1969 F100 CV Swap Measurement Question

[diznasty]

Hey all,

I've began my swap after compiling parts for the past several months. I've got my measurements somewhat laid out. I'm the, measure 1000 times and cut once, kinda guy. Does anyone happen to remember what their measurements were like? I found some on another thread but I just wondered if there are any other references. Currently I will keep the 114.8 wheelbase but its hard to double check at this point. I want to pre-drill my holes before i cut the oem crossmember so I can bolt it back into place incase the frame happens to shift.

On the pictures below the black line is my axle centerline and the 4" offset is where the center of the rear CV bolt hole will line up to the motor mount.

[elgemcdlf]

Hey all...On the pictures below the black line is my axle centerline and the 4" offset is where the center of the rear CV bolt hole will line up to the motor mount.

Your reference with the motor mount means nothing as each engine used different supports or locations. With my 302 the passenger side mount lined up about like you show but the drivers side had no interference at all. As long as you have the axle centerline in place on each rail you should be good to go. After you have the crossmember in place you can determine what is the best route for you in regards to motor mounts. Originally I modified the truck mounts but I knew I was going back in with a 460. When it came time for that swap all new mounts were fabbed that bolt directly to the original CV mount holes.

This is an easy swap. Don't let yourself over think it but at the same time pay attention to what you are doing. The motor mounts & steering shaft will work themselves out after you have the crossmember in place.

[diznasty]

Right, I think it was your thread where I saw the modified oem mounts so I just wanted to see where mine line up based on my current layout. Looks to be about the same but its purely visual at best. Guess its time to record the numbers again and start drilling.

[elgemcdlf]

I drove myself crazy measuring & remeasuring before I drilled the first hole. No matter how many times I measured I always came back to the same place. I didn't start feeling better until I had the IFS in place & could see it in relation to the fenders.

[diznasty]

Whats drivng me crazy is trying to find the centerline for the CV crossmember... I really cant tell if the plastic locating pilots are the centerline or not. I may just do the same as you and line it up and put the front clip back on to see how it looks.

[elgemcdlf]

Whats drivng me crazy is trying to find the centerline for the CV crossmember... I really cant tell if the plastic locating pilots are the centerline or not. I may just do the same as you and line it up and put the front clip back on to see how it looks.

Seems like I remember reading someone determined they are the centerline. The important part is getting installed centered right to left & straight. You should be able to eyeball the centerline well enough that it will be so close you would never notice if you are a tad forward or back from the actual point.

[diznasty]

Some progress pics

[diznasty]

top holes marked and pre-drilled

[elgemcdlf]

Looks good. No turning back now

[diznasty]

anyone have a good tip for figuring out if the CV is square to the frame? I tried checking from the top of the shock towers to the radiator mounting holes and it says im 1/2" out of square. I think those are adjustable so im not sure if it could be adjusted from its former life or not.

[elgemcdlf]

I measured from the front edge of the crossmember to the front of the frame rail on each side

[HotBrandy347]

I would measure from the "locating pins" on the CV crossmember to the front of each frame horn diagonally. I too am in the process of doing the CV swap and I consulted my frame shop and that is what they told me. They also recommended checking the frame horns for alignment going from the cab mounts diagonally to the front of each frame horn as some of these truck (including mine) were tweaked from accidents, pulling others or getting pulled out etc. Be sure to have the entire frame level when performing these checks. Hope that helps.

[tylerb43]

First, awesome progress so far and thanks for sharing your project!

Second, I'm not sure if I would square anything to the frame horns or radiator support holes, it's too easy for them to get pushed around over the decades. (as HotBrandy says) Measure back if you can. Maybe to the bolts or rivets holding on the front cab mount bracket. Better yet, jack up the front of the cab and use the center of those holes themselves.

I made this really quick to help myself check the front half of my frame. The two holes on the RH side are the front cab mount locations, two on the LH side of the graphic are the radiator support holes. Sorry it's not labeled very well, I drew it for my own use, but I thought it may be helpful to you at the moment.

[diznasty]

Well i ended up making a functional gage to help. Basically I have 2.75" exhaust tubing locating off the front hubs to a 1" DIA bar stock in the back as a pin. I align this with the center of the rear drums. Built it pretty rigid but it still has some flex but it is minimal. Basically ensures both sides match. As suspected the passenger side was dead-nuts on. The drivers side, which is the side I suspected had sprung out, is off by approx. 1/2 inch.

[diznasty]

another shot.