I'm finishing up a rebuild on a C6. I didn't think to check endplay on disassembly, but I figured I'd better on assembly. Before setting up a dial indicator, I figured I'd get a ball-park indication by hand. Unfortunately, I'm not getting any end play at all. The only hard part I replaced was the input shaft, which should have no impact on end play. I checked some of the thrust washers for wear, and did replace most of them. I have several selective washers, but used the washer closest to the original. Should I swap in the thinner selective washer and check endplay, or should I do a complete disassembly again? I'm 99% sure I don’t have a thrust washer or disc out of place, because the front pump dropped right in; if a thrust washer wasn't in, it wouldn't have let the pump drop in. I only want to do this once, so where do Igo from here?.
By the way, I think this is from a '72 or later,because it has a push-in modulator, if that makes a difference.
Any suggestions?
Joseph
C6 Rebuild: No End Play
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- colnago
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C6 Rebuild: No End Play
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- BobbyFord
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Re: C6 Rebuild: No End Play
I suspect something in the assembly may not be fully seated. If you are positive that the clutch packs are properly assembled and fully seated then install a thinner pump thrust washer. You want up to about .040" end play.
- colnago
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Re: C6 Rebuild: No End Play
Well, after tearing all of the subassemblies out of the case, I found that I used the wrong selective washer! So, I just had to go down in size by one, which gave me about 0.010" back. I still had to "bump" the innards, but once I did that, I got about 0.020" of play. I'm really happy with that! Smack in the middle (okay, a little below middle, but still in spec). Now I just have to bolt the rest of it together, finish my engine, and drop everything in at once. Then, when the truck doesn't move, I'll have no idea if I screwed up the tranny, or the engine!
Joseph
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- Manny
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Re: C6 Rebuild: No End Play
Props for diving into your c6. Most people are scared to death of auto's but if you keep em clean you'll be good. Also props for actually checking the end play. Most people never even bother sadly!!
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
- colnago
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Re: C6 Rebuild: No End Play
It was actually kind of fun, almost therapeutic. Everything was step-by-step. I had to be aware that the rebuild kit was for multiple variations of the C6, so not to freak out when I had extra parts. I had to buy some "surprise" parts along the way, and I decided to replace the thrust washers (which I had to purchase separately). I used the blue Haynes book, to which I give a B+. Some of the steps, I had to make educated guesses, and the book didn't really cover the valve body, but overall it was a good step-by-step book. Hopefully, I only have to do this once!
Joseph
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- Manny
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Re: C6 Rebuild: No End Play
Mine got twice because of the valve body. Valve bodies have some black magic in them i am convinced. Hope she works good for ya.colnago wrote:It was actually kind of fun, almost therapeutic. Everything was step-by-step. I had to be aware that the rebuild kit was for multiple variations of the C6, so not to freak out when I had extra parts. I had to buy some "surprise" parts along the way, and I decided to replace the thrust washers (which I had to purchase separately). I used the blue Haynes book, to which I give a B+. Some of the steps, I had to make educated guesses, and the book didn't really cover the valve body, but overall it was a good step-by-step book. Hopefully, I only have to do this once!
Joseph
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).