I am trying to decide what exactly needs to be dynomatted(or product like that) or use the jute under carpet. My first thought would be to cover the entire floor, firewall, and half way up the back of the cab plus under the head liner. But that stuff can get expensive. Just trying to figure out what is necessary.
Barry
What did you Dynomat and Why?
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
According to Dynamat and others, at least 80 percent coverage is necessary to achieve appreciable noise attenuation.
I used that principle to apply a leftover box of Dynamat and some Hushmat in the door shells and the floor pans. I left the firewall pad in place and still have the in-cab tank. The roof will also get lined when the roof rail rust is repaired and the cab's back wall done when the rear mount tank is installed. Still, the noise has already decreased.
Btw, I ordered Summit's supposedly house branded liner... what arrived was a box of Hushmat. It's comparable to Dynamat and costs much less for the given area. Other brands include FatMat and BoomMat.. Same in concept but what generally differs between brands is the thickness.
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Carpet provides a modicum of attenuation....
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I used that principle to apply a leftover box of Dynamat and some Hushmat in the door shells and the floor pans. I left the firewall pad in place and still have the in-cab tank. The roof will also get lined when the roof rail rust is repaired and the cab's back wall done when the rear mount tank is installed. Still, the noise has already decreased.
Btw, I ordered Summit's supposedly house branded liner... what arrived was a box of Hushmat. It's comparable to Dynamat and costs much less for the given area. Other brands include FatMat and BoomMat.. Same in concept but what generally differs between brands is the thickness.


Carpet provides a modicum of attenuation....

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- sargentrs
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
I used Lowe's Peel 'n Seal. Heckuva lot cheaper than all of them. Topped it with EZ Cool insulation. https://fordification.com/forum/viewtop ... &start=450
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1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- Canonman67
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
I'll second Sargentrs on the peel and seal and EZ Cool. Way easier on the wallet than Dynamat and the like.
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
I installed the Frost King purchased from home improvement store. It also is a peel and stick. I like the way it helps lowers the "tin can " sound when shutting the doors. I stuck that stuff anywhere that would not be seen, floor.inside doors.back of door panels, roof, behind fuel tank, and firewall.
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
Deaden anything the sounds like a drum when you hit it with your knuckle or middle finger. Floors, roof and door skin are high on the list. I used black roofing tar and it took a long time to set up and dry. I also did the poor boys lizard skin sprayed everywhere and I think it helped with the temps but not so much the noise.
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
I Googled poor boys lizard skin and just got the freak show so I have to ask, what is it?Ranchero50 wrote: I also did the poor boys lizard skin sprayed everywhere and I think it helped with the temps but not so much the noise.
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Re: What did you Dynomat and Why?
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.