1967 stepside daily driver.

[killakobra]

found a 74 extended cab today at a junkyard and bought the spindles and backing plates along with all of the mounting hardware for $100. sounded a little steep but i needed them now. the place looks like it may be a treasure trove for bumps and dents. they have a whole row left and right with pretty much just those to body styles. probably 80 trucks in all. The place is called Vick's classic auto parts and cars. The address is 815 Rutherfordton hwy Chesnee S.C. I have rotors, calipers, brake hoses, and pads coming in This morning and i hope to have it all together by lunch if my right side spindle comes off as easy as the left.

[killakobra]

They are in and they work great. i have yet to use a proportioning valve and i haven't done any real hard stops so i don't know how crucial it is. and talk about cutting it close. i have 1/4 inch clearance between the caliper and the wheel.

[killakobra]

had the brakes drag a bit the other day and rotors have a slight blueing on them right now. The truck started to bog and then i could smell pads. it fixed itself when i lifted up on the brake pedal so i think it may be a bad master cylinder. As far as the blueing goes i've read that it's normal in the bedding processes due to high initial temps and the crosshatching on the new rotors. it still stops great and there is no pulsation.

[killakobra]

why of why does my motor want 22 degrees of time? and no the balancer hasn't slipped. verified by looking at piston tdc.

[elgemcdlf]

Sounds like you are off a tooth on the distributor or timing chain.

[killakobra]

checked with a timing light to verify that i'm indeed at 22 degrees and i have timing gears.

[elgemcdlf]

Just because you have gears doesn't mean you can't be off a tooth. 22 degrees sounds way too familiar to me. Just can't remember why. Might be the distance of a tooth on a distributor. Is this causing a problem? I have seen engines require up to 35 degrees but they are usually pretty well modified.

[killakobra]

It just seems odd that it need 22 degrees all of a sudden. a couple weeks ago it would bach at anything more than 12 in a nasty way. not if i'm under 16 it will barely run.

[elgemcdlf]

It just seems odd that it need 22 degrees all of a sudden. a couple weeks ago it would bach at anything more than 12 in a nasty way. not if i'm under 16 it will barely run.

Points or electronic ignition?

[killakobra]

electronic. Duraspark 2 with a stock CDI coil.

[sargentrs]

I had a similar issue with 302 when I swapped to Duraspark. I had broken an advance spring in my points distributor without realizing and she ran like crap so swapped in the Duraspark. I was unable to get it running well at, what I considered, the "correct" timing. It was only after I said to heck with the initial timing and set it for 35* max timing at 2500 rpm and she ran like a top at all speeds and idle. The initial then fell in at .... wait for it..... 22 degrees! I couldn't accept it so fiddled with it for another 2 hours and came right back to the 22* initial and 35* at 2500 rpm setting. Set the timing at max and let the initial fall where it wants to.

[elgemcdlf]

Sounds like it may be the answer as long as it runs ok. A running engine is fuel, compression & spark at the correct time. What that time is really is irrelevant as long as she runs well.

[killakobra]

it only worries me because it happened all of a sudden. i ordered a new dizzy and it'll be in tomorrow morning. i think the mech advance may have some damage to it.

[killakobra]

well, the new dizzy works better but it doesn't solve the 22 degree problem. is there any way a 300 could slip cam timing without completely eating the timing set? it's gear to gear and there are only 2 so i figured if it jumped a tooth it would strip the gears.

[killakobra]

ok, i got a hold of a screw in compression test today and did some testing. here are the numbers starting with number 1. 115,115,130,130,145,120.