1970 F100 - Kids first truck

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dang dude, moving right along! wish my dad would give me a truck like that... oh well i can do it for my son, although by the time he's 18 (and probably not getting the truck till he's 20+) he'll have to go over it again.

i was wondering about the tie rods you showed, and said that it was what you needed for power steering conversion? I seem to remember that the PS drop link is different, but are the tie rods all different?

i just ordered tie rods and don't remember spec'ing ps or manual.... hope they fit, and work with the PS conversion when i get around to that.

Sorry,
I haven't had time to get on for a while. The tie rods are the same, I just needed them so I had a set to clean up and paint while keeping the truck drivable.
The Pitman arms are different for each gear box, so use the one for the gear box you are installing (they usually only fit the one they are intended for).

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Time to do the disk brake conversion.
I have a lift available to me so I use it when I can but I removed the donor front end in the junkyard over the course of two lunch breaks with nothing but hand tools and a piece of exhaust pipe I found in the yard.
First thing off of course is the tires.

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Next, I remove the cotter pin from the radius arm castle nut.

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The nut is 1-1/8. Here I am using a socket and very long ½ inch ratchet.

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The ratchet wrench is my preferred method in the junkyard because of clearance and weight but lacks the leverage needed and must be used with a cheater more often than not.

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The ratchet requires some clearance to use, so it is necessary to jack up the spindle while removing the nut. Once the nut is removed take off the washer and rear rubber piece.

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Next, I removed the pitman arm. I am doing a power steering conversion as well, so the pitman arm will be different, if you are just converting the brakes then remove the tie rod and drag link at the spindles and leave them hanging in the vehicle.

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The nut is 1-3/16 torqued to 170-230 ft-lbs.

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With the nut removed turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (bottom of pitman arm to passenger side of truck) and install the pitman arm puller over the middle of the pitman arm. Move it up to the output shaft where you will have to turn it at a bit of an angle in order to clear the frame and center it on the shaft. If you don’t have this tool, one can be borrowed from most auto parts stores for little to no cost. Tighten the forcing screw as much as you can without bending the arms, most of the time the pitman arm will break loose but I have, on occasion, broken the tool before separation.

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Give the arm a couple good hits with a hammer then tighten the nut some more, usually this is enough, if not, repeat.

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Now I separate the break hose from the line and pull out the clip that holds it in the frame tab.

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Next I remove the two bolts and strap that retain the top of the spring in the spring bucket.

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Then I remove the axle pivot bolt.

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At this point the only thing holding the driver side assembly in the vehicle is the shock absorber.

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Now I do all the same stuff on the passenger side. The entire front end is now hanging from the shocks.
Lower the vehicle until the drums are resting on the ground and then remove the top nut from the shocks.

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Attach a ratchet strap or chain to the front of each spindle/spring/axle assembly and either pull (truck) or ratchet (ground anchor/tree) the assemblies forward to free them from the radius arm pivot points.

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Raise the truck and the front suspension should now be sitting on the ground.

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Position one of the new assemblies on the ground under the vehicle and lower the vehicle while aligning the end coil of the spring with the bulge in the spring pocket.

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Attach the spring retention strap with the two bolts and raise the vehicle.

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The shocks are not installed at this time because they can make it difficult to move everything around in order to line things up.

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Attach a friction strap or turnbuckle to the front of the axle/spring (ARROW). A ratchet strap can be used but it is harder to control for what is going to happen next. I attach my friction strap to the bumper when I can or to the transport tie down point in the frame just behind the bumper (the angled oval/race track shaped hole).
Make sure that the washer and front rubber are installed on the radius arm. Pull the assembly forward until the end of the radius arm can clear the hole in the pivot point. Align the radius arm with the hole and let out on the friction strap while inserting the arm into the hole.
This procedure sounds a lot easier than it is. I did and usually do this stuff on my own but if you have someone available to help, this is defiantly the part to let them help with. You will be tempted to use a jack or other device to raise the spindle/axle or the end of the radius arm, the spring is unpredictable at this point and can slip out at weird angles to cause all kinds of havoc. Just line up the radius arm by hand and keep your fingers out of any pinch points while your helper lets out the tension on the strap.

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Remove the strap.
Next I raise the pivot end of the axle into position and push a line-up bar into the hole, it will probably not go all the way through right now.

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Now I install a ratchet strap between the radius arm window and the rear spring shackle on the opposite side of the truck and tighten it up just enough to snug up the radius arm bushing.
Next I jack up the spindle until I have enough clearance to install the rear rubber and washer onto the radius arm and tighten the nut.

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Now I continue to raise the jack (if needed – also paying attention to the frame/lift arm contact area) in order to line up the hole in the axle pivot bushing and install the bolt.

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All I have to do now is install the shock and take off the strap and jack. Oh yea, I need to install the other side.

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I ran out of time to do the power steering install so the same pitman arm goes back in (it is facing to the left now because I tightened the nut).

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New ball joint boots are available at the auto parts store for a few bucks apiece so I picked up one for each ball joint. The rubber collar that goes between the drag link and tie rod is a little harder to find so I used the better of the two instead of ordering one.

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First thing in is the drag link, attached to the passenger spindle with a new cotter pin, then to the pitman arm.

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Next I put the tie rod ends together with the new adjuster and installed it with the short end at the drag link and the long end at the driver side spindle.