Im determined to replace these cab mounts

[sargentrs]

Yeah, pretty much. Unfortunately, the best way is to set the cab back on the frame, bolt in the rear bushings, align the cab, set the mounts, mark the holes, remove, weld and drill. There's not really any alignment marks on the bottom of the floor to set the mounts by. You can probably get close enough on the location of them just by matching up the pattern left on the bottom of the floor when you cut your old mounts off. Drill and bolt them in, take some measurements from your frame, and then mark the mounts by transferring the measurements. If your pretty good at laying things out, you can make a template using the dimensions from this drawing http://www.fordification.com/tech/images/bb70/p08.gif The location of the mounts to the bottom of the floor is pretty flexible. The critical location is the front mount holes in relation to the rear mount holes with the center line of the cab as the baseline.

[67mann]

make sure to use weld threw primer or some kind primer / undercoat inside those new mounts before you install them
And yes drill holes and spot weld scroll down on this page

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5&start=90

[jimmy828]

So I guess the answer is drill to fit? The new mounts don't have any holes for the bolts to go through the mounts. Correct?

I used the same DC mounts and IIRC i used a 3/4 bit to drill hole for bolt.I used the 3/4 so i would have play to move cab around a little for alignment.

[magic bus]

I got bogged down on the mount install. The floorboards are compromised where the cab mounts attach.

IMG_4093.JPG

To prep for the repairs I cracked out the welder and practiced on some scrap. Not getting the results I was hoping for. Burning through. Splattering. Not good

Learning as I go. My Lincoln weld pak 155 has .035 flux core wire in it. I don't currently have the kit to convert to gas

Ive been researching welding techniques and it seems I need to be using .025 solid wth the gas in order to weld auto body sheet metal?

I'm all ears for you welding experts

The kit and bottle will set me back nearly $400.

I may be better off just buying another welder that includes the kit for around $350?

This project has turned into a little more than I was hoping!

Currently no engine and no cab mounts

Wondering when I might get to drive it?

IMG_4095.JPG

[hazelnut]

Here's a tip for the new cab mounts, Seal the seam between the two layers of metal on the inside. It's the reason they rust out, Dirt gets in between them and stays wet from rain water and the bare metal rusts away. Also put some good rust proofing paint in there to help keep them from rusting again from the inside out.

From what I have heard the best welder to use for sheet metal is a 110, The 220s put out to much power and will make you blow through sheet metal faster.

I know that you already have a welder. so this may not apply. Harbor Freight has the 110's on sale a lot for $200 that are ready for gas. Can't remember what I paid for the bottle but it's $40 to have one filled.

My dad had a 72 painted the same colors. Had a 302 with a 3 on the tree. I learned how to drive in that truck. Brought back some good old memory's seeing your truck. Laid my first black mark with it, Thinking I would impress my dad who was sitting in the front yard watching me. I don't think he was very impressed. He never said a word about it but I had to carry wood by hand to the house for a month because there was something wrong with the truck when I asked about using it to get wood. Seemed to run fine when he wanted to go somewhere though. I was 12 and drove like granny in front of him after that

[Jacksdad]

Welding sheet metal with a gas set up is a lot easier. Flux core tends to run hotter making it more likely you'll blow through whatever you're repairing, and that extra heat can result in more distortion. It definitely has it's uses - it's great for thicker metal (within the limits of your machine), doesn't require as much prep before you weld, and it's much better in windy conditions, but it's messy (flux and spatter clean up) and not really suited to thinner gauge panels. It can be done, but going with solid wire and gas is far less frustrating. Maybe keep your eyes open for a used set up?

[MAK]

Make sure your metal is good and clean on both sides with all oxidation removed. It's tough to get acceptable results otherwise. The other thing I've learned is that it's really hard (for me) to not blow through even if the metal is nice and shiny, if it was already getting thin due to rust. I always try to get too close with the spot I cut out and end up taking way more time chasing around the blowouts and filling holes. Even if you get the rust pits clean by blasting or wire brushing you are probably better off cutting past that to where you have full thickness metal. I always end up finding more thin spots and than I thought I had once that metal heats up...

[magic bus]

Great story hazelnut. Glad the pic brought back the memories. That's why I posted a pic of it I know you guys love these old bumps and we all like the pictures

I have a line on My buddies gas welder I'm gonna borrow to try my hand and see how it goes. If it works out I'll acquire my own by converting mine or just buying another one.

Stay tuned. I'm still determined to get this good looking bump back in the road!

[Ranchero50]

Yeah, flux sucks for bodywork. I gassed my Lincoln 110 many moons ago (90's) for @ $100. The 80 cf bottle are expensive now ($120), I ran a 40 cf bottle for a long time and you can do a lot of welding before they run dry. .023" wire works well with an auto darkening helmet and a steady hand. You can spot / puddle weld with it if needed. I do weld some stuff with my 210 and .035" wire but it's finicky and not well suited for body panels.

[magic bus]

Ive made good progress since my last post. Bought a Hobart Handler 140 and a Gas Cylinder. Also a new auto darkening helmet which works great after I put the batteries in it! Much better results for the floor pans and the cab mounts.

Ive repaired the floorpans on both sides and replaced both the cab mounts. The 110 welder works very well. The only problem would be my inexperience in using it.

I used a combination of bolts and welding to attach the cab mounts. Im pretty much finished with that part of the project but the welder will come in handy for my 70 mustang that needs a total restoration. Lots of welding in the future.

Now that the mounts are in, I got the engine set back in. Lots of misc work to do still. And more welding on the front clip, battery tray and radiator core support.

I really appreciate all the advice and recommendations on the welding and the cab mount replacements.

What a money pit!

cab mount 10.JPG

[sargentrs]

Glad to hear you got 'em in!

[daveford72]

Cab mount looks good!