Anyone have any good ideas on the order of go for installing the windows, new felts, (inside and out), and vents window and runner?
I did it to my driver side door late last week, and went in this order, and it wasn't that smooth.... I nicked my new paint in a spot against the door jam, and the interior anti rattler was very difficult to get in.
1. Vertical Window Runner and Vent Window Assembly, into the door and mounted with the door jam screws and the interior door screw, and the bottom screw, that hold the runner.
2. Window Rubber that goes on the door vertical and horizontal
3. Window Rubber that goes on the vertical window runner
4. Main Window, through the top of door... (on the the lift arm)
5. Exterior Anti Rattler
6. At this point I realized there is not anywhere near enough clearance to install the interior anti-rattler, with the window installed, and no way of getting the newly installed exterior anti-rattler off (in order to remove the window through the top) without severely damaging my brand new paintjob...
So, I pulled the window crank assembly bolts, in an attempt to drop the window below the threshold of the window opening, hoping to get clearance, with the window inside the door, but no longer on the runner... If you didn't know, already (I did not), these window crank assemblies, are like a bear trap when unbolted.. There is a spring under pretty serious tension, and are very difficult to handle without a third hand or a good friend willing to risk a finger or two.
Then with the window below the threshold, I was able to install the interior anti rattler, and then had to manhandle the bear trap back into position, and install the window, back on the lift arm...
My question is, is there any easier way, for the other window that might save my body guy from having to do more touchups? I'm thinking maybe stick the window in the door, off the crank, and then install the vent window assembly and runner, then both anti rattlers, and then deal with the bear trap, and reattaching the window to the lift arm...
Looking for anyone who is done it more than just one time, (less) unsuccessfully, than I just experienced.
Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
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- sargentrs
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
I haven't actually done it but did you read this? http://www.fordification.com/tech/doors01.htm Installation should be the reverse of removal.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
I did the removal, in this order.. But the installation (when you care about the paint, now) is much trickier...
- Bullitt74
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
I had to ask my brother about this tonight, as I'm facing the same thing fairly soon with my build. He took my doors apart when we disassembled my truck, and he had his doors apart on his bump a zillion times when he painted it twice, and installed power windows on another occasion. He never ever took fuzzies (anti-rattlers) out, not even to replace them.vossy wrote:I did the removal, in this order.. But the installation (when you care about the paint, now) is much trickier...
He says with absolute certainty that glass can come in and out with the fuzzies installed/intact by rotating the window 90 degrees...rotate the window so that its bottom is at the front of the door, and once it is in the door, rotate it back into place along the channel. Fuzzies, then glass, then vent window. I imagine the rubber door runs go on first before the fuzzies.
Hope this helps!
Steve F.
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
'72 Ranger XLT, 4x2, 390-2V, C6, Wind blue & Wimbledon White (‘Smokey’)
2016 F150 Lariat FX4 Supercrew, Ruby Red
Follow my build thread for 'Smokey': http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... 22&t=85070
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
'72 Ranger XLT, 4x2, 390-2V, C6, Wind blue & Wimbledon White (‘Smokey’)
2016 F150 Lariat FX4 Supercrew, Ruby Red
Follow my build thread for 'Smokey': http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... 22&t=85070
- cdnwillyg
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
Wow I just did this all in the last couple months and am having a hard time remembering...age thing. But this is what I recall.
I installed the vent windows first, screwed into place. Then dropped in the window which was still on the track that's on the bottom. If the anti rattle fuzzies are in I don't think the window can be installed with this track on? I then installed the window guide track rubber, slid window into track. Installed anti rattle fuzzies, then put in the regulator and connected to window raising it up past the anti rattles, then bolted the regulator in place. Hope this helps!
I installed the vent windows first, screwed into place. Then dropped in the window which was still on the track that's on the bottom. If the anti rattle fuzzies are in I don't think the window can be installed with this track on? I then installed the window guide track rubber, slid window into track. Installed anti rattle fuzzies, then put in the regulator and connected to window raising it up past the anti rattles, then bolted the regulator in place. Hope this helps!
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:drive:Willy
FE-390,570CFM 4bbl, C6 Automatic, PS, PB front disk.
Stony Plain, Alberta, Canada
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
Bullitt74 wrote:I had to ask my brother about this tonight, as I'm facing the same thing fairly soon with my build. He took my doors apart when we disassembled my truck, and he had his doors apart on his bump a zillion times when he painted it twice, and installed power windows on another occasion. He never ever took fuzzies (anti-rattlers) out, not even to replace them.vossy wrote:I did the removal, in this order.. But the installation (when you care about the paint, now) is much trickier...
He says with absolute certainty that glass can come in and out with the fuzzies installed/intact by rotating the window 90 degrees...rotate the window so that its bottom is at the front of the door, and once it is in the door, rotate it back into place along the channel. Fuzzies, then glass, then vent window. I imagine the rubber door runs go on first before the fuzzies.
Hope this helps!
Actually that sounds like pure genius... I’ll let you know how it goes.
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
For the sake of the board.. I will wrap this thread up.. Because there is nothing more frustrating than finding someone asked your question 5 years ago, and the thread is now dead with no answer/solution at the bottom...
So, what was suggested above by bullit74's brother is absoletely true, and is for sure the best way to install the windows... Much Easier, than what I described above. You can get the main glass in (and out, I would assume) with the window felts installed.
Order of Go, that seemed to work best, and was easiest on my new paint:
1. Install Interior and Exterior Lower Door Felts
2. Install Main Door Rubber/antirattle into the top track and down the back track.
3. Insert Main window glass (rotated 90 degrees, so bottom of window(with the track on it) is facing forward on the truck) Get it inside the door. (Make sure you pay attention to which way the groove on the lifter bracket is facing, or by paying attention to the curve in the window, so that the glass that should be facing out of the car is facing out of the car...)
4. Rotate main window glass it's correct orientation, and put the lifter arm into the window bracket
4. Finally Install Vent window Assembly, you have to kind of snake this in, because the bracket on the bottom of the channel cant pass the door channel, facing the way it needs to, so you've got to face the vent window assembly flat, get that lower bracket in the door, then rotate it back up and pivot the entire assembly to the correct orientation... (If you care about your paint, that is)
Side Note: I think you can do this last step with the vertical runner rubber/felt in the channel. I did it without, thinking it would give me more room to get the window in the two tracks... But, I don't think this is neccessary, because the vent window assembly, before it's bolted in at the bottom and top, gives you quite bit of wiggle room to get the window in the track, and then button it all up.
So, what was suggested above by bullit74's brother is absoletely true, and is for sure the best way to install the windows... Much Easier, than what I described above. You can get the main glass in (and out, I would assume) with the window felts installed.
Order of Go, that seemed to work best, and was easiest on my new paint:
1. Install Interior and Exterior Lower Door Felts
2. Install Main Door Rubber/antirattle into the top track and down the back track.
3. Insert Main window glass (rotated 90 degrees, so bottom of window(with the track on it) is facing forward on the truck) Get it inside the door. (Make sure you pay attention to which way the groove on the lifter bracket is facing, or by paying attention to the curve in the window, so that the glass that should be facing out of the car is facing out of the car...)
4. Rotate main window glass it's correct orientation, and put the lifter arm into the window bracket
4. Finally Install Vent window Assembly, you have to kind of snake this in, because the bracket on the bottom of the channel cant pass the door channel, facing the way it needs to, so you've got to face the vent window assembly flat, get that lower bracket in the door, then rotate it back up and pivot the entire assembly to the correct orientation... (If you care about your paint, that is)
Side Note: I think you can do this last step with the vertical runner rubber/felt in the channel. I did it without, thinking it would give me more room to get the window in the two tracks... But, I don't think this is neccessary, because the vent window assembly, before it's bolted in at the bottom and top, gives you quite bit of wiggle room to get the window in the track, and then button it all up.
- sargentrs
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Re: Order of Go for Reinstalling Door and Vent Windows?
Thanks, vossy! I'm saving this one for my future installation.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.