More done on the 72'...

[averagef250]

You can spread the frame apart. Porta power jack or even a hi-lift will work great. Jack it apart an inch or so and slip it in there.

[zakt]

might take more than an inch trying to get it in back by the shackles as it widens and that seem 1" wider over the crossmember area ....then another crossmember back there so cant jackit in the back. Only if the front frame horns were the same height as the crossmember area, but that would be to simple

[zakt]

got the 2wd crossmember out and just have to clean out the frame rail 2wd pieces... drilled one engine mount bolt hole and will be ready to put the side pieces in shortly.

[Manny]

Man what alot of work but looks sharp will be worth it when it's finished.

[Ranchero50]

Wow, that's a lot of work grafting the frames together like that.

Told you those emblems were going to be a bear to mill and expensive too. Are you still going to get them?

Jamie

[zakt]

tons of work couldnt bring myself to cut the frame rails probably wont get the billet emblems (those would be nice though) but alittle to much $$

[smokey3215]

keep up the good work.

[Manny]

tons of work couldnt bring myself to cut the frame rails probably wont get the billet emblems (those would be nice though) but alittle to much $$

Hey your are going on your own style that is fine to not cut the frame rails so go for what you want. Yeah that is a shame about the billet emblems they are sure pretty and would be lovely to polish, and drool on...

[zakt]

almost moved to san diego now no room and truck is out side....towed the truck about 13hrs with the tow bar.

[smokey3215]

i feel your pain on no room i have to work on mine outside.

[basketcase0302]

That's along haul Todd, wondered where you'd been. Gotta' go where the work/money is.

[zakt]

Got the motor and 69 cab finally down to san diego and going to start pulling the replacement panels off the 69 for the 72 rust repair... also had to put the 72 up on my trailer no room for both.

[zakt]

Started checking out the depth of the rust issue today on the crew... Just some quick questions about the panels, I assume remove spot welds and seperate is there sealer between also?? If so how is that put back together, is sealer after you re-weld then?

scrape and sanded alittle on the metal and looked good so the black painted piece will stay on...all out side of that will be removed. Also looks like the top cowl is rusted through in spots also.... will pull the side piece off as one, * I hope * off the crew and off the donor and sand blast it inside and out. In the end will have the cowl off to swap and por 15 the whole inside in there before the new cowl goes on.

[Ranchero50]

Depending on the damaged area and what you plan to do about it I usually use a torch to check for hidden rust through. Just make an oxidizing flame and run it across your suspected rusted areas and wher it's too thin the rust will flash melt.

If you you plan on removing panels, torch sections of the panel to be removed away to expose all the spot welds and ether drill them out or use an air chisel to seperate the layers. Hammer and dolly the flanged back to shape. The cowl is a huge job and it might be simpler to replace everything from the floor to 'A' pillar on one shot.

Jamie

[mybros71]

I've never used the torch to find rust, that's awesome. As far as the spot welds, I've alwaws used a Blair spot weld cutter with great success. Like this one:
http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_ ... tters.html
If you are careful and use a lot of lube, the cutter qill last a very long time. You can pick them up at any good auto body paint supply house.

Tony