is there any way a 300 could slip cam timing without completely eating the timing set?
If memory serves me correctly the 300 had a plastic gear, (or at least one of them). What happens when you bring #1 up to TDC and then drop the dizzy in? Does it line up with #1 on the cap?
115,115,130,130,145,120.
I don't think your compression is off enough to cause any significant difference. If memory serves me right, if the cylinders are within 10% it should run ok. Maybe Robert of Jamie will pipe in here on this?
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
yea, the dizzy lines up with number one and the balancer is dead on. and either way you slice it, i'm a little outside of 10% off on my compression numbers. i tried a leakdown test and number 1 was pressurizing the crank case pretty decently so i think i'm having ring issues. either when the PO rebuild the motor he bored it without using oversized pistons or weak rings? the last motor i had ran decent and half of the compression rings were broken!
re-adjusted the valves today and it seemed to help a little but i haven't tired backing down the timing again. still feels like it's not running up to snuff. i really wish i could figure out what component is bad. i've found a 302 out of a 92 mustang that has around 100k on it but i think has been rebuild recently and i'm thinking about making the jump. i am so tired of fighting this engine for almost 2 years now.
killakobra wrote:i've found a 302 and i'm thinking about making the jump.
WAIT A MINUTE!!
Are you gonna let a little 300 I6 get the better of you?
Have you thought about dropping in a new set of lifters?? Maybe you have some that are frozen.
3 sets of lifters, tried a different head, 4 different distributors, 4 sets of spark plugs, 2 sets of wires, 10 intake gaskets(different reasons why) valves are adjusted correctly, no ring ledge and still has crosshatching. i've replaced damn near everything and for almost 2 years i can't get it to run right. it's gonna cost $500 or more to build a 300 the way i want one and i can buy a full roller 302 and install if for around $650. i can't afford to keep pouring money into this engine. in the future i may put a 300 back in but for now it's not economical. that and i'm getting like 15-16 mpg instead of the 20 i'm used to.
The 302 wont give you more than 15-16. Did you put in the new proportioning valve when you did your front discs?
The current issue Classic Trucks (or Custom Classic Trucks..) has the good write up on installing front discs. Sounded nice, but expensive.
Think hard before you abandon your six, there's got to be a simple explanation.
I dont know anything about the Duraspark II. But I'd look into that side of it.
My friend gets between 17 and 20 in his mustang that's the same weight and same final gear ratio and he drives it like a mustang should be driven. i've had 2 different duraspark boxes on it too. i have literally changed most of the bolt ons with no luck. and when i swapped in the new engine i used all the stuff off the last one that i knew worked and it still didn't run right. Today i hauled 2 1500 pound loads of rock and the truck was really having a hard time pulling it compaired to when i hauled more than that in gravel a couple months back so i know it's going down hill. i'm having to run 22 degrees timing just to keep it running and the oil pressure fluctuates between runnings. i can't really afford to mess around too much longer.
I grabbed the prop valve from the donor truck but i didn't install it because the lines enter different than the stock ones and i have all stainless lines. I'm not about to toss those. they work pretty good without it but i'm gonna buy an inline adjustable valve to go in the like to the back.
Read the magazine writeup on installing front discs on a 70 F100. Its pretty good, its in the current issue.
Kieth has his article on here too which Im sure youve already read.
I noticed you dont have any heat going to the intake on your Offy C intake. Do you need the plate that bolts onto the bottom of the plenum? Ive got an extra one I fabricated out of 1/2" aluminum, just needs the fittings installed.
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yea i read the tutorial posted on here. i grabbed a set of 74 spindles and bought all new rubber hoses, calibers, pads, and rotors.
I never had any problems without having a heated manifold on the last engine i had in the truck. This engine get the manifold nice and hot when it's warmed up and it still doesn't help. It's just getting worn out. i was having problems maintaining 70 on the freeway yesterday. i just can't stomach throwing a dime more into this engine.
Yeah I can see how it would be aggrivating as hell to have the truck running crappy after all the work and money youve put in it. It should be running NICE. Thats why Im thinking its something simple. How can it be worn? Your saying you can still see cross hatching on your cylinders.
Are your front brakes still dragging? I would think they could be if you didnt put in a proportioning valve when you did them
Whats bogging it down? Have you posted on http://fordsix.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2
Im thinking putting the hot water to your Offy plenum might make a big difference.
it runs like crap even when the engine is up to temp. i can't even hold onto the manifold for the most part at that point. the only other thing i can think of is that my oil pump or some of the passages are restricted because a couple rockers don't get as much oil as the rest and the oil pressure sometimes takes a bit to come up. 30 seconds some mornings. problem is i have to pull the engine to replace it and i'm not putting that motor back in without at least a rering kit.
So could the intake be getting so F-ing hot that it is just vaporizing the fuel flow?
Just put a couple of the EFI manifolds on it. Your headers has been your big headache.
killakobra wrote:yea, the dizzy lines up with number one and the balancer is dead on. and either way you slice it, i'm a little outside of 10% off on my compression numbers. i tried a leakdown test and number 1 was pressurizing the crank case pretty decently so i think i'm having ring issues. either when the PO rebuild the motor he bored it without using oversized pistons or weak rings? the last motor i had ran decent and half of the compression rings were broken!
Just for the record just because the distributor drops in at #1 & the crank shows #1 means nothing. The crank will hit #1 twice per single revolution of the distributor. Second if the cam & crank are out of time your distributor & crank will be out of time. I think maybe you are over attacking this. Did it run ok and then start running downhill or has it always been poor since you put it in?
