find the same chart for the Hyper piston. (i’m also skeptical that summits numbers are right on it)

Bandit is talking about the link bar lifters that I mentioned that you would have to use for the E303 cam that you mentioned.

I’ve got concerns about the CC on the heads, this is going to make a big difference. Do you have access to anything that is graduated in CC?

[BayStYAt]

Slow down a second.

I covered the pistons with links in the case of the forged one that shows the CR with various cc heads. I haven’t been able to find the same chart for the Hyper piston. (i’m also skeptical that summits numbers are right on it)

Bandit is talking about the link bar lifters that I mentioned that you would have to use for the E303 cam that you mentioned.

I’ve got concerns about the CC on the heads, this is going to make a big difference. Do you have access to anything that is graduated in CC?

Duck, please elaborate on what I need to do on the graduated CC. Im lost

[BayStYAt]

The rods should be numbered, at least they were on the ones I've played with throughout the years. The problem you'll have doing a 1/2 rebuild is any slop / looseness in the bore will allow the pistons to wobble which will affect ring seal. Your bores should have a faint crosshatch in the walls, 30ish degrees if memory serves. If they are marked and some parts aren't, that's the problem. If your heads are in good shape then hopefully the bottom end is too. '73 parts, '69 heads may have been original from the parts shelves for a while but I doubt it four years later. The umbrella seals are a weak link, change them if they aren't completely soft. If I were to spend any money it would be to get the stand machined for late model valve seals. The umbrella's fail and let the valves pump oil into the intake path.

Sounds like you lost cam timing if the nylon covering on the cam sprocket fall apart. Achilles heel of the small block Fords, makes them run like turds. Install a true double roller timing chain and do not skimp on this one part. Try to get one with an multi keyed crank sprocket and install it advanced. All chains wear way too quickly retarding the timing and killing torque which a 302 / truck combo needs.

$100 for a polish, you can do it yourself for a couple bucks and some 320 or finer grit emery paper. Usually I don't bother them too much other than scuff any disassembly dings. You will want a high volume oil pump. Don't need or really want a high pressure one since they are so hard on the cam to dizzy gearset. Pick up a larger oil pump drive shaft too. It's cheap insurance but make sure the dizzy fits with it (BTDT, PITA after it's all together and in the vehicle)

Rod fitment is OK, only resize if you put new bolts in or see a sign of serious impact / heat damage on one, then replace.

I would also get some total seal gapless 2nd compression rings. They have been well worth the extra money over the years just by less blowby.

I'd also go find a truck timing cover. Just be aware that the late model stuff doesn't have the fuel pump boss and some of them had different ports for serpentine belting water pumps (EFI trucks versus cars, another PITA)...

ranch, how do I polish the crank myself?

[DuckRyder]

Slow down a second.

I covered the pistons with links in the case of the forged one that shows the CR with various cc heads. I haven’t been able to find the same chart for the Hyper piston. (i’m also skeptical that summits numbers are right on it)

Bandit is talking about the link bar lifters that I mentioned that you would have to use for the E303 cam that you mentioned.

I’ve got concerns about the CC on the heads, this is going to make a big difference. Do you have access to anything that is graduated in CC?

Duck, please elaborate on what I need to do on the graduated CC. Im lost

What I would suggest is that you attempt to CC the heads. I don’t think it is necessary to get extremely precise or elaborate (you can buy a CC kit on Summit) but just use something that is graduated in CC to fill the combustion chamber with oil and make sure it holds about 60cc.

Those heads with those pistons (the original ones) don’t really make sense to me, since what I can find about MerCruiser 225 (and 188 the 2v version) suggest that the heads and pistons are stock I’m wondering what is up. Also you probably should try to measure the deck surface for any warpage, because if the heads or block needs to be decked this will raise compression as well.

Ultimately if they are around 60CC I would run the L2482F Forged Speed Pro for about 9.4:1.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem- ... /overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2482f/overview/

https://static.summitracing.com/global/ ... l2165f.pdf

[BayStYAt]

Slow down a second.

I covered the pistons with links in the case of the forged one that shows the CR with various cc heads. I haven’t been able to find the same chart for the Hyper piston. (i’m also skeptical that summits numbers are right on it)

Bandit is talking about the link bar lifters that I mentioned that you would have to use for the E303 cam that you mentioned.

I’ve got concerns about the CC on the heads, this is going to make a big difference. Do you have access to anything that is graduated in CC?

Duck, please elaborate on what I need to do on the graduated CC. Im lost

What I would suggest is that you attempt to CC the heads. I don’t think it is necessary to get extremely precise or elaborate (you can buy a CC kit on Summit) but just use something that is graduated in CC to fill the combustion chamber with oil and make sure it holds about 60cc.

Those heads with those pistons (the original ones) don’t really make sense to me, since what I can find about MerCruiser 225 (and 188 the 2v version) suggest that the heads and pistons are stock I’m wondering what is up. Also you probably should try to measure the deck surface for any warpage, because if the heads or block needs to be decked this will raise compression as well.

Ultimately if they are around 60CC I would run the L2482F Forged Speed Pro for about 9.4:1.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem- ... /overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2482f/overview/

https://static.summitracing.com/global/ ... l2165f.pdf

Ok makes sense. I would bet the 351 heads on the 302 block is not how the motor was originally built. I am sure at some point someone put the 351w heads on.

[DuckRyder]

IIRC from a couple days ago, those were the heads Mercury Marine used.

What size are the head bolt holes?

[DuckRyder]

OK, it seems like pretty much all early 351 heads are 60.4cc, so it is unlikely that they are far off of that. I personally would still try to check them if you can do so with out a great deal of effort.

The Forged pistons with the Thumpr cam are going to put your dynamic compression in the very high 7's. This should work fine and it won't kill you if decking the block or heads changes it a little bit up.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem- ... /overview/

The Hyper pistons in the original engine kit you linked are going to are going to drop it into the low 7's, this is too low IMO, I would not do that.

[BayStYAt]

OK, it seems like pretty much all early 351 heads are 60.4cc, so it is unlikely that they are far off of that. I personally would still try to check them if you can do so with out a great deal of effort.

The Forged pistons with the Thumpr cam are going to put your dynamic compression in the very high 7's. This should work fine and it won't kill you if decking the block or heads changes it a little bit up.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem- ... /overview/

The Hyper pistons in the original engine kit you linked are going to are going to drop it into the low 7's, this is too low IMO, I would not do that.

awesome thank you, ok great news. So, I need a rebuild kit with out pistons, get the pistons you linked. Do you think the rings that come in the kit will fit those pistons you linked? Or do I get specific rings for those pistons?

[DuckRyder]

Unless I messed up the link that link should have the pistons in it. Click on the "Kit Contents" tab.

BTW, i picked "STD" on everthing for the link, so if you have to have it bores or crank ground ect you'll need to change that.

Did you ever say how much of a ridge it had, or if you could see cross hatch in the cylinder walls?

[BayStYAt]

Unless I messed up the link that link should have the pistons in it. Click on the "Kit Contents" tab.

BTW, i picked "STD" on everthing for the link, so if you have to have it bores or crank ground ect you'll need to change that.

Did you ever say how much of a ridge it had, or if you could see cross hatch in the cylinder walls?

Ahh, i see now. Perfect and thank you.

As for the block, I am gonna have it looked at. If it needs work I will choose the correct kit. I do feel a slight lip. Cross hatch is there but very light

[BayStYAt]

Ok, I checked with the machine shop.

Block decked, punched, freeze plugs, new cam bearings. $500

if no need for decking or punching $250

additinal- remove pistons and replace on rods $8 per piston

is this a good price?

[DuckRyder]

It has been quite a while since I’ve priced that kind of work, but it doesn’t sound out of line for properly done work.

[BayStYAt]

I think I am gonna go with this kit instead.

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... gory_Code=

[BayStYAt]

I think I am gonna go with this kit instead. I listened to some 302 on youtube and its a great street kit

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... gory_Code=