Cheaper seal for front Dana 44 closed knuckle

[Riverotter32]

If anyone is interested here is a cheaper seal for the front Dana 44 - small knuckle - 8 bolt. $7.95 - no bolts with it though. This is a Omix-Ada reproduction part but overall decent.

http://www.xtremeterrain.com/steeringkn ... 41-71.aspx

I have not tore into the axle just yet. Just waiting on a little more funds for the king pin bearings.

Looks like the 41-71 CJ's used the Dana 25 & 27 closed knuckle and the parts are interchangeable with the Dana 44 including the bearings and cups.
I still have a bearing from my 1948 CJ2 and it is a 11590 which by some auto parts sites is listed as useable on the f250.

At the same time I bought the king pin bearing shims at $5.00. I can not vouch that the shims will work just yet but they look to line up.


http://www.xtremeterrain.com/dana25and2 ... eepcj.aspx

If anyone has a cheap source for the top Drivers Side Upper King Pin Trapezoid Knuckle Shims I would be grateful.
There is a good source but the shipping is twice the price for one shim that is as thin as a piece of paper.

Pic below is the seal installed. I needed to get the gear oil rolling around inside to knock the gunk around.

Thanks,
Ivan

[Riverotter32]

Update for anyone interested.

The cheap knuckle seals have held up well holding the 80/90w gear oil in.

Dana 25 / 27 kingpin bearings will work in the 8 bolt closed knuckles

Dana 25 / 27 kingpin bearing shims will work also.

Mine had a destroyed bottom kingpin bearing (pic below) but luckily I had an old 1948 CJ2 kingpin bearing lying around. Bearing - 11590 Race - 11520
Someone had removed the bottom bearing shims to correct the tire lean and shake but left the top trapazoid shims in.
Not a good idea to use without changing the race also but the apartment complex would freak if the truck was up on blocks for a week.

I found a cheaper kingpin bearing at $3.95 but granted it is not Timken quality. Decided to give it a shot seeing as I was ordering a new fuel pump and voltage regulator.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AXT-11590/

Ivan

[2500ak]

My 71 Ford has been seeping a small amount oil from that back area around the knuckle. I know very little about these axles, I had been thinking it was an internal seal that held the oil in. How hard is it to replace that outer seal?

[Riverotter32]

It is pretty easy. The only frustrating part is trying to get the lip to seal into the groove. It usually takes me a few times of tightening the bolts just a little and working the seal around until it seats in.
It should be easier inside of a shop; I work off a milk crate in front of the apartment garage.
Ivan

[2500ak]

Do you have to take the spindle off to get the seal on? Also the links to the parts no longer work, do you have the part numbers of the ones you got?

[Riverotter32]

You can change it with the knuckle attached. Just be sure the cut in the rubber gasket is between the metal inside and keep the cut to the top after the installation.

It does look like they quit selling it. Here is the one kit from Omix-Ada that has a number for both sides. I could not find the single side kit anymore.

http://www.omix-ada.com/jeep-parts/prod ... mNo=998445


PartNo: 998445
Click Here for More Info
STEERING KNUCKLE SEAL KIT
18026.08

Ivan

[2500ak]

Excellent, I've ordered the seal kit. Thanks for that, I was already looking around for a replacement axle thinking I'd have to pull the thing all apart to stop that slow leak.

How hard is it to replace the kingpin bearing? For that price it might be worth doing if it isn't too much trouble to swap out. There's a good possibility mine are still original.

[Riverotter32]

They are pretty easy and can be done with the locking hubs on and axles in place.
Be sure to support the ball joint through the ball joint hole with some strong cord or wire so as not to damage the axle and brake lines.
I just replaced all four of the bearings on the steering on sunday. I should have replaced the races also but they did not have those in stock.
Good thing I did replace them seeing as the passenger side had damaged ones also. It now turns really smoothly even with a manual steering box.
The tough part was seperating the large top steering arm on the drivers side that has cone washers.

There was a post on here somewhere about using a larger size socket and some threaded rod and nuts to remove the races very easily. Easier to turn a wrench than to "whack" it with a hammer.

Ivan

[2500ak]

So in order to get the kingpin bearings out I have to take the knuckle off, but because it's heavy if it isn't supported it could slip and damage the break lines or the axle shaft?

Or does the knuckle stay on, and the bearing can be taken out through the hole when you take the cap off?